Ok, I'll reply to my own post... Did some math... Probably did the same math 10-15 years ago, but, here's to starting over...

Running a 33x12.5-15 on a standard steel wheel with the usual 3.75" backspace will put your outside edge of your tire 4.5" further out from where it sits with the stock rims and tires. THE INSIDE EDGE WILL STAY EXACTLY WHERE IT IS, 6" BACK FROM THE WHEEL MOUNT SURFACE. So, thAT puts the new center of the tire about 1-1/4" further outBOARD. This means, under compression, it hits a different spot. My old fully compressed 32's were just about almost even with the outside edge of the front fender (NO THEY WEREN'T, THEY STUCK OUT ABOUT 1-1.5" UNDER COMPRESSION AND SITTING, 2-2.5") and would still stuff up inside the rear wheel wells. Those tires only rubbed body and frame when steering.

Ok, but, a 33 is half an inch wider in both directions and a 35 is another inch taller all the way around. So, since I still had room to stuff in the rear, I think the width alone would be fine, but the added height means during the cycling of articulation, the tire surface will reach the fender area earlier in the swing than the 33, and might catch. Stuffing the front will be an entirely different issue due the very straight panel just behind the tire. The 32's didn't rub there, but a 35 likely would, not to mention the body mount just behind the tire. The 32's rubbed there but only under full lock steering.

So, here's what I'm thinking... Cutting some serious chunks out where they rub and then plating it with sheet metal (I JUST REALIZED I WAS TOTALLY WRONG IN MY IMAGINATION ABOUT MOST OF THE MEASUREMENTS, I DON'T THINK I'LL HAVE TO CUT MUCH, PLUS USE OF LIMIT STRAPS AND BUMPSTOPS WILL CREATE A MUCH BETTER FUNCTIONING VEHICLE, I THINK). And covering what I can with fender flares. Was emailing a guy at four track about the flares and a knock-off arb bumper from psk, but he hasn't responded. I would love to buy the lockers and gears too, but I still don't have cash flow like I'd like. I want to stick relatively close to stock for now minus lift and tires. I just mean I'm not swapping the axles yet. Basically, I want to run about 5.5" of lift, maybe drop the diff an inch, no body lift, lots of clean trimming and a 35x12.5-15 on a 15x8 with 3.75 bs. Since the lockers are out of reach for me, I will be welding my diffs. I may someday get the gears though, if they're still made by then. I am also going to do more t-s case doubler research and transmission adapter research to swap t-cases. T-case gears are just rowdy expensive to produce in small quantities. Ok, enough for now, my thumbs are tired. But expect more musings and ramblings as I am without a garage for another few months until we rent a house instead of an apartment. (THIS NO HOUSE THING IS REALLY GETTING TO ME NOW THAT I HAVE ANOTHER 4X4!) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

Last edited by Dave Scott; 04/03/15 06:27 PM.

95 Sportage w/welded and 5.89 geared dana 44's on 38.5" TSL's.- SADLY SOLD
CURRENTLY - 2000 sportage, 5.38 gears, welded diffs, 35" tires, 5.5" lift

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/341410