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Rebuild a Power Steering Pump
by MarkG. 02/17/19 03:55 AM
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Re-installing tranny in Gen1 SWB
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Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/17/19 03:55 AM
Nice write up. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
5 659 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/16/19 03:53 AM
Damn. Puts my work to shame. Mine has a 32/36 Weber, Pacesetter header, 2" custom catless exhaust, and 31" STT Pros and can also scratch second.

(Its also for sale... $5800 OBO)
7 434 Read More
Mitsubishi Diesels
02/12/19 10:16 PM
Wonderful truck and nice clean swap. I have that same motor in my '93 Pajero SWB, recently acquired and getting used to a real Vermont winter. So far so good. Starts like a champ and runs very well.

What did you settle on for boost pressure after installing the intercooler? I'd like to tweak my rig's settings - a little.

38 49,132 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/12/19 04:12 AM
The Carb is from Re-Carb out of Australia, the snorkel is home-made, lots of trail and error on it, but in the end it turned out pretty good. I got the silicone tubing from siliconeintakes.com The bracket is actually a shelf bracket I had laying around in the garage. lol
7 434 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/12/19 02:16 AM
Very nice! Makes me a little ashamed of mine, and it's cleaner than most!

Can you give some details on your carb snorkel?
7 434 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/12/19 12:49 AM
Refer to the attachments for parts diagrams.
Here's what it took to re-seal the power steering pump on an '89 Raider SWB with a 3.0l V6 engine w/ 5-speed manual transmission.
Tools needed;
Seal kit
Replacement PS belt
3/8" ratchet
10mm, 12mm, 14mm & 17mm sockets
Large crescent wrench
Snap ring or piston ring tool
Bench vice
Heat gun or small butane torch
Flat head screwdriver or small pry bar
1” drift or 1” socket
Dental picks
Drain pans (2)
Shop rags
Wire brush
Gasket sealer

Caution-Some cleaners can be pretty caustic, so protect your eyes and skin from exposure. Some pieces inside the pump are small, can dislodge and become lost, so keep a clean work area with plenty of light to help minimize lost parts. Also, some parts are spring loaded so be extra cautious with these items.
The obvious first step is to remove the existing pump from its mounting bracket on the front passenger side of the engine.
-Drain the power steering fluid reservoir by whatever means you find easiest. I loosened the supply line by removing the spring clamp and allowing the fluid to drain in to a catch pan below.
-Use a 17mm socket and remove the nut and washer from the banjo fitting on the pressure line (that goes to the PS box on the steering shaft). There will be more fluid draining from this line, also.
-Turn the engine crank until the two oblong holes in the PS pump pulley line up with the two mounting bolts on the front of the pump body. Use a 14mm socket to remove these two bolts.
-Use the 14mm socket to loosen the mounting bolt on the back of the pump body. This will allow you to relieve tension on the belt and slip it off of the pulley. Once the belt is off, go ahead and remove the mounting bolt completely and the pump can be lifted out of its bracket. Also at this stage, take the new oil seal out of the package and place it in the freezer. This will cause it to shrink slightly and will make installation easier, when you get to that point
-I kept the pump assembly in a drain pan as it will continue to drain fluid until it has been completely disassembled and cleaned.
-Go over the entire assembly with some wire brushes as there will inevitably be some accumulated gunk. Liberally use spray cleaner to get the surfaces as clean as possible.
-Once the outside is as clean as can be reasonably attained, use the 10mm socket to remove the bolts holding the supply feed tube plate (25). There is a small o-ring on the back of this, discard it. Fluid will likely come out behind this.
-Next, clamp the assembly in a bench vice and, using the 12mm socket loosen and remove the four bolts holding the back plate (20) on the assembly. More fluid will come out.
-Set the backplate aside, remove the odd-shaped o-ring (16) from its groove (or from the backing plate if it stuck) and trash it.
-Using snap ring or piston ring spreaders, with the help of the dental pick if necessary, remove the circlip (19) from the end of the pulley shaft. Discard the old circlip.
-Slide the pulley shaft (24) down and out of the pump body. Inspect the shaft for signs of wear.
-Gently wiggle the case (18) up and off of the pump body and set aside. Remove the other odd-shaped o-ring (16) and trash it.
-There are two parts of the cartridge (17) though the parts diagram shows it as one piece, there is a oblong collar and a round center piece with individual "blades" within it. Make note that the central part of the cartridge has a top face and bottom face. The top face has a small hole on the surface which the bottom face does not. Also, the top face has a slight recess around the splines. The assembly will not work if the cartridge is installed upside down. Lift the outer collar of the cartridge up and off of its guide pins, then gently remove the cartridge (17), taking care not to allow any of the individual plates to fall out. If they do, be aware that there is a rounded face and a square face on the narrow edges of each one. The square face needs to orient in to the center of the cartridge so that the rounded face faces out.
-Lastly, using either a deep well socket or a large crescent wrench, loosen and remove the joint package (8). Be aware that the flow control valve (11) behind it is spring loaded and will pop out upon removing the joint package. Remove the four o-rings on the joint making note of their different sizes and which one goes where, then discard the old o-rings.
-Heat the pump body around the oil seal (14) and use a flat head screwdriver or a small pry bar around the entire circumference working it up and out a little at a time. Take your time and add heat as necessary to keep the metal hot and expanded. Discard the old oil seal.
-Thoroughly clean all parts.
-If you want to repaint the pump, now is the time to do so, otherwise proceed with reassembly.
-Again heat the body of the pump around the oil seal. Take the new seal out of the freezer, lightly smear fresh power steering fluid around the edges of it and using a drift press it in to place. Be sure to get it fully seated as deeply as possible.
-Lightly smear fresh PS fluid on the shaft of the pulley and gently slide it through the new oil seal until it is fully inserted.
-Align the splines on the cartridge with those on the shaft and gently press the cartridge onto the shaft until it rests on the pump body.
-Gently install the new circlip into the groove on the end of the shaft. Be careful not to stretch the clip too much or it will not sit completely within its groove.
-Use a few small dabs of gasket sealer to hold the new o-ring on the case. Don’t overdo it with the sealer, just a small dab in each of the areas where the o-ring bends will be sufficient.
-Slide the case back down on its guide pins with the o-ring facing down.
-Again use a few small dabs of gasket sealer to hold the 2nd o-ring on the case.
-Place the back cover of the pump on the case, being sure to align the guide pins, the end of the shaft, and the o-ring.
-Re-install the four bolts and tighten evenly in a criss-cross pattern. Tighten to 15-18 ftlbs.
-Install new o-rings on the joint package.
-Slide the spring back on to the end of flow control valve and slide it in to its port in the body.
-Compress the end of the flow control valve and spring with the joint package and screw it in to place. This will bottom out, so I am not sure what the torque spec is.
-Re-install the o-ring on the inlet flow tube and reinstall it on the pump body. Tighten to 12ftlbs.
-Re-install the pump assembly into its bracket on the engine, re-install the belt and set its tension per the manual.
-Install the banjo bolt on the flow control valve and tighten the nut to secure it. I do not know the toque spec for this.
-Fill the pump assembly with fresh fluid before reattaching the inlet hose.
-Reattach the inlet hose, fill the fluid reservoir. Follow the service manual instructions for bleeding fluid throughout the power steering system.

All-in I figure this could be done in about two hours unless you are going to re-paint it. Considering I was flying blind (and installed the cartridge upside down which caused the entire assembly to bind once I put it all back together so I had to take it all back apart and in the process dropped about 1/2 of the little blades out of the cartridge and had to slowly reinstall each one individually) I was maybe five hours from taking the pump out of the truck to reinstalling it. I shot a bunch of video which I will try to edit together and post up a YouTube link as well.
5 659 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/12/19 12:44 AM
The Rest of It
7 434 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/12/19 12:31 AM
Before Pic's : reason for strange file names is because there reduced sized files, which I delete after posting.
7 434 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/11/19 11:46 PM
Yes, I've had it for about 10 years now and it was time to clean her up. Took about 8 months and more money than id like to say (just in case the wife's listening). Raider will scratch not chirp 2nd gear with 31's on it.
7 434 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/11/19 01:04 PM
Damn that is show-truck kind of clean, is that yours?
7 434 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/11/19 04:55 AM
Not really sure if the pic's are going to show up but i'll try.
7 434 Read More
Suzuki Forum
02/11/19 04:12 AM
suzi the psychic has been pulled into the service bay.
i picked up a rear axle. this is from a '934dr.
i am going to compare the differences...….
i replaced the alternator she donated to "the lotus".
374 501,714 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/11/19 01:22 AM
Got this done this weekend, surprisingly simple but there are a few sticking points. I’ll put up a write up tomorrow, and I shot a ton of video so hopefully I can figure out how to put them all together and make them cohesive.
5 659 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
02/10/19 11:20 PM
Update: someone on another forum gave me a tip to slightly jack the front of the engine so that the flywheel pointed a little downward, which would give enough space for the hump on the bellhousing to clear. Worked like a charm (well, it did once I remembered that the transmission needed to be oriented on an angle to match the engine!)

Now, "the rest of the story": I had the KM145 transmission rebuilt this summer, and a few weeks ago the transmission locked up at a stop. I pulled the transmission, took it back to the shop, and invoked the warranty. Now, when I reinstalled the transmission the first time, the input shaft was pristine — not a mark on it. When I pulled it out this time, though, there was a groove warn in the input shaft where the pilot bearing rides. The transmission place said that the pilot bearing had bound up the input shaft, and if the tranny was in 4th gear and the clutch pushed without downshifting, the 4th gear wouldn't disengage. Sounds reasonable, especially since I saw the damage with my own eyes before they got their hands on it.

This time, instead of trusting the cheap $4 pilot bearing that came with the Sachs clutch kit (supposedly a quality part), I ordered up a made-in-Japan Nachi (which I'm told is OEM) bearing and installed that before reinstalling the tranny.

I hope this is the last time I have to pull that thing for a long, long time!
3 704 Read More
4x4 Gallery
02/10/19 02:05 PM
Jump to new posts Attila [by ATTILA]
I picked this up in a Japanese auction; it arrived at Port Newark in late December. Low mileage and well cared for. Has become my daily driver.
1993 JDM Pajero, 2.5 turbodiesel, 5sp, short wheelbase. Right hand drive. Front winch bumper on order and I'm told will be here Real Soon Now.
Fun in the mud.
0 81 Read More

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