I recall new ECU's take time to learn the correct idle but I don't think it should run that poorly. You confirmed the new isc is still good right? the ecu and isc can make each other go bad. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

[/quote] I recall new ECU's take time to learn the correct idle but I don't think it should run that poorly. You confirmed the new isc is still good right? the ecu and isc can make each other go bad. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> [/quote]

No I didn't Offroader. I do not have any tools or place to check it. But the one I bought was from Autozone, and it came with a lifetime warranty, so I called them and told them the one I just bought was bad, and they will have a new one in the store at 8 am. I asked if she would refund me once I brought the "bad one" back, and she said she would. I rented a car, so I will go there first thing and get it, put it in the truck and see if that is indeed the problem. New IAC and new used ECU. I sure hope this does the trick. I was not aware they could make each other go bad, I thought only the IAC could ruin the ECU. Thank you for the heads up. It is much appreciated, as always, sir.

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No I didn't Offroader. I do not have any tools or place to check it. But the one I bought was from Autozone, and it came with a lifetime warranty, so I called them and told them the one I just bought was bad, and they will have a new one in the store at 8 am. I asked if she would refund me once I brought the "bad one" back, and she said she would. I rented a car, so I will go there first thing and get it, put it in the truck and see if that is indeed the problem. New IAC and new used ECU. I sure hope this does the trick. I was not aware they could make each other go bad, I thought only the IAC could ruin the ECU. Thank you for the heads up. It is much appreciated, as always, sir.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> [/quote]

No problem. One of the ecu rebuilders told me that.

I got another IAC and installed it this morning. The truck started, but is missing very badly. It does idle, but again it is sputering and popping.

I let it run for a good 20 mins to let the new ecu learn what it needs to.

There is not, nor has there been, any CEL.

Is there anyway to tell the timing belt has jumped a tooth without tearing off the front of the motor, again? I am WO deri g if all of the popping and sputtering might have caused the belt to jump?

Sorry for typos and grammer, typing this on my phone.

Anything else you all can suggest before I get slapped with a repair bill I can't afford?

Not likely timing belt. The simple stuff first. Spark, fuel - likely spark...

I was thinking spark as well, as it did run, which means it's getting fuel.

I am not able to find the exact method for clearing the ECU. I have read to remove power from it over night, hold the + and - cables together for 10 seconds then reconnect to battery... Anyone know the right way to clear the 306993?

Old colt did wires and plugs, as well as new coil pack about a year ago. If you were to hazard a guess, what could have happened to the ignition system from all the cranking/sputtering and misfiring?

Any ideas I could give the tech at Meineke would sure be much appreciated, before he spends hours diagnosing and whacking me with a huge bill.

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Sorry brother I linked you to the 90 not the 95. I owe you one.

I was just grasping when I suggested slipped T belt. I didn't recall any of your previous post on what you've done,,,gettin senile I recon.
I hope Rockauto sent you the right Distributor. With the wrong one it probably wouldn't run at all. Harness coming out the bottom and it's an '89.
Yours being OBD2 I think your stuck with having codes read.
That's probably the only way to see if it's cam or crank sensor.
You have 3 coils , maybe as seperate packs,,,were all replaced? I don't know much about them, I don't know if each one has an igniter or if those are inside the ECU.
.
On gen 1 the ECU and ICS are reset after the battery cable has been disconted to clear codes and then reset by starting and ildling 5 min. , shut off restatr and ildle 5 more. Each time idle will drop about 100rpm till it gets to 700rpm. Keep in mind the Gen 1 is a hundred time more primative an ECU.
I would never touch the 2 cables together incase some juice was left in a capacitor somewhere.

No Worries, DuCal. I appreciate the effort very much.

Dave, my truck has a 1 piece coil set of 3 coils. They were replaced by Old Colt when he did the service on her a year or so ago.

The tech at Meineke told me Saturday that after much hassle and he got a code 41, which is Crank position sensor I believe. He said all kinds of numbers were way off, and that the timing was all fubar. All this is according to his Snap On Modus. Fuel pressure is good. He said he is going to diagnose it further before committing to tearing off the front of the engine, yet again. It has been taken down to the crank sensor 4 times in the last 2 years, most recently about 4 weeks ago before I made the trip down here. The sensor itself was replaced about 2 years ago, when a tech pinched the wires and ruined the sensor putting it back together.

As for OBD, my truck is 1.5, not 2, so it is still fairly primitive.

So I gfuess if the Snap On scanner can read the code, then the ECU must be ok? Or am i mistaken in that as well? LOL

As always gents, thanks ever so much for the replies.

Oh, I almost forgot, can anyone tell me the name of the stealer in TX that everyone orders from?



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as I recall the dealer is called Southwest.
Maybe you still have some damage in the wires or connector on the cam sensor.
I think your codes are all a mess with everthing that's happened, unplugging stuff and such so your getting codes that are cause by secondary stuff and your problem is that cam sensor.