2 registered members (4x4Wire, drabina),
guests, and 1
Dec 28th, 2019
Re: Gen 1 rear locker ?
09/29/20 04:17 AM
Nothing hydrologic on the engine. The 6G72 should have hydraulic lifters between the cam and valve head, I've not heard of mechanical lifters for this engine.
If your truck has the bouncy seat base as factory equipment, you already have the LSD, like it or not. This can further be verified with the orange sticker in the driver's door frame...indicating that you need to use the friction modifier.
The 9" rear differential uses 28-spline axles, I believe. The 9.5" rear diff in the later Gen 2 model for sure uses the 31-spline.
I would avoid the Lincoln Locker idea, too much hassle. There are no lunchbox lockers. I am fortunate to have acquired one of the rare Detroit rear diffs for the 9" Mitsubishi axle...very fortunate.
Re: help me build a bulletproof 2.6
09/26/20 02:30 AM
This is my first full rebuild. I've freshened up 2 other gen 1s. I do get most of my parts from rock auto. I live on a border town and before COVID, I could ship to just across the border and drive to pick up for cheap.
my donor engine had 170k on it. all journals were within spec, so no oversized needed. I bought the rering kit from rock auto and various other parts. not the complete kit as I didnt change the pistons. the rings I also bought at stock sizing. hardest part was putting in new balance shaft bearings, a very steady hand and 90 bucks worth of messed up bearings later.....
I debated doing the balance shaft delete but after much research here I've decided it was best to leave stock.I was leary because I'm sure a slipped silent shaft chain is what took out my last engine.
also splashed out of a weber carb kit. kinda expensive on the north side of the border but I'm eager to throw out all my vacuum lines.
let me know how yours goes
Re: Help me troubleshoot my Gen1 A/C problem
09/24/20 03:03 AM
I'm in SoCal with a '91 LS 3.0l and was going crazy chasing down an intermittent A/C issue for quite a while, so I feel your pain. I believe that I ended up using the '89 wiring diagram.
With regards to your questions:
Compressor: You'll know if the compressor engages because you'll see the clutch on the front of the pulley engage and start to spin with the belt. If it does engage, you should also check the pressure level of the refrigerant to make sure that it is full/full enough to keep the "low pressure switch" (mentioned below) happy.
Condenser fan: Does it spin freely when you try to move it by hand? If not, it is probably frozen/burnt out and needs to be replaced with a new pusher fan. I believe that they are 10" fans. Generic ones can be found online rather cheaply. If this fan isn't working, you'll likely not get much in the way of cold air out of your A/C.
It sounds like you've done most of the more obvious checks, so I'll just toss out a couple of the less common ones here that I went through.
Thermal switch. It's a weird relay inside of the dash assembly on the passenger side, behind the glove box. This thing basically has a temp probe in the Evap coil side and switches the compressor on and off based on the evap coil side temp. This ended up being the source of the issue on my Monty, so I just bypassed it with a blade-type fuse. I run the risk of icing up the coil, but I'm good with that slight possibility. This is also the area where two of the other relays involved in the A/C system are mounted (shown in one of the attached images).
Low pressure switch. This is on the high-pressure side of the system and is screwed into one of the hard lines behind the grill, on the passenger side. It can be tested with a simple continuity test.
Engine coolant temperature switch. On my 3.0l it's the passenger side sensor closest to the firewall.
Re: Introduction - B-Line Performance
09/21/20 04:08 PM
I assume this is for a 4x4 correct? We will only need what your components came off of and if you have any additional lift. You should be a 7 line kit (2 on each front axle, one rear center, 2 on the rear axle).
We can get you the current sale pricing now if you are ready to pull the trigger?
Re: 87 Gen1 Rebuild in Kansas
09/17/20 03:41 PM
Some of the guys used the 90 & 91 transmissions. I'm unaware of Gen 2 part usage.
Yea, pretty sure they are incompatible.
Re: Lower ball joint GEN1
09/16/20 04:57 AM
Not sure how late i am to answer here, but i just replaced all 4 ball joints on my 91. All you need to do is take off the wheel and remove the brake rotor and you should be able to access it. You will probably also need to remove/delink the tie rod ends. It's a good time to change those as well and they come quite cheap.
Re: New guy getting a 91 Montero RS
09/06/20 02:48 AM
Many off the shelf oil filters don't have a good anti-drain back valve. This lets the oil drain back thru the filter, allowing air into oil galleries. A new Mitsubishi oil filter could be a quick and easy fix.