Problem Solved!
I reached up to the cable from underneath and was able to pull on the cable with a long set of visegrips to release the hood. Once open I could see the hood latch return spring had snapped in half and therefore the handle wouldn't reset.....so off to Tractor Supply for a stiff enough spring ...Actually $5 for two springs but now got extra. Just had to cut it and reattach and good as new!

Problem Solved!
I reached up to the cable from underneath and was able to pull on the cable with a long set of visegrips to release the hood. Once open I could see the hood latch return spring had snapped in half and therefore the handle wouldn't reset.....so off to Tractor Supply for a stiff enough spring ...Actually $5 for two springs but now got extra. Just had to cut it and reattach and good as new!

Welcome to 4x4wire!

The Gen 2 t-bar is, I believe, a progressive rate. I swapped Gen 1 4-door springs into a 2-door and found no difference in ride or handling. You might give this a try and report back?

Cheerio,
Russell

I have been reading on this forum of parts that swap from a gen 2 Montero into a gen 1 Montero. Someone posted the 91-92 torsion bars out of a 4 door would swap into the 2 door Monteros. My specific question is this, why? Is the torsion bar out of the 4 door specked out to a higher spring rate due to the vehicle being heavier? What is the benefit of doing it? Currently I have a 84 Montero as a project and am swapping the brakes off a gen 2 onto it. I grabbed the upper control arms as well, wondering if I should grab the lower control arms and torsion bars, hence my question. Thanks in advance for the thoughts.

happy new year- a bit of an update.
i suspect she will be labeled "suzitoo".
currently on blocks, sans drivetrain and much of the interior.
while impatiently awaiting critical parts, the body has been lifted 2", and i expect to lift the gas tank @that much(experience).
also mocking up the power steering linkage, 'cause the manual box is shorter, using a longer steering shaft.
the body lift helped some, but it still needs to shrink a bit.....
she no longer has ac, but the compressor may be useful in the future.
i have resisted the urge to start cutting, until i have a few more parts to fondle.
i have procrastinated re:picproblem- sorry

Ok i test drove it yesterday, didnt see any difference with the rear removed, but i can with the front removed, but ! Its a truck, i will never drive it on the interstate, i wont be driving fast, it doesnt sway and lean all that bad anyways, plus, its a truck hahaha.

Front suspension can now be Independent now.. doesnt have any more travel, just lets it move a bit freely.
I love it. Actually rides better offroad as well.

Now if i could get around to welding up my diffs she would be an offroad beast .

Are you sure it's knocking from the crankshaft and not the valvetrain? These engines commonly have noisy Valve Lash Adjusters (Lifters).

I was quoted about $2800 for a rebuild on my engine after I had pulled it. I ended up putting in a good used engine instead.

Hi Eric,
Welcome to the site. There is a lot of good info on here. I daily my 89 LWB. I'll take a stab at your issues:
1. Likely a dirty IACV. They are part of the Throttle Body and can be removed and cleaned. Is the idle bouncing at all?
2. Could be a pan gasket or seal. Mine leaks and I have changed the pan gasket. It's likely a seal that I haven't gotten to replacing. Be sure to be adding SPIII fluid. There are a few options other than dealer for this.
3. Likely bad valve seals, it's common on these. Some live with it and keep an eye on oil level, but they can be changed with the heads on the engine using the rope method (feed a bunch of rope into the cylinder and then compress it with piston to hold valve up when doing the seal)

Be sure to read through the archives.

Update:

Pulled it out onto a flat street surface, ran for about ten minutes, and smoking stopped.

But any ideas are appreciated.
I’m guessing oil from head thru a loose valve.
But any ideas.

Thanks!

Eric

Hey Gang,

I’m new to the site, and still learning how to navigate it. Have a couple of issues that I’m sure have been addressed at some point in here, but due to time constraints thought I would throw it out on the table again here.

1989 Montero SWB
Pretty original. Gold paint.
Solid daily driver.

Issue 1 trying to resolve:

Upon start up for the day, after warm up and getting to operating temp, the idle is high at 1100. After driving for a while, or after a 200m trip let’s say, it will idle at 500 or less, and stall once put under load.

Issue 2 trying to resolve:

Tranny is leaking. Yet to crawl underneath, but any typical leak info would be great to steer me. Also, getting into park suddenly isn’t smooth.

Issue 3 trying to resolve:

Upon start up, a bit of smoke. But immediately clears and none for rest of day. Today, started up on a steep hill. Blew smoke consistently while warming, did not thin out and stop. Not the usual clearing of the throat.


Thanks in advance for any insights!

Eric

Gracious offer. Good luck!

Knocking is not good, any time. Please let your audience know some more about your rig: year, model, etc.

Gone!

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Happy New Year All! I'm looking for ideas on a $1k Montero Craigslist purchase. This vehicle has been in my driveway for a few months and its time to see if I can get it runnin' for my two teen drivers. I'm not an expert, just looking for a cool vehicle for my kids to drive locally. The engine is 'knockin' below. The guy I bought it from had it for about 15 years and he did a timing belt job - I think that's what screwed the engine. Are any of you savvy on engines that would work for around $3k? I'm in over my head.

Gotta keep the auto hubs. Being in a wheelchair its very helpful.
As for the locker. Well if i could afford ARB all around that would be awesome, the Aussie is alot cheaper, but i can weld it for free and if done right wont blow apart.

Aussie Locker for the front, still gives differential action when coasting and locks under power. Delete the front Auto hubs and replace with Aisin units available at Amazon, also.

Drove it today with the rear bar removed, actually cant tell a difference in driving, the new shocks may also have helped.
Slight bit more flex, but i still have stock length shocks.
About to disconnect the front and see if she gets wobbly on road. Would definitely help offroad, not looking to increase wheel travel, just let the front do its job freely, its an Independent front.
Stock length shocks and stock bump stops. Cant over travel and bust a joint right ?
More aggressive tires and weld the front diff will make a huge difference though.
Thats later.

You don't specify the model, and I'm going to presume a Gen 1 in this example. Therefore, please refer to the attached photo.

A. With the bumper and skid plate removed for access, reach up behind the grill until you encounter the cable housing.
B. Cut cable housing apart, as pry in an arc to expose the cable core.
C. Pull on the core with some pliers.
D. Pop the hood.

You removed everything to do the job on the bench?

Stuck in third...so the shift lever is all the way back? Have you tried gently pushing the shifter part forward with a pry bar?

This is a new one, Tres.

From the perspective of a volunteer firefighter....

Probably the least destructive method I've used is to get a Halligan bar. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halligan_bar
Go thru the front grill ( <---- this is pretty destructive) and use the forked end of the bar to catch the cable. Twist the bar to pull the cable tight. Then keep twisting to pull the latch.

You can probably do the same thing bu cutting thru the front grill enough to reach inside. Cut the hood latch cable some distance from the latch. Remove the latch cable cover. If the cable is still intact at the latch, you should be able to pull the cable to release the latch. If the cable was dettatched at the latch, you may have to find the latch assembly and release it manually.

Dodge Raider, 5 speed manual:

I replaced the transfer case chain. Reinstalled the tranny/T-case in the vehicle and now the trans is STUCK in 3rd gear.
So I learned that only and idiot does all the work to install a transmission before seeing if it shifts correctly.

So what have a done to cause this tranny to be stuck in 3rd gear? something about the linkage?

Thanks. Happy new year,
Tres

Last week to save!

No.......... can't tell so far

Any idea where the cable is damaged (in the cab, at the latch, somewhere else)?

Any suggestions for getting the hood open when the hood latch cable has snapped??