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the blocks provide space for the emergency cables , and access to the caliper bolts , and adjustments .. as mentioned .. in this case , they are an asset...
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Granted, you need the room. Why not get the lift you need using springs/shackles of the proper lift? The rest of your rebuild/swap is of such high quality, it seems a shame not to.


it's not the "lift " thats the issue .. it's the space beside and under the spring .
The block allows access to the caliper bolts , and emerg. leaver , without having to remove the u-bolts , and seperate the spring and axle ..
with this set up (block) I can easly access ALL the bolts , and adjustment with NO problem ..

just imagine a rear seal leaking .. and having to drop out the whole rear end to access , sound like a good plan ?? I dont think so .


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With a traction bar(s) blocks are just fine in the rear. Tire size also plays a big role.
Are those Marlin Crawler shock hoops? If so short or tall and do they require cutting?


I am going with a "traction shock" like Rancho use to supply , not a traction bar .. I have found the shock to be much less harsh and allow just a little better "ride" .. I'm building my own , because they're no longer avaliable .

tires i'm going to run are either 33 x 12.50's or 35's x 12.50's

shock hoops are TG .. 12 " and supose to be NON cut .. they seem tall , and hit the inners .. but I dont have the cab on yet , so I dont actually know yet .


86 4x4 , fiberglass bed , 1/2 doors , hood, etc..
84 Custom 2WD 400HP supra suspension , full frame
83 Trekker SR5
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