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Adam Fertig

Manual transmission sloppy shifting? Try a new shifter seat!

shifter

The shifter seat is located at the base of the transmission at the very end of the shifter.  Unscrew your shift knobs too. You will need to remove all the trim parts to access the shifter boot.  There are several bolts holding down the 2 shift boots to the body, remove those and pull the shift boot up and out of the way.  You will see the shifter base plate and the second shift boot:

 

Pull up on the shifter boot to expose the lock ring.  You will see two flat spots.  Push down hard on these, one hand on each flat spot. 

 

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Adam Fertig

Swapping a Toyota V6 for a Chevy V8 using Advance Adapters Bellhousing

Engine on Hoist

Using the Th350 would give me a little more shock protection on the driveline.  The automatic transmission will help cushion driveline shock.  And, I know it would hold up to V8 power.  But the gear ratios are pretty high, and the transfer case is huge.  Using the R150F would give me about twice as low of a gear ratio, and a more enjoyable driving experience with the 5 speed.  Plus my drivelines would bolt right up.  Cons would be buying a bell-housing adapter, and possible strength issues.  But the R-series transmission are used in Supras pushing 600hp and they hold up, so I'm not too worried.

First thing to do, of course, would be to pull the engine.  To make this easier for my situation, I decided to remove the front core support.  My truck is parked in my garage, which has a low ceiling and garage door.  I wouldn't be able to get the cherry picker high enough to clear the core support and not hit the garage door.   Plus, my core support was bent from a previous encounter with a tree.

After spending a lot of time drilling spot welds in order to remove the core support, I removed the engine.

With the engine out of the way, I prepped the engine bay for the V8.  I removed all the parts from the V6 that I would no longer need.  The only wires left were oil sender, coolant temp sender, tach wire, fuel lines, clutch lines, starter solenoid wire, and a few wires going back to the transmission (reverse indicator, 4wd indicator, and speed-o cable).  I also decided to paint the bay flat black since sometime down the road I will paint the entire truck flat black.

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Andrew Zook

Converting FJ-40 front drums to disk with minitruck parts


 

I chose to use Toyota pickup (minitruck) parts to swap onto the front axle to replace the original drum brakes.

 

'81 through '85 Minitruck Parts list (Basically everything from the knuckle out):

  • Steering knuckle housing
  • Spindle
  • Wheel hub/bearings
  • Steering arms
  • Brake backing plate
  • Kingpin bearings
  • Knuckle seal kit
  • Inner axle seal
  • Birfield joint
  • Locking hub
  • Nuts, Bolts, Washers, Cone washers, wheel studs
  • Calipers and pads from a V6 minitruck
  • (optional) Master cylinder from V6
  • (optional) Brake booster

 

Other parts:

 

Special tools needed:

  • Angle grinder
  • Toyota SST for setting knuckle preload
  • Torque wrench
  • Brake line flare tool (for installing proportioning valve

 

 

Procedure:

    1. Drain the oil in the front axle, jack the truck up, put the axle on jack stands, and remove the wheels.
    2. Remove the old parts. Cut the brake line and remove the tie rod and then remove the face of the locking hub (or drive plate) and remove the snap ring on the axle shaft.
    3. The easiest way to get everything apart is to loosen the nuts on the steering arm and bottom plates which should allow you to pull the entire old knuckle/brake/wheel hub assembly as one piece.
    4. Next, clean up the end of the housing using shop towels and brake cleaner and remove the inner axle seal (rides around the axle shaft at the end of the housing). You may also want to take a wire wheel to the outside of the "ball" to remove any rust.

    5. Next, because we are using birfields from a minitruck, we must grind on the housing to get the larger/stronger birfield to fit. You will need to grind a little off of the top and bottom directly to the outside of the kingpin hole. Test fit the birfield periodically to check your progress. Keep in mind that you need to go about 0.040" over to compensate for how much the ball compresses when the knuckle is torqued down.

  1. Drive out the top and bottom kingpin bearing races with a brass punch. Install the new races.
  2. Calculate knuckle shim thickness and set bearing preload using Toyota SST.
  3. Install knuckle and torque to spec. Check knuckle bearing preload with fish scale. Install wiper seals on back of knuckle. Install inner axle seal
  4. Install spindle, hub/rotor assembly.
  5. Install locking hub and caliper.
  6. I chose to do away with the backing plate for the rotor along with the little brake line bracket with the short section of hard line. To remove the backing plate you must keep the inside portion of it to keep the spacing of the components correct.


  7. I used Napa #38878 for my flexible brake lines. I probably wouldn't do it the same way again. I would keep the short piece of hard line from the
    caliper and the bracket on the backing plate so that the brake line is actually "locked" from turning in the caliper. My brake line setup is commonly used without problems, but it seems a little hoaky because of this.
  8. Install the proportioning valve on the line that goes to the rear brakes. You will need to get the fittings and flare the tubing to install it. I chose to install it right next to / under the booster. I bought a short section of already flared tubing with fittings at AutoZone so that I would only have to flare one end.

  9. Wheel selection is important with the V6 calipers. You will need a wheel that has nothing protruding out the back (such as an aluminum wheel, or a wagon wheel without a lip stamped out the back).

 

 

Optional: V6 master and minitruck booster

I chose to use a booster that I had laying around. It is from an '89 4 cylinder 4runner. The master cylinder is from a '95 4runner with a V6. Everything bolted right up and took only minor adjustment to get correct. The brake lines even ended up in the right place on the MC without bending the lines!

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John Stewart

Toyota Exhaust Manifold Cracking - Important Updated Information


IMPORTANT UPDATE (Apr 30, 2008)

To the end of the LC Engineering 3RZ header review (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/reviews/lce_header/), add:

UPDATE 4/30/2008:

"Our part number for the 3RZ header has changed on that header. It is no longer PN 14-1731, it is now PN 1041054."

The corrected part number provided by:
Scott Kelly
Marketing Dept.
LC Engineering"

============================================================================

To the end of the LC Engineering turbo header review (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/turboheader/), please add:

UPDATE 4/30/2008:

"In response to this review and other customer feedback, we have re-designed this header several times since this review was first published, and we have eliminated the problems that were present in the early designs, like the poor welds and the wastegate location/design.

The current design and build quality of this header are much improved over the initial release. If you could update your site with that information that would be great."

Scott Kelly
Marketing Dept.
LC Engineering"
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staff_user

Directory Links to Archive Articles

Technical Article Archive
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