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Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: ThatGuyFromGates] #1069788 03/11/14 02:20 PM
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 295
M
Malykaii Offline
Mudrunner
I made a custom tool to pound those out. Used a screw driver and broke off the handle then put a 15ish degree bend in it. Putting the new ones in however was cake.

Also gen2 upper arms do mess with the alignment. From what I understand your supposed to crank the torsion bars. Mine still are a little off. You need to use alignment shims. Take it to a decent shop. Be prepared ti pay a little extra for a decent alignment as some shops will see what it takes to shim and align properly and either will bs it or just do the tie rods aka toe and send you out on your way. Also stick it out to watch then do it and maybe even bri your own shims.

Speaking of shims... where do I get them for our trucks. I only had enough oem ones for on side. I don't want to use the universal auto part store ones if the oem ones are better.


88 Montero, StarQuest turbo, Kormex 5speed +tuff-pan w/phoenix f. stage2 clutch, 4in lift+33' tires, 4.875 lsd, short-throw shifter, Aisin hubs, SR big brakes, gen2 uca's, elantra alt, and so much more... 16g turbo w/hardpipes + 4.90 locking disk-brake axle soon (maybe lsd or aussie front??)
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Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: ThatGuyFromGates] #1069789 03/11/14 09:45 PM
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 42
captainawesome Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Quote
Couple random exteriors, nothing fancy, hopefully I'll have time to make some sliders and a set of bumpers

[Linked Image]


Nice looking rig. What's that front bumper off of?


1990 Montero LS LWB A/T
1989 Montero LWB 5 spd
Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: captainawesome] #1069790 03/12/14 12:14 AM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 21
T
ThatGuyFromGates Offline OP
Need a Spot
Quote

Nice looking rig. What's that front bumper off of?



Funny story...I've got a multitude of projects at the moment, spanning from a 29 model a, to a turbo beetle. I started to make a new bumper for the Monte but needed to run up and get an inspection. I trashed the original bumper riding in the woods, and needed a temporary fix, so I grabbed a stock rear bumper from my 76 datsun 280z. Made it fit, threw some paint on it, and actually didn't mind how it looked....I'm still in the process of making new bumpers, but that's been about a year now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: Malykaii] #1069791 03/12/14 02:05 AM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,208
JohnnyBfromPeoria Offline
Trail Leader
*****
Quote
Speaking of shims... where do I get them for our trucks. I only had enough oem ones for on side. I don't want to use the universal auto part store ones if the oem ones are better.


Rock Auto has them:

Rock Auto Shims for 1990 V-6, for example

And a 280Z bumper. Now that's impressive how nice it looks.

John B.


'87 Raider 2.6 Turbo Auto, Under Construction
'95 Montero SR, 35x12.5/15 BFG M/T KM-2's, Rock sliders, Qtr panel chop, gas tank lift, 2" BL, Aisins, 5.29s
'95 Pajero Mini
'98 Montero Winter Ed.
'04 Cadillac XLR
'03 Kawasaki ZRX1200R
'60 Ford Falcon 4Dr
Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: JohnnyBfromPeoria] #1069792 03/12/14 04:21 AM
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 683
Oso Offline
Rock Warrior
*****
You'll need longer bolts for the Gen 2 UCA's as well. When i had mine aligned it took two tries due to insufficient bolt length. IIRC you need to put the thicker side of the the UCA to the frame.


90 LWB - Not your average bear

"You are what you are, and you ain't what you ain't." - John Prine
Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: Oso] #1069793 03/12/14 04:58 AM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,876
Tag Offline
Roll Me Over
*****
When I put mine on it seemed to make the Raider ride better and gave it better cv shaft angles.


89 2dr 3.0 AT, manual hubs. 33x12.5 MT
gen 2 coils,Cranked front tbars
Dons rocker protection, Front/Rear Bumpers. ARB rear locker, 2" BL, Beefed up skid plates/trailing arms. Gen II uca, 2 Bouncy seats www.youtube.com/TagGeorge
Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: Tag] #1069794 03/12/14 01:47 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 21
T
ThatGuyFromGates Offline OP
Need a Spot
When switching out from auto hubs to manuals, is there anything else needed in terms of electrical disconnects or anything- my WHEEL LOCK light is constantly on, am I missing something here or do I just need a one-inch piece of electrical tape to "disable" the light? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: ThatGuyFromGates] #1069795 03/12/14 02:02 PM
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,342
RECON45 Offline
Body Damage is Cool
are you sure your hubs a are free spining. The wheel lock is on the transfercase and that driveshaft should not be spining unless you have it in 4wd or if one of the hubs is locked causing the driveshaft to spin. check those things out


91 Montero LS "Sandstorm", Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats, 2" Suspension lift, 2" Body Lift, GENII front IFS, 32" MT tires

89 Raider "Trailbreaker", 3.0, Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats
Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: Tag] #1069796 03/12/14 02:06 PM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,208
JohnnyBfromPeoria Offline
Trail Leader
*****
For all this talk of alignment and geometry of steering parts, it really comes down to carefully examining things and figuring stuff out. The last time I took my '95 in for an alignment, the tech (I've used them for 10+ years) said I was off on the toe setting by 1/8" and I had set it in my driveway by eye.

First, I'd be concerned if my center/drag link was not running a nice perpendicular line straight across the frame angles from Pitman to idler, as has been mentioned before. If the Gen 2 Pitman fits, I'd sure use one.

Check your camber with a big level. You can get it pretty darn close to a starting point of zero that way.

Center the wheel and start looking down each side of the truck from the front to the rear, referencing the rear tires. Adjust the tie rod adjuster sleeve so that they line up as close as you can get to the rears, but also make sure the adjuster sleeve is pretty well centered between the two tie rods as a starting point (if it's closer to one tie rod than the other, I'd suggest starting there by taking the adjuster off and re-threading the tie rods in evenly). Also try to get the adjusters in approximately the same position on both sides. You can not only get a centered wheel, but you can usually get the toe-in/out pretty darn close just by eye. There are more exact ways with string, etc, but I've never used them.

Before even spending time at an alignment shop be sure you have held up your end of the responsibilities by checking wheel bearing play (jack up front, grab wheel at top and bottom and try to rock it back and forth). Adjust/tighten/repack/replace if necessary. I replaced the wheel bearings and races in my '95 for about $40 plus the cost of a race and seal install tool kit from Harbor Freight.

Have a helper move the wheel slightly while you examine the steering gear for worn parts. When checking the wheel bearings per above, also be looking for any play in the ball joints and upper and lower control arms' bushings. Get grease into every fitting and remember that typically, you can get more grease into the ball joints if the front is in the air.

Every piece works together in the front end and the end result is only as good as the weakest link. New ball joints and steering components won't make much difference if you have a lower control arm with a shot bushing, for example.

Then take it in for an alignment, watch them work on it (my guys let you into the pit with them and don't charge anything if they want you to replace stuff first) and ask questions/be critical in a polite way. I pay $60 for an alignment, but typically, they aren't shimming because I can get that pretty close myself. Once done, don't adjust your torsion bars, that you have to do at home, too, and measure, let settle and measure again with those.

Then take a ride over to your friendly tire store and get those wheels/tires balanced. It all makes a world of difference.

John B.


'87 Raider 2.6 Turbo Auto, Under Construction
'95 Montero SR, 35x12.5/15 BFG M/T KM-2's, Rock sliders, Qtr panel chop, gas tank lift, 2" BL, Aisins, 5.29s
'95 Pajero Mini
'98 Montero Winter Ed.
'04 Cadillac XLR
'03 Kawasaki ZRX1200R
'60 Ford Falcon 4Dr
Re: Gen 1 upgrades: Gen 2 uppers, Gen 2 idler, Gen 2 brakes, braided lines, etc [Re: JohnnyBfromPeoria] #1069797 03/12/14 02:49 PM
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 295
M
Malykaii Offline
Mudrunner
Great advice. I wish more people would read it. I had customers come in for alignments and just drop a car off. Id do as I'm told. Then the customer would come back the next day mad at me that I did a bad job. Turns out they have a wheel shimmy, noisy wheel bearing, or even something rediculous like a bouncy suspension from blown shocks. Mind you they think an alignment will solve this. Once a month I'd get this bs, now no alignments without a full out interview.


88 Montero, StarQuest turbo, Kormex 5speed +tuff-pan w/phoenix f. stage2 clutch, 4in lift+33' tires, 4.875 lsd, short-throw shifter, Aisin hubs, SR big brakes, gen2 uca's, elantra alt, and so much more... 16g turbo w/hardpipes + 4.90 locking disk-brake axle soon (maybe lsd or aussie front??)
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