Ok here it is....Truck will not go over 4000 RPM, Once I get there it has no power at all, like it isn't getting something or getting to much of something.
I believe this started within a week after changing spark plugs, maybe sooner. But either way it is getting worse. I looked under the hood to make sure everything I touched was tight and there. It is. As far as I can tell the hoses that you need to remove to get to the spark plugs ( Stupid Placement for spark plugs) are in fine shape, as well are the electrical plugs for sensor I imagine,
I am getting no codes as of yet.

Any help is appreciated and lets hope that I am able to fix it myself.

Sounds like a clogged catastrophic converter.
Uppers are not cheap! Lowers you can just put a universal on.
I don't know if you can get one in a salvage yard legally in BC (not legal to sell in US)

Good luck.

Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Catalytic converter? Timing belt slipped a notch?

Is it running roughly, or any other thing that may help to diagnose other than won't go above 4000?

Sudden onset immediately after plug change?
Gradual, more apparent now with new plugs?
Anything else done with plug change, like timing belt?
Age of timing belt?

The more information above "it doesn't work" the better.

Mine had a collapsed intake hose and did the same thing. Might want to disconnect the maf sensor from the airbox, and see if rpms come back. If it does, trace back from there.

I noticed that the black box on the drivers side there is very loose. Think this could have anything to do with it??

Wouldn't it stand to reason that if it is doing it now then it would have been doing it before the spark plug change??
It was not doing this before the change.

I know of a trick to checking for bad cats.. two actually..
1) connect vacuum gauge to the vacuum test port on the passenger side of intake plenum between the 4 runners.. start car, check vacuum.. should be like 20-30's (help guys what's normal idle vacuum?) i think. then, rev up to 2 grand rpm and monitor your vacuum while maintaining that speed.. if vacuum steadily drops after you've maintained 2,000 rpm.. then the exhaust (cat) is clogged causing your vacuum to decrease as the exhaust pressure builds.. you will loose vacuum to raise the rpm even normally because vacuum is what keeps the rpm's down (ie: choke) but there still should be some vacuum.. if 2 grand hold a stead vacuum, try 3 grand, then try that 4 grand you have trouble with. Before doing this, i'd look on google for the process to this trick.. I but there's more defined numbers than what i'm telling you, but i had that on one of my ase tests and I don't remember the exacts.. the other thing you can try is take your exhaust manifold 02 sensor out, unplug it, set it aside and put a ball or something over the hole to sorta plug it and see if it builds up alot of pressure while running when you plug the open 02 sensor bung hole (no pun intended, lol) if it blows out alot of air just after letting the blockage off the hole you probaby have a clogged cat.. either the 1st or 2nd as mentioned.. you could also remove the 02 sensor that is downstream of the 1st cat and try the same thing and see if it's also building pressure.. if so, then it's probably your 2nd cat.. but i'd put money on the 1st cat.. You can do like I did to be sure, Gut your 2nd cat! there's no sensors after that cat so the computer will no know the difference, but you might gain a slight or unnoticed increase in hp and mpg. Been there done that. I also gutted by 1st cat years ago and that instantly sets the check engine code, but also doesn't change the engine's performance. drove on it like that for months till I could afford that new (1st) Cat.. Ebay for almost $400! and it was definitely not OE as claimed. because the oe has welded bolts sticking out of the cat to slide into the exhaust manifold, the new one did not.. I had to go by nuts and bolts to accomodate AND then they kept breaking till i got better bolts. Whatta pain. make sure it's REALLY O.E. The guy I got my cat from was from NY and that's all he sells is cats.. just so ya know. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> . PS.. did you gap the plugs properly? what's your gap set to? Either it was coincidence the problem occured just after yu worked on it and it could be the cats or it was directly related to the work you did to it which means it should'nt be the cats unless you clogged them up by somehow dumping unburnt fuel down the exhaust (misfire).. that was my reason of clogged cats.. had a bad coil signal ground.. ran on 2 cylinders for 10 miles. Love my Kia <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Well I just finished the spark plugs again.
I think I found my problem....from the front of the engine, the 2nd one in doesn't go in as far as the rest...I believe that the threads are messed up.
I guess I would have to take the top off in order to have a better look?
I know I didn't cross thread it any time I have changed the spark plugs...never have on any other vehicle so why or how would I do it now....

Any help again would be appreciated.

Ouch, hope not man. It's pretty hard to cross thread a sportage spark plug when you use a spark plug socket and 6"-12" extension to get down there that far.. Did you start the plugs by hand? I usually will take them as far as I can by hand (at least 2 turns) before ratcheting on it. you could leave the spark plug cover off and put it all back together, then spray soapy water down the said plug and see if bubbles form.. might be hard to see with the cursed intake in the way, but worth a try to check for leakage maybe?

You may try checking the throttle position sensor, it controls the throttle/RPM through the ECU response.

Update...

The striped spark plug hole has been fixed.
Had it fixed with a Helicoil Insert.
Going to replace the cat.