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Recent Posts on TrailTalk
Starter motor are they serviceable ..
by 4runnernomore. 04/22/18 11:01 AM
Considering Part-Out...
by rxinhed. 04/12/18 12:34 AM
suzi the psychic
by rascott. 04/11/18 08:44 AM
1999 Montero Sport Limited 3.5L crawler build
by ES_97Sport. 04/11/18 12:56 AM
4D56 into Mazda B2600i swap thread
by JeffatTireBalls. 04/08/18 02:57 PM
87Monty will have a 4BT
by JeffatTireBalls. 04/08/18 02:50 PM
Tuning up 4D56T
by red1987raider. 04/02/18 12:41 AM
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New Topics on TrailTalk
Starter motor are they serviceable ..
by 4runnernomore. 04/16/18 01:49 PM
Considering Part-Out...
by DRTDEVL. 04/06/18 02:04 PM
Tuning up 4D56T
by red1987raider. 04/02/18 12:41 AM
R&P Contact Pattern
by JeeperDan. 03/15/18 01:14 PM
87Monty will have a 4BT
by rxinhed. 05/01/16 12:11 AM
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Flex test after suspension mods
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My '88
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Kia Sportage & Sorento Tech
04/22/18 11:01 AM
So spent the weekend sorting out my starter motor.

Had my mechanic order one in after pricing around and wanting a quality OEM part instead of Chinese rubbish. His pricing was in the middle. For interest the stearlership price was $575 and the part had to be imported form Korea, minimum three week wait.

Spent a couple of hours on Saturday morning with my son pulling the starter out. For those contemplating the job the intake manifold support bracket needs to come out as well. Now There are two types of starter motors 8 tooth and 10 tooth. You guessed it the replacement was the wrong one.

A bit of ringing around and sourced a quality OEM replacement from Repco with the correct tooth count, applied Service discount and score - brand new starter for $150. . It's great having a good relationship withth your local mechaninc, no issues at all with bring back the other starter.

Recieved a call from my sister in law, our nephew was playing a gig intown at one of the local watering holes. So buggar it pack up and head in for a couple of quiet ales, lists to some music and be with good company.

This morning started again to reinstall, no real issues apart fro my meat axes for hands. It is great having a son with small hands. All back to get her and running like a bought one. Sporty turns over so much faster now. Great result.

Apart for a few hours of my time cost was $150 to replace with a new one. If going from go to whoa I reckon it would take on average 4-5 hours for an average Joe to fit up. Spending a few hours under the car with my son and gaining some knowledge, priceless

Cheers Chris
2 260 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
04/12/18 12:34 AM
Well, if there is time and space...part away.

Put an ad on Adventure Driven Design and Facebook, too.

I listed a PSA on my page, The Montero Ranch and Friends
6 561 Read More
Suzuki Forum
04/11/18 08:44 AM
roxy's spirit lives on!
suzi the sychic is still willing, and we hope for an exciting and busy season.
i am less confident of pics- - - - seems to be a personal problem.....
348 415,900 Read More
Mitsubishi 4x4 and SUV Tech
04/11/18 12:56 AM
I think I'm finally done with the wiring diagram for RADesigns' Winters Rock Shifter. This is a little more complicated then Rory's intended shifter setup, as I need P, N, R, D (4), 3, 2, L (1) signals to control the PCS TCM.

If this wiring works as I think it should, the Winters shifter will generate 1, 2, 3, and 4th. P, N, R are generated by the OEM switch on the PS side of the V4AW3. These signals will be fed into the PCS TCM and also back into the OEM wiring to the PCM. Feeding the signals to the existing PCM will maintain (I'm pretty sure) existing functionality like backup lights, brake cut off for the cruise control, cruise control, the selector position in the dash cluster and anything else that would normally be affected by the OEM shifter.

The nice thing about this setup is that - with the help of the PCS TCM - I will have full manual 1, 2 and 3rd like Rory's setup with the shifter and switches, only without the switches. D (4th) will behave just like D normally does with OD and TC lock-up. I won't have manual control 4th or TC lock-up but I think I can live with that. smile

Wiring the shifter and TCM into the existing infrastructure is a lot easier than if I were trying to do this with a '97-98. The '97-98 only has L (1-2), 2 and D as noted in the diagram below. The '99 wiring matches up perfectly with the shifter and PCM, making this a straight 1 to 1 wiring job. smile

A couple days ago I found a wiring diagram on PCS' site for the Mitsu AW3. laugh Definitely not rocket science. I had Boomslang send me another harness for the '99 PCM so the half dozen connections to the PCM can be wired into the Boomslang harness, leaving the OEM PCM harness intact. Now onto building the spreadsheet for the transmission, shifter and PCM connections. Not too bad. Only about 35 connections. smile

[Linked Image]
1999 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Limit...ams V4AW3 RADesigns Winters Shifter v3.4

124 156,649 Read More
Mitsubishi Diesels
04/08/18 02:57 PM
7 years and I still love this truck!
32 37,696 Read More
Mitsubishi Diesels
04/08/18 02:50 PM
Any news?
17 14,498 Read More
Mitsubishi Diesels
04/02/18 12:41 AM
Hi, guys. I have an '87 Raider into which I successfully dropped a brand new 4D56T engine. When I brought it to the local diesel shop to see if the engine was performing up to specs, they told me they didn't have the tools to work on this engine, with which they're not familiar. My question: what tool(s) do I need to do this job? What should the diesel shop be able to tell me about this engine? Many thanks!
0 246 Read More
Jeep Tech
03/30/18 04:33 AM
So... its been a while since I posted, but I've tired a lot of combinations since then. If anyone is looking to do this project, I suggest buying your supplies from Yukon gear and axle. I purchased two shim kits that had nearly no variety between the 5 pinion shims that were provided. Just received my Yukon shim stack tonight and was very pleased with the quantity, variety and quality.

After trying lots of different combinations of pinion and carrier shims, I've found that I cannot get the drive side pattern and the coast side pattern to converge on the center of the ring gear tooth (between the heel and toe) without causing the pinion to be too deep. Since most articles, including the one that John shared suggest that centering the pattern between heel and toe is not critical and often unattainable, I decided to stop chasing that aspect of the pattern. I worked back toward the size of the original shim pack and reached a point where the pattern appears fairly centered from face to flank (see pictures).

Hoping to get some opinions on whether this pattern has any obvious flaws. Looks to me like maybe .005 less on the pinion shim to be fully centered from face to flank. Any common (or uncommon) mistakes that prevent getting a pattern centered between the heel and toe? If this was your rig, would you give this pattern a shot or keep working it?


5 803 Read More

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