I've just been down and seen Robert about the suspension, Looking good so far. Explained and showed him all of our issues with the suspension design.

Explained and showed the clearance issues to the CV boot and the general unsuitability of using the original "saddle" unless we can get some more offset outboard to the whole lower mount to clear boot, possibility of new lower wishbone to place the lower mount further out (may ask about a new upper for clearance or may need to be done anyway). .

Looked at rear and decided that new mounts angled back would be the best option. Should have enough clearance to lower mount to use as is.

Might see if they can do a Panhard drop bracket too.

All in all a positive experience from someone enthusiastic about the possibilities.

_________

Needing a bit of input here.

We look like having about 4" of extra travel over standard. How do we want to "spend" the extra travel? My gut instinct is to go the 2" or so lift and have the remainder as extra droop, ie position the neutral point at about 50% of shock travel.

Remembering that height isn't everything (I am looking for serious and usable travel more than poser/idiot height). At that point with the new setup the vehicle will only sit about 2" higher but will be able to drop a tire into a deeper rut (+2" one side -2" other side). We currently have 10" travel with the stock shocker, increasing to an estimated total travel about 14" (with the ability to use that part of the suspension "tuck" currently denied by spacers or droop denied due to shock length)

HI Gary,

Thanks for going down and showing Robert.

I like this "the 2" or so lift and have the remainder as extra droop, ie position the neutral point at about 50% of shock travel." but would it be possible for around 75 mm lift if not at least 50mm as a minimum.

You are in a better position than me in regards to this as you are already running lift.

I am only looking at 235 or 9R max because of the gearing issue and still want to tow my camper reasonably easy with it. Would 50mm be enough or do we go for the higher 75 mm. The drop that ADS got out of his in the end was phenominal. It would be really good to also maximise the front travel to fully useable.

As I will mostly likely be the guinea pig for this I want to get it right the first time. Along with most of our OS brothers are wanting to the higher lift. If this is doable and works well would everyone be happy with 75mm,With good safe road manners?

Definately want to look at the panhard either drop bracket or adjustable too.

Cheers Chris

Going overboard with lift is pointless because the lowest point of the vehicle is ALWAYS going to be the rear diff pumpkin. Too high and you end up with driveline issues (longbody)

I am looking at the 2" lift with extra droop as the lowest setting, you can dial in more if you want but with our NCOP rules we need to be able to show them 2" (after that, fare game...). These shocks have a threaded outer sleeve for the lower spring base so all will be covered.

How heavy is the camper? I've towed a 2+ tonne 12' x 6' x 7' furniture trailer 2700 km with no issues (110km/h in the cool of the day) on 31's. Anything up to a 1 - 1.5 tonne in a reasonable low profile should be OK (care with shorties, they are not rated to tow anywhere as much.)

I could well be the guinea pig for the bits over the next 2 months as they may end up having my vehicle for a couple of weeks to work on. (Possible new job in a few weeks FIFO to a mine.)

Around 1200Kg It's a CUB Spacematic. Sonme of the hills I climbed around Sydney had me back to first gearthinking don't die, don't die <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> (I have auto hubs still so wouldn't be able to wack it into low). On the highway no issues 110 with power in reserve. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

Two inch would be easier and no BS with engineering. I have done two fuly modified 4by's now, fully engineered and road legal. I'm over the whole engineering thing both process and cost .

Are you up for new suspension again Gary?

My sporty is rated for 1800 kg. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Cheers, Chris <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

.

Yep definitely up for new suspension. Old setup is about 6 yrs old, shocks are close to shagged.

Mine's rated for 1800kg too <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> (trailer alone was 1050kg <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

My vote is for 75 mm. I've got the Eibach lift now that has a 2.5" (63.5 mm) front lift and TJ springs in the back. I'm wanting a little more lift and will probably put in a spacer if getting these new coilovers is not an option.

If the outter body is threaded you can always dial in more or less lift but you will change down travel either way.

Having it set for 75 mm you could put it all the way to the top to reduce the amount of lift to less than 2" or push it to the bottom to get more than 4". The flexability would be awesome.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

In Australia we have to be able to demonstrate 2" of lift. This will be the minimum you can dial in. You will be able to dial in more. A lot is going to be dictated by forces outside our control, ie shock travel (about 5" for the shortest or 6.7" for the longest strut), our pivot point on the lower arm, total shock assy length, and clearance to the driveshaft.

In all likelihood we are only going to gain a bit more droop due to the known "4" over normal" we can get now, but we will gain the uptravel we have lost due to spacers. So rather than having the (old shock length limited) 10" travel range somewhere in the total 14" travel available, we will have full use of the 14" of travel. Where you position you static resting height will be a matter for you to decide, but 40% compression/60%droop sounds about right to me, Going too far off the scale will end up with you continually lifting a wheel as one side totally runs out of travel before the other.

The "I want's" are going to have to give way to the realities and practicalities. Aim will be to get as much or all of the known 14" of travel we can get. How much lift over the new "normal" will be dictated by the spring rate, or how much travel you are prepared to lose by adjusting the height of the collar with the springs you have.

Understood. Thanks.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I spoke to Robert last week and progress is slowly been made. They believe they have worked out a way to attache the adjustable front strut to our suspension. The best news is it looks likek it will be reasonbly priced. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I will keep updating as further progress is been made.

Cheers, Chris

I'll have to leave it in your hands for the prototyping as I will be moving back to Townsville in the next couple of weeks to live.