Do these exist? Where can i get them if so?

Seems like a better option than a ball joint flip.

I have found them for gen 3, but thats it.

So I could use some advice.

I've got an 89 4Runner with 22RE. Original short block, pushing about 400K. Doesn't smoke, does leak some oil, but not too bad, about 1/2 quart between changes (3,000 miles). She's got an 'Enginebuilder' head and cam, replaced about 50,000 miles ago when my old head burned a valve. A few months ago I was idling the truck at a drive through and noticed it was getting HOT, so I pulled out and drove around the parking lot until she cooled back down. Replaced defective fan clutch, and it's been good since (4,700 miles).

Truck was running pretty good up until about two weeks ago, when all of the sudden it stumbles a bit as I slowed to make a turn. Then I noticed a LOT of white smoke. Temperature was normal. I was less than a mile from home so I drove it on and parked it. Turned it over by hand the next day and it had coolant in the rear cylinder.

I've pulled the head, and the gasket came apart. Pictures are attached.

Now for the question: Should I just check the head and block for 'flat', get a new gasket and put 'er back together? Should I get a machine shop to deck the head? Should I just go for the full monty and rebuild the entire engine?

I lean toward waiting on the full rebuild until the weather cools down and my daughter and I don't need an 'adventure' vehicle. Just today we couldn't get to a potential swimming hole in my Nissan Altima - which already looked mighty funny with a canoe on it.

Thanks in advance!

I used the bad-manually-extended ISC in the throttle body and connected the new-good one to the harness hanging outside. I could feel the stepper motor vibrating in response to RPM changes, but the pintle moved no more than 1/16" up and down.

For the meantime, I am running the harness unplugged with the closed-off/extended ISC, until I get my hands on a known-good ECU to test.

I actually tried purchasing those fancy FIAV delete plates, but my throttle body looks different:

I ended up sealing one of the FIAV ports with JB-Weld instead, and keeping the ISC port open. I was really hoping that would be the end of it, but it looks like the ISC is not cooperating for some reason.



So since my last posting, I had the throttle body rebuilt (TPS and ISC tested to spec), and the ECU checked out by an ECU shop (they could not find any problems). My idle is still high ~2800 with temp gauge in the middle after all this high idling. Before I shut off the engine, I unplugged the ISC harness to "capture" the state of the ISC, shut off the engine, removed the ISC and saw the pintle is not extended at all, as if the engine was cold. So it's either the stepper motor isn't working right (but specced OK??), or the engine thinks it's cold?? The ISC vibrates when the key is switched on (also the harness to the ECU tested around 0.1 ohm resistance for all wires, so it looks like the ECU can talk to the ISC no problem).


Old Bad ISC, manually extended


New tested-good ISC, unplugged harness while warm engine running

Tomorrow I am planning to install the old ISC (manually extended) into the throttle body, and connect the harness to the tested-good ISC motor hanging free outside the throttle body, so I can see if it does anything at all when I rev the engine.

Not sure what else this could be, I am thinking maybe test with a known good ECU would be the last final step?

Hmm. This might be like our 10th annual event. Regardless.. This year it will be November 11-13. Gates open to set up camp at The F. I. R. M. in Starke, but no wheeling on Friday.. Saturday's opening ceremony happens at 0900hrs. For ticket prices, go to Krawl'n for the Fallen website, we will once again be piggybacking on this event to have access to this venue.

We are around, kind of don't get out much. I have essentially retired but busier than ever. Building another airplane, the Pajero is coming along and well working on one of my boat projects as well. But yes, you are welcome to hang around, we have a good fiber-optic connection out here in the woods.

Well, well, what a fun scroll through seven pages that was! I'm still out here as well. A lot less wrenching and stuff for too long. My 00 that went down seven years ago is still in the drive waiting to be put back together. At the same time, I couldn't wait to get back into a rig. My 06 G35 6MT sedan that I picked up as "temporary" DD now has 175k on it. So, I found a 1.1 owner 99 Winter Package in CA and had it shipped to CLE. I do have an Endeavor 3.8 on the stand in the garage that was to go into the 00. Not sure which one it will land in. Might get it ready, then put the 99 3.5 in the 00 and the 3.8 in the 99.

@OldColt, I started back to work last summer with a job that's full remote. Maybe you and Carolyn can put me sometime down the road? We can work nights on putting the MT drivetrain into my Montero? Oh, and I can bring you the keys to the Diamante that's been sitting there for 8+ years!. (Long story, OG Crew...)

Ride On,
Bill

Sounds like whatever he did with the coil, he's got a wire wrong there.

What manual are you using? A Haynes manual? Try here; mitsubishilinks.com

Yes, generally monthly something is going on. I've stepped back, working on an off road race truck using one of my other Raiders.

I've been tinkering around a little more with this - got a really dumb question and a couple of reasonable ones: - the CEL went away for a few days and then came back on - I got a slightly better multi-meter but this one auto reads between MV and V so it's harder to tell the actual digits, but I think I may be getting a code 25 instead of 23 now....whats a good way to link a video here so i can get someone else's take?

Also, What exactly is the top dead center sensor and where is it located? I can't find this illustrated in the service manual anywhere nor can I find a part name or number for "top dead center sensor" for this vehicle. Is it called something else now? Please help.

Third - I replaced the ignition coil and the water temperature sensor and I noticed that the water temp sensor doesn't screw all the way in - my old one looked super corroded on the top three threads that stick out the top and the new one only screwed in the same amount - seems like this is how it's supposed to be but wondering if there's any kind of sealant I should be adding to the threads to ensure it works correctly and doesn't leak.

Thanks

BTW, Auto Trans

Howdy folks,
So I posted this on a couple FB pages but figured I would post here as well.
I have also used the search but really didn't see anything specific to what I am experiencing.
I have a 1987 Raider with he 2.6.
I was having stalling issues, were it would just shut off while driving and it would not start till it got cold again.
Wasn't sure of the problem so I went through and changed plugs, wires, distributor, new points got new fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.
Nothing worked. Same problem.
I took it to a local mechanic that works on Delica's to see if he could figure it out.
Turns out I needed a new coil, resister and carb.:(
He replaced them but now...everytime I hit the turn signal, the car either stalls or as the flasher is flashing it drops RPM's both at idle and while driving.
If I turn on the headlights same thing.
When I go to reverse, drive then back to reverse the car stalls.
But...Fan, hazards, radio and wipers do not effect it.
I have had the alternator checked and it reads fine. Battery is fine as well. But, when the fella was doing the test, as soon as the test was done, the car stalled.
So strange. Any help or ideas is greatly appreciated.
Cheers

Yeah haha I'm still around. Last few years I've only popped in a few times. By the sounds of it you're keeping the mitsubishi game alive in Florida? Good for you. I dont use facebook though...you guys still do camping and trail rides?

My dad is doing well, he's ready to retire and take it easy.

250 pictures and a detailed description on my webpage at: https://2003toyotasequoiasr5.blogspot.com/2022/04/500000-miles-one-owner-clean-carfax.html

This is a one owner clean Carfax 2003 Sequoia in very nice condition. It’s had over $7,700 worth of new or recent parts and service including a timing belt and water pump service. It’s fully loaded with sunroof, leather, front and rear a/c, third row seats, running boards, JBL Premium sound, alloy wheels, etc. New Virginia safety and emissions inspections. Very clean inside and out and runs and drives great. Ice cold a/c. Located in the suburban Washington DC area but willing to deliver at reasonable cost. Priced at $5,995 which is below KBB fair purchase price even with those miles.

My Gen 1 3.0 Monty has started to have the Check Engine Light showing.
Not always on at the start and alternating between bright and dim once the car is warmed up.

The ECU code is 14- Throttle Position Sensor, TPS.

None of the suggested performance issues for a TPS fault are happening- car runs well with no hesitation.

Do I need to immediately do the system checks for the TPS or just ignore the Check Engine Light for now?
I have the factory manual showing all the TPS checks.