Will do, Curtis - and I trust you'll proof-read the text for correct differential terminology. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Now for the not-so-fun stuff that you certainly don't want to overlook, or you'll be sorry when your locker eats bolts or chews up a pinion gear......

The ring gear bolt sealant used by the factory is some tough stuff and you have to clean the threads in the ring gear. One pass with the M10x1.25 tap is not enough - it'll take at least 3 passes to get them clean:
[Linked Image]

Now clean the ring gear bolt threads on a wire wheel brush:
[Linked Image]

Spray brake cleaner into the ring gear bolt holes and clean the bolts with it as well....... blow them dry with compressed air..... then clean the ring gear backside and the case flange to make certain there's nothing that will inhibit a good flat clamp so the gear runs straight and true:
[Linked Image]

Place the ring gear on the case flange with the previously made mating marks aligned:
[Linked Image]

Turn the case assembly over and run in 2 or 3 bolts to draw the ring gear tight to the case. Use a liberal amount of RED High Strength Permatex thread locker or equivalent on the bolts and run all bolts in snug:
[Linked Image]

If you don't have a large vise, you can use a WorkMate or any suitable device to torque the fasteners, but make certain you protect the case assembly - torque the bolts to 58-65 lb-ft:
[Linked Image]

Now set the case assembly aside and clean the carrier cover flange before installing the case assembly.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum