Here are some pics of the build, to date...


The dual batteries in the box, with everything wired up. The conduits all have sealing rings to help keep the box water-tight. But I left the bottom corners of the box open do allow drainage, should water find it's way in...

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And a close-up...

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The cables & conduits run along the passenger side of the vehicle and terminate at the engine compartment. The cables running to the isolator (with conduit) run up past the wheel well, whereas the starter and ground cables' conduits end at the passenger floorboard...

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The "bird's nest" of wiring cleaned up with solder and heat-shrink tubing. It's still a nest. But the connections are clean and reliable (some of the twist-n-tape splices came apart when I pulled on them <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />). I also cleaned the connectors with Deoxit contact cleaner and protectant...

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To install the isolator, I had to move the charging cable from the alternator (fuse box terminus) to the center lug of the isolator. The stock cable was old and tiny. So I bypassed it altogether by installing a 4 gauge cable, which runs along the top of the fire wall to the isolator. Here's a shot of the connection at the alternator, with the stock wire capped off with red Rescue Tape (this stuff rocks!!!)...

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As noted in my previous update, I decided to install a relay to allow the solenoid (S-terminal) to pull power directly from the battery while still being controlled by the transmission's shift position sensor. The mod was very easy. I just cut of the connector on the S-terminal wire (ignition), extended the wire with a butt connector (sealed in rescue tape - all connections and lugs were insulated and sealed with rescue tape... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />) and ran it up to the one of the 30 amp relay's control terminals, with the other being connected to ground. Then I ran a line from the main battery's lug on the isolator (closest to the fire wall) to the switched input on the relay, followed by a line down to the solenoid. Again, all connectors were insulated, butt connections sealed, and the wires protected with sheathing. All wires used were 10 gauge and an 25 amp in-line fuse (ATO type) was added to line between the battery and relay...

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And here's a photo of the 2 rear-facing holes in the box to be used for quick-connect to the aux battery...

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All that noted, my Sporty runs again! And once I had it on the road for a few miles, it seemed to run better than ever (which I attribute to cleaning up the wiring). I'm not done yet. I'm going to seal the lid to the battery box with some weather stripping, level the rear deck with the lid using plywood, clean everything up and remount the seats. And I still have the winch to install. But everything is in place for that now... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />