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If you notice I circled some, the shape of the gasket and the head don't match. I thought the same thing, if I should punch hem to he head's shape or is it ok to leave them like that.
Punch them out.

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Jay, I got the tool, I am studying it to see how it works. Today is a beautiful Saturday in the good ol'south so I will be working on the truck soon.
Good now get to work! Use this as a guide. 1989 V6 - Valve Seal Replacement - Cylinder Heads Removed

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I am thinking on taking a bit of time longer to paint and polish a couple of things under the hood. This is crazy but thinking on painting the intake manifold, red <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> crazy??? Ha ha ha
No, you are not crazy. I painted mine yellow remember?

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I am also going to redo the plastic piping that covers the fuel injectors wires it is brittle and disintegrating.
You may want to consider self wrapping conduit. It works well at high operating temperatures. You can find it cheap by the foot at Fry's and places that sell computer wiring like PCH Cables in Oregon. They sell 1/2" for $1.08 per foot and ship anywhere for cheap. I'm sure you can find it locally.

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Oh, one question: I found the timing belt way too easy to slide out, is it supposed to have a bit more of tension on it? Can o adjust it? Should I?
Yes, you should adjust it. Make sure the little spring that connects from the post on the water pump to the tensioner arm is there. Sometimes they break. It will pull the right tension on the tensioner pulley, then torque down the pulley. That is how you adjust the tension. Sometime I pull a little extra tension with a big screw driver on the back side of that pulley. Here is a link to Autozone's timing component kit. .

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Will have my pc in the garage together with some good Latin tunes and the little fridge with good beer so I will be posting the good as I go.
Javy
Keep us updated.


89 Raider - V6, Automatic, rear LSD, A/C Retrofit, Cruise Control Retrofit.