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Four Wheel Drive won't work #1067786 01/04/14 07:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
J
joakers Offline OP
Need a Spot
When I bought my 2002 Kia Sportage, I had problems with the vacuum system for the lockouts just like everyone else. I replaced them with manual lockouts and haven't had problems since. Last fall, I had a local mechanic replace the wheel bearings, but that is all that has been done. Yesterday, I was traveling in the snow, and came to a T in the road. When I took off from a complete stop, my back wheels lost traction -- I discovered that my 4 wheel drive was no longer working. Got out of the vehicle and checked the lockouts -- the one on the right (passenger side), had kind of kicked from the "locked" position, back about half way between free and locked. Put it back into place and no 4 wheel drive. Limped it back home after work, and decided to pull the lockouts off and inspect them. They seem to be working fine. When I went to put them back on, the shaft spline on the passenger side was fine, and I slid the lockout back onto the spline. On the driver's side, I went to put the lockout back on, and there is no spline -- just the end of a straight shaft -- I can see the spring ring on this shaft, but there is no visible spline for the lockout to fit over. Is this weird? Is this lockout just a dummy? No spline, no shaft protruding, no nothing to make this lockout work. Is this normal? Has something slid out or slid in or something? Anyway, I put it all back together and I still don't have 4wd. When I am moving at a crawl, and slide it into neutral, and shift between 2wd and 4wd I don't feel or detect anything changing like I used to. At a full stop, in drive, and shift between 2wd and 4wd, I feel quite a bit of resistance in the differential shifter. Could I have lost a U-joint in the front end? Anyone have any ideas or advice? Any explanation of the "dummy shaft" would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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Re: Four Wheel Drive won't work [Re: joakers] #1067787 01/04/14 10:00 PM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 326
Peabody Offline
Mudrunner
Never heard of or seen a dummy shaft on the front axle. You should have splines on both sides. If all of the splines had sheared off, you would have a large amount of debris behind your locking hub. Bad U-joints would make noise, like a clunk when you shift into gear or start to drive. The stock front differential is an open carrier. It only turns one wheel, just like an open carrier on the rear. The power transfer on an open carrier is most evident when you do a burn out - you only lay down rubber from one wheel. If you have no splines, and therefore no grip on the driver's side, you may have lost all traction for the axle. The only fix I can think of is to replace the shaft. That won't be too difficult if you can get a replacement from a wrecking yard. But the repair will take a bit of time because you will have to remove the CV axle and probably lower the front diff housing (after draining the gear oil, of course). The driver's shaft is held on by 4 bolts through the left-side hanger/mount. Just swap out the complete mount and shaft. I'm sure the bearings will be fine from the donor vehicle because the front axle gets so little use. Here's a pic of my front axle completely disassembled during a rebuild. The rusty looking bracket is the mount. It has a bearing pressed into it that is also pressed onto the long shaft you see (with splines and groove). That's the part you'll want to replace - as a unit. If your front drive worked before the bearing change and you have no bits of metal and signs of chipping off the shaft end, I can only suspect that the person/shop that did replaced the wheel bearings removed the splines. If the shaft is smooth or displays marks from a grinder, you definitely got screwed. Let us know if you need more help...

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

[Linked Image]


1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
Re: Four Wheel Drive won't work [Re: Peabody] #1067788 01/17/14 02:54 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 360
Lou Offline
Mudrunner
Wait wait...the splined end that fits through the locking hub is not the long shaft....this would not allow the wheels to steer....it is only the stub shaft that extends past the cv joint. See item 13 on this drawing...
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

I'd suspect you can easily pull the cv/stub unit with the half shaft from the splined long shaft , allowing to keep away from the differential,
ANyway...this stub shaft has been ruined probably at the time of your bearing replacement,( cause I suspect in the years before you had proven the 4wd to work...did'nt you)......why?...you will have to ask.
A photo of your "problem" would be an interesting complement to your story...

Re: Four Wheel Drive won't work [Re: Lou] #1067789 01/17/14 07:50 PM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 326
Peabody Offline
Mudrunner
Doh! How did I not see that?!? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />


1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
Re: Four Wheel Drive won't work [Re: Peabody] #1067790 01/18/14 12:13 AM
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
J
jaybrian32 Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
The stub shaft the passes through the steering knuckle to the hub IS part of the CV joint, replace the CV joint and problem solved.


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