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Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? #1028785
05/20/11 03:40 AM
05/20/11 03:40 AM
T
theheep  Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 49
Indiana
I got the seal coming tomorrow and im gonna drop the drive shaft tomorrow and make an attempt at replacing it myself.

I would greatly appreciate any info regarding what to look out for and any tips on making it easier.

Ive got oil mist all over the back window after taking a light ride across town this morning to have my exhaust built.

I dont know if its true or not but the guy at the shop said to reuse the same crush washer cause when he did his dads ford, he didn't and used the new one and it made all kinds of news or something but I think he had been sniffing a little to much acetylene.

You guys got any pointers before I attack this cause as of now, its the only this holding this little beast back. With the Weber carb swap and the new Dynomax 2.25 cat and flowmaster shes finally breathing properly and has a little get up and go.

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Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: theheep] #1028786
05/20/11 03:50 AM
05/20/11 03:50 AM
M
mineitnow  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
Wyoming USA
You can count the number of turns out with the nut, and that will give you some idea of how far (or tight) it needs to go back on. I find, however, that this is just a starting point. It gets you to where it was before you started. Then, I'll put the torque wrench on it and see where it's at. Usually not near the recommended torque. So, I'll then go ahead and put it close to the factory recommended torque. I've done a few like this (all makes) and have never had a problem. Oh, and I usually smear a thin coat of silicone on the outer edge of the seal before install...and don't forget to grease the inside edge of the seal thoroughly (including packing the lip where the spring sits). Good luck.


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: mineitnow] #1028787
05/20/11 04:00 AM
05/20/11 04:00 AM
T
theheep  Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 49
Indiana
Thanks man. Do you think that the shaft that goes thru the seal may be rusted so that I should have some steel wool and fine sand paper on hand to "descale" it if necessary?

Ive never worked on one of these and I really wanna get it right the first time and have everything on hand that I will need to try and bang it out quick. And good call on the grease, I had that in mind but others may not have.

After sitting in a field for 7 years I expected these little things to crop up but the darn thing is leaking so bad now, I just cant drive it till its fixed. Its got oil mist all over the back window now!

After looking thru the manual, it doens't look like that hard of a fix. Just drop the drive shaft and have at it. But it says to drain the diff and to have the truck elevated to get to it? Is it necessary to lift the wheels off the ground to do this? And if so, why?

Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: theheep] #1028788
05/20/11 04:33 AM
05/20/11 04:33 AM
M
mineitnow  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
Wyoming USA
You shouldn't need to drain the diff - the oil won't be that high. Of course, if you want to change the oil anyway (which you probably should if it's been sitting, etc), then doing it prior to the job might make more sense...

Yes, if you see some rust where the seal lip is, then shine it up. Also in the bore on the diff where the seal will mate with the case (so the seal and rtv will make a good contact). Then, use some gas, alcohol, acetone, etc to wipe the surfaces down good prior to installing the seal. ALSO, pay attention and see if there is a small groove wore into the pinion shaft (where the lip of the seal was). If so, try not to tear your old seal up too bad, and compare the widths of the old and new seals. Pay attention to how far the old seal was recessed into the diff housing, and when installing the new one, you might want to not go quite so deep, if possible. The idea is to keep the lip of the new seal out of that groove... Be careful with trying to push the new seal in deeper to avoid the groove (if there is one), because you might not be able to go deep enough to miss it - and then your seal is already installed and cannot be pulled back out without tearing it up. Just something to keep in mind...

They're probably talking about elevating the rear just to make it a little easier for the worker to twist around and maneuver while under there - it's not necessary but would probably make it easier unless your rig is already lifted.

The main thing is to pay attention to the torque when putting the yoke back on - that bearing is preloaded so a wrong torque could cause premature bearing failure. Also, if torqued way too tight or way too loose, it will affect how the teeth mesh on the ring gear and cause all kinds of problems in the long run (and noise in the short run).

Just take your time and think about what you're doing when putting it back together, and you shouldn't have any problems. Good luck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: mineitnow] #1028789
05/20/11 04:37 AM
05/20/11 04:37 AM
T
theheep  Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 49
Indiana
Thanks man, thats what I was looking for!

Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: theheep] #1028790
05/20/11 05:20 AM
05/20/11 05:20 AM
M
mineitnow  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
Wyoming USA
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: mineitnow] #1028791
05/20/11 01:57 PM
05/20/11 01:57 PM
L
LeeForget  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 70
Ontario, Canada
Quote
You shouldn't need to drain the diff - the oil won't be that high. Of course, if you want to change the oil anyway (which you probably should if it's been sitting, etc), then doing it prior to the job might make more sense...

Yes, if you see some rust where the seal lip is, then shine it up. Also in the bore on the diff where the seal will mate with the case (so the seal and rtv will make a good contact). Then, use some gas, alcohol, acetone, etc to wipe the surfaces down good prior to installing the seal. ALSO, pay attention and see if there is a small groove wore into the pinion shaft (where the lip of the seal was). If so, try not to tear your old seal up too bad, and compare the widths of the old and new seals. Pay attention to how far the old seal was recessed into the diff housing, and when installing the new one, you might want to not go quite so deep, if possible. The idea is to keep the lip of the new seal out of that groove... Be careful with trying to push the new seal in deeper to avoid the groove (if there is one), because you might not be able to go deep enough to miss it - and then your seal is already installed and cannot be pulled back out without tearing it up. Just something to keep in mind...

They're probably talking about elevating the rear just to make it a little easier for the worker to twist around and maneuver while under there - it's not necessary but would probably make it easier unless your rig is already lifted.

The main thing is to pay attention to the torque when putting the yoke back on - that bearing is preloaded so a wrong torque could cause premature bearing failure. Also, if torqued way too tight or way too loose, it will affect how the teeth mesh on the ring gear and cause all kinds of problems in the long run (and noise in the short run).

Just take your time and think about what you're doing when putting it back together, and you shouldn't have any problems. Good luck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


do you know how much torque should be applied? im gonna do this when i get around to welding my rear end and changing its fluids.


~88 Raider 2.6L 5 speed
~35"x14.5"r15
~SOA(Spring Over Axle)
~TT(Torsion Twist)
~SBL(Sloped body lift)
Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: LeeForget] #1028792
05/20/11 03:17 PM
05/20/11 03:17 PM
M
mineitnow  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 81
Wyoming USA
137-181 ft.lbs.


96 F250 4x4 Powerstroke
92 F150 4x4 Cummins 4BT Turbodiesel
90 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 3.0
Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: mineitnow] #1028793
05/20/11 05:52 PM
05/20/11 05:52 PM
JohnnyBfromPeoria  Offline
Trail Leader
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,198
Phoenix, AZ *****
In other words, tighten it 'til it screams, then half a turn more.

So to speak.

John B.

Re: Well the rear pinion seal finally went all the way today. Any pointers to ease the job? [Re: mineitnow] #1028794
05/20/11 07:17 PM
05/20/11 07:17 PM
L
LeeForget  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 70
Ontario, Canada
Quote
137-181 ft.lbs.


thats a huge variable. lol


~88 Raider 2.6L 5 speed
~35"x14.5"r15
~SOA(Spring Over Axle)
~TT(Torsion Twist)
~SBL(Sloped body lift)
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3

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