Hi Lads, On my 86 toy 80,000 Mi, if it sits more than a day it takes several attempts to get er started. Now I had a 91 that did a the same thing when the fuel line sprung a leak but this one in pristene underneath and there are no obvious leaks. Any suggestions? . Any and all help greatly appreciated

Is this a carb or EFI model?
That will help in narrowing down the culprit.

Sorry for the lack of info. I guess this was around the time they changed over and I should have known better. Anyway its its EFI and as I said it just cranks and cranks for several tries just as my 91 did with the leaking rusted line but there is absolutely no rust here at all.

Actually, they had the option of both EFI and carb up until '92 (I think) in the 2wd's, but no matter.
When it sits for that day plus, if you turn the ignition to "ON", but not to "Start", do you hear the fuel pump working?
Not sure if you'll be able to hear it in a truck.
Sounds like it might be a fuel pressure issue.
Is it better or worse with a full tank?

BTW - where did you find an '86 with no rust? I have rust repair to do on mine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Todd

Ditto... Good idea to check the fuel pump pressure...

One of my Toyotas first got hard starting and ultimately fuel pump failure.

Fortunately fuel pump failed just as I was leaving the house.. will strand you big time....

x 3.

To add, pull your dipstick and give it a whiff to see if it smells like fuel. If so, you might have an injector or two leaking.

Your other factor in the mix is the cold start injector, but do stick with ruling out the fuel system first.

Actually, I was fearing the fuel pump was the culprit. What a hassle it will be. However I will beg bowwor or steal the proper meter to check the pressure. It currently has 1/2 tank. It idles and drives perfectly . As for the no rust question I bought this unit in upper VT on the NH border and I believe it spent most of its life in Arizona and thus the perfect frame which I am about spray with penetrating oil and drive down a good dry dirt road. Oh by the way, I seem to remember reading that an external elect pump can be added if the orig one fails as it will draw through the original one . Any one ever hear of this?

Try the fuel pump test jumper:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump

Should be able to hear the pump running and you can try either pinching off the return line or apply some vacuum to the pressure regulator to listen for a change in sound of the returning fuel from the regulator. It'll sound like a leak in a tire, sort of a hissing sound.

As usual, when I finally get the time to dig into my problem, its raining out so its on hold for a day or two. However I did the puel pump jumper trick without any change. I checked the resistance between the start injector time switch and they are right on. However the readings from the water temp sensor are just the opp of what the scale in my book shows. Cold engine reads 3.4 ohms and as the temp rises the readings go lower. Warm engine shows .5 ohms. What does the temp sensor control? Also when the engine is stone cold a very small spritz of starting fluid brings it to life instantly which kind of makes me think the cold start injector isn't working.I mean if the fuel pump isn,t working then it wouldn't run at all. Lots more to check but thats where I stand right now (rained out for today) .

Go to the tech articles (left sidebar) at www.autoshop101.com and give the article EFI#3 a good read; it'll tell you what the temp sensor as well as the cold start injector do. Don't leave out the latter to check also. It's also in this article.

It's rather lengthy, but worth the read if it's still raining on you. Good to see you're not just throwing parts at it for the time being.