OK so it looks liek I need a clutch...
Lately been getting some burnt clutch smells, getting more noticible... then this morning we had some snow issues and I had to yank my wife's car out, a good bit of slipping/wheel spin... on th3 way to work it started slipping bad... Once I stopped, it now it goes nowhere in gear. Smells terrible.
I've never had a clutch give out on me but I'm assuming it's toast! AFAIK it's original.

I'll investigate more once it's home, but so I can start planning - any tips or tricks for this job? '93 w/ 22re.
I have the FSM, just wondering roughly what I'm looking at for work, and if there are any common bugaboos on this chore.
For an offroad/future race vehicle, any reccomendations on a specfic clutch/kit? I know of Marlin's 12-1600 lb deals. Spendy but worth it?

93 is still 2nd generation. We have replaced the clutch in our 95 3X. Try to avoid that as it really is not a whole lot of fun.
As far as advice goes, I would stick with Toyota parts. We bought an aftermarket kit and it was junk. They gave us a new and supposedly better kit a year later and we installed it but still not happy. Finally pulled it and put a new Toyota friction disk in with the original pressure plate and it has been fine since.

You will need a tranny jack of some sort as the tranny together with the transfer case is heavy. I used a scissor type and it worked fine. I tried to use a saddle attachment on the floor jack the first time but did not have enough clearance. Had to get a flatter jack.

Get a set of swivel/universal joint sockets as it helps a lot when you are trying to get the bell housing bolts in and out. A bit of a tight fit so the swivel helps. The set I got were 3/8 drive impact sockets.

Make yourself a set of dowel pins. Get some bolts of the right thread and cut the heads off. Screw them in to the bell housing and use them to align the tranny when you put it back in. Cut slots in the end so you can use a screwdriver to remove them. 2 is probably enough.

Have the flywheel ground.

Mark all of the drive shaft parts so you can put them back the way they came out to avoid vibration issues. I used a can of orange spray paint to spray a line on the front and rear drive shafts to make sure they went back the way they came out.

As I said, I did not think it fun by the time I did it the 3rd time in about 3 years but it is basic mechanics. Undo stuff and then put it back together. You need about 3 people to put it back in easily. My son and I were under each side lifting and wiggling the tranny in while my brother in law was under the front with a light looking to see if we were aligned and telling us what way to move it. My brother in law is a mechanic with many years of experience and my son is an apprentice mechanic. They both know their stuff. I am not a pro - just an amateur do it yourself guy. I took the tranny out by myself each time but needed help to get it back in each time. The transfer case makes it unbalanced so it is hard to get it in place without assistance.

Be careful. Use good jackstands on solid concrete etc. Don't get hurt.

Randy

If you're looking to race it later, consider either beating the heck out of the tranny tunnel metal for some clearance for those 2 top bolts, or put a 1" lift under there. Roger Brown has 'em.

For the top bolts, I use a 17mm toggled socket with a 2 ft extension; works ducky both directions.

Remember to disconnect your battery, as the starter will be coming off; good time to take it apart and check the condition of the contacts.

Make note of the orientation of the front of the clutch plate, so you know which direction the 'neck' on the new one needs to go. Ya won't know it's backward until it's all back together. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Consider replacing the TO bearing and the pilot bearing while you have it all open.

Aerokroil is your friend for the D/L bolts; if removing the crossmember, there's 4 10mm bolts you have to remove in the member to seperate it from the tranny mount.

X2 on the long extension. I borrowed my cousins 4' 1/2" extension and had no problems with the bell housing bolts.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Do not forget to get your flywheel re-surfaced or you will be doing it all over again.

Well, a year has passed <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> and here I am getting ready to tackle this the coming weekend.
Ordered a Marlin 1200 lb clutch.

Great point on the 1" body lift... I'd been considering that anyway, yeah I can see that making those bellhousing bolts easier to get to... may do it real quick. Think a truck w/ BL cab and stock height bed will look too goofy? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> haha the bed is eventually getting ditched anyway.