Here's a quick update on my issues with the starter...

I worked on the Sporty all day trying to find the bug in the starting circuit. I began by tracing the circuit from the ignition switch and found a few potential-causes with the wiring of the car alarm (came with my Sporty - the starter-kill circuit being a culprit). I cleaned those up and finished soldering and heat-shrinking all of the spliced wires at the passenger-side kick panel (the latter being a major pain in the <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />). Then I hooked up the power and nothing happened when I tried to start the engine. So I measured the voltage at the S-terminal connector on the solenoid. It read 10.5-11.5 volts, with the values coming up slowly. I have 12.6 volts from the starting battery, even at the starting wire under the dash board. And the starter and solenoid are both good (had them tested again today). Thus, I'm suspecting the problem is either a poor connection at the terminal or corrosion in the starting wire... maybe both, but likely the latter. I know that a reduced-voltage at the S-terminal can fail to trigger the solenoid. But "how low is too low" can be a tough question to answer. Regardless, I think that is the problem - not enough juice to pop the solenoid (I don't even hear a click when I turn the key).

I've looked at the wiring diagram to see where I can splice or bypass the starting wire. The suspect-leg of the circuit comes from the transmission's shift position sensor (auto trans), which is a safety feature that limits starting to 'park' and 'neutral'. The connection at the sensor (right side of tranny) is tight. So splicing there is not favorable. And I can't break that part of the circuit because it splits off to the instrument panel (if I recall correctly). I might be able to tap into the wire and run a new leg directly to the solenoid, leaving the original terminal capped off and the rest of the run uninterrupted. Or I can try cutting back the existing wire at the solenoid and extending it with fresh wire, if needed. A third option is to use the starting wire to power a small relay to switch power from a tap directly from the starting battery at the isolator (sitting in the original battery tray under the hood). I'll let you know how things go. But don't be afraid to chime in...

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />