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Brake Caliper Woes #1053898 11/16/12 01:48 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 981
C
CJMT100 Offline OP
Rock Warrior
I dont get it, no matter what I do it seems that my front calipers generally last between 3-6 months. I had originally chalked it up to being the rear was bad and leaking gear oil onto the shoes on one side causing the front to work harder.

The following usually happens :
1. Truck tends to pull whatever way opposite what the bad caliper is (obviously telling me somethings wrong).
2. Truck doesnt pull or pulls a little and brakes feel funny. Usually 1 or more of the pistons on one of the calipers isnt retracting right after I inspect it.
3. The entire caliper locks up BADLY and I have to replace it asap or otherwise there go my rotors and pads

Im not quite sure why this keeps happening to me. A friend mentioned that perhaps the master is somewhat bad and not releasing all the way or I have air in the system. I very much doubt either of these symptoms but IDK for sure. Ichecked the master pushrod-seems fine, air is possible but I know I bled them very good each and everytime unless something is sucking air in.

Also I have used every caliper brand imaginable. Been to autozone, pepboys, possibly napa (not sure anymore), AC Delco, Cardone, etc. Seems none of them seem to work better or last longer than others. Lately I been taking advantage of the pepboys warranty so thats what i been running. 1 side is 6 months old and fine and one is 2 months old and bad already. Im obviously pulling to the left now (right side is the 2 mo old side). Brake lines are new, maybe 2 years old and not collapsed afaik too. Steel lines look fine, master seems fine.. Brake pads have less than 10k on them. I also make damn sure my rear shoes are adjusted perfect like every 3k or less so the front isnt working harder than it should. I also might add the LSPV is working fine too!

I dont get it. im on rock auto right now trying to figure out whose brand I should try and Im replacing both of them at once. Raybestos is 70/side before core, or maybe cardone at 85/side before core, wagner is 90/side before core. Im thinking raybestos as the core is only 10 bucks and ill just eat 20 bucks. Or maybe I should try the local napa? I havent had good luck with the calipers from autozone or pepboys it seems.

I also think maybe I should replace the wheel cylinders for the heck of it and put on the new drums I already have, even though everything seems to be fine-just so I can say it cant be that.

IDK anymore..this sucks. All i can say is the alignment shop noticed I had the issue and I played dumb purposely (already knew it) to see what they would say.. Guy explained to me that he sees it happens alot on the older toyotas with no real rhyme or reason..if that says anything.


1996 T100, Mickey Thomson Classics, Bridgestone Dueler AT 265/75/16, custom offroad KC's.
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Re: Brake Caliper Woes [Re: CJMT100] #1053899 11/17/12 09:22 PM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 476
B
BamZipPow Offline
Mudrunner
Are you sure the LSPV is working correctly? How did you test it?

How I tested mine is to jack up the rear by the differential, put the trans in neutral, spin the rear tires by hand, stomp on the brake pedal. Rear tires should stop immediately. If they don't, the LSPV isn't working and needs to be bled out. Most likely the bleeder valve is gunked up and needs to be cleaned out before bleeding the system. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Here's what a LSPV looks like torn down...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgYchFnp-vY

I've been told there is a valve in the brake line splitter...but I haven't confirmed it.

I would still pull the rubber lines and inspect them. You never know as you may have gotten a bad batch. Have you tried blowing out the lines completely of fluid/debris? Make sure you put a jar to capture any fluid so you can inspect it fer possible evidence. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


1998 T-100 Xtra cab SR5 2WD Auto; Roadmaster Active Suspension; Yokohama Geolander HT-S; lowered air dam; full belly pan; 4 diffuser; 11" side skirts; dual transmission coolers; 67% grill blocked; Auto-RX'd; ScanGauge II/Ultra-Gauge
Re: Brake Caliper Woes [Re: BamZipPow] #1053900 11/18/12 08:00 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 981
C
CJMT100 Offline OP
Rock Warrior
Bleeding LSPV always seems to work fine, fluid always comes out nicely and is not full of debris. Rears lockup good too. But I will double check it using your method.

There is no debris in the fluid either.

A friend suggested I try napa eclipse brand calipers, he has had good luck with them he said. I think my problem is crappy brake calipers from pepboys/autzone. So far in just putting ones on from them I had one immediately leak from a piston, another one leak from where the caliper body is joined together, and almost all of them have had the same thing-1, maybe 2 pistons out of the 4 fail. Only reason I kept going with it was b/c of the warranty. I can change one by myself in 5 mins by now and just need a helper to bleed it lo.

Maybe the pad dust doesnt mix well with the calipers? Im using hawk lts pads and been happy with them.

I do frequently drive in sandy conditions offroad to go quading, maybe the sands getting into them?

What I think Ill do is replace the rear wheel cyls for the hell of it, get napa calipers, bleed the entire system and make sure everything works.

Last edited by CJMT100; 11/18/12 08:02 AM.

1996 T100, Mickey Thomson Classics, Bridgestone Dueler AT 265/75/16, custom offroad KC's.
Re: Brake Caliper Woes [Re: CJMT100] #1053901 12/26/12 05:26 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 981
C
CJMT100 Offline OP
Rock Warrior
So the end results are I replaced the following just to be sure:
Calipers (went with nap and they are nice but spendy at 70/ea but they are PC too!), new front lines, new wheel cylinders, new rear shoes I had laying around.

Brakes still not up to snuff so I bled and bled and bled no real change. Then I bled the master which helped slightly but still spongy pedal that was to quite low to the floor floor. Adjusted the rear shoes to no avail either.

Finally adjusted the hell out of the booster pushrod and bingo no more issues so far. Im not sure how or why it was out of adjustment but it was.

Im not sure why but ever since I changed the rear is when this all started. Whatever seems to be fine now.


1996 T100, Mickey Thomson Classics, Bridgestone Dueler AT 265/75/16, custom offroad KC's.
Re: Brake Caliper Woes [Re: CJMT100] #1053902 01/08/13 10:33 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 981
C
CJMT100 Offline OP
Rock Warrior
Im going to set this truck on fire...

96 T100 x-cab 4x4, automatic. 16" wheels and 32" tires. 240k but very well taken care of.

I now am onto a new/old problem. The truck is pulling to the left. before I replaced everything I thought maybe one of the components was bad..unlikely since everything is now new but I suppose possible. 3 alignment shops later (2 before and 1 after my RR the front/rear brake system) and myself verifying it at a buddys shop too. Everything is in spec if not near perfect.

About my only idea is although the brake lines are new, one them is bad out of the box. So 2 issues:

1. Pulls when going down the road, more the road is crowned the more horrible it is. Driving in the fast lane on a major hwy means fighting the wheel a bit and turning it about 1/3-1/2 to the right to keep it on course. On flatter roads its still a bit off but nowhere near as noticeable or bad.

2. Hit the brakes and IDK if the tire follows the road but it pulls to the left, doesnt matter if your in the center of a road either. It doesnt pull hard (like yank outta your hands) but enough to notice. Doesnt matter if you hit them softly or hard, it pulls to the left and moves the wheel a bit if your loosely holding it. Hold the wheel tighter and you can correct it a bit.

Every place that aligned it and my buddy says every frontend component is fine. Everything is new besides the tie rod ends which are still in good shape. Ball joints, linkages, steering box, idler and pitman arm.

Everything related to brakes is dang near brand new. Rotors, pads, shoes, drums. I just did calipers, lines and wheel cylinders. There is no air in the system. Just today I checked the pistons in the calipers and they all move fine, lubed the slide pins, greased everything up. Wheel bearings were done 2000 miles ago and rechecked again a month ago by me, no issues-torqued according to the FSM.

I have played musical tires to no avail, thinking I had radial pull. I even tried my old 31" tires on stock alloys and it makes no difference besides the larger tires cause slightly more pull due to the width and large tread.

I mean I suppose the frame could be bent-but why didnt it to it till this past year if the frame was bent?

IDK what to do anymore but sell it and move on..I suppose I could replace the front lines..again..


1996 T100, Mickey Thomson Classics, Bridgestone Dueler AT 265/75/16, custom offroad KC's.
Re: Brake Caliper Woes [Re: CJMT100] #1053903 01/09/13 08:00 AM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 476
B
BamZipPow Offline
Mudrunner
Is it possible that yer rear spring shackle bushings are worn? Any broken springs? How good are the shocks back there? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

You could have someone follow you and see if the back end is pushing to one side or not when the truck is pulling. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

How good are yer control arm bushings? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


1998 T-100 Xtra cab SR5 2WD Auto; Roadmaster Active Suspension; Yokohama Geolander HT-S; lowered air dam; full belly pan; 4 diffuser; 11" side skirts; dual transmission coolers; 67% grill blocked; Auto-RX'd; ScanGauge II/Ultra-Gauge
Re: Brake Caliper Woes [Re: BamZipPow] #1053904 01/09/13 11:06 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 981
C
CJMT100 Offline OP
Rock Warrior
Everythings tip top which is what I dont understand, I replaced literally everything on this truck.. I just did the shackles and bushings maybe 3 months back thinking of this very issue.

Not much has changed in general, it cant be a radial pull b/c I had the tires on here before and it didnt pull. Its something in the last year, about all I can think of is oneof the new lines is bad or the rebuilt steering box is bad-it does have a minimal amount of play.

Im taking it next tues to a very reputable shop and see what they say..I give up.

Last edited by CJMT100; 01/09/13 11:09 PM.

1996 T100, Mickey Thomson Classics, Bridgestone Dueler AT 265/75/16, custom offroad KC's.
Re: Brake Caliper Woes [Re: CJMT100] #1053905 01/10/13 01:21 AM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 476
B
BamZipPow Offline
Mudrunner
Just a long shot...the crossovers are bolted in, right? Maybe they might be loose a little? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


1998 T-100 Xtra cab SR5 2WD Auto; Roadmaster Active Suspension; Yokohama Geolander HT-S; lowered air dam; full belly pan; 4 diffuser; 11" side skirts; dual transmission coolers; 67% grill blocked; Auto-RX'd; ScanGauge II/Ultra-Gauge
Re: Brake Caliper Woes [Re: BamZipPow] #1053906 01/10/13 04:20 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 981
C
CJMT100 Offline OP
Rock Warrior
yep. Everythings tight afaik after I checked it a few days ago.

It all makes very little sense why this is happening.


1996 T100, Mickey Thomson Classics, Bridgestone Dueler AT 265/75/16, custom offroad KC's.

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