I've seen some threads on the swap, but nothing from the small 4-cylinder brakes to Gen2 brakes, and nothing that I would consider a "how to", so here it is.

I had my front right caliper seize up on me, so rather than replace it with another anemic caliper, I decided to swap in the Gen 2 brakes.

I used rotors, pads, and calipers from a 1998 Montero Sport.
Master Cylinder from a 1998 Montero Sport as well.
You will also need to replace the bolts that join the hub and brake rotor, as you will see.
New brake lines (I bought -3an stainless lines & M10 to -3an adaptors on each end)



Look at how pathetic those brakes look compared to the tires! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

First step is to remove the brake caliper & bracket, then start taking apart the locking hubs.



Unbolt and remove the locking mechanism.



Remove the circlip from the end of the axle shaft.

Remove all the bolts



And remove the body of the locking hubs.



Remove the 2 screws on the nut retainer



They may be pretty tight, so a proper impact screwdriver is a huge help



And then remove the nut retainer.



The nut *should* be fairly loose, so you should be able to spin it off with a small screwdriver in one of the holes.

At this point, you should be able to pull off the hub & rotor assembly.







Clean off all the old grease

If you are not replacing the shield, it needs to be trimmed back to fit the new calipers.





I used my air cut off tool, but tin snips should work as well.





Finished Product:

Time to clean up and inspect the bearings



And pull and replace the rear grease seal









Dig out all the old grease



Cut apart plastic container (in this case, laundry detergent) for a parts cleaning bucket and a can of brake cleaner, and CLEAN!

Time to pull the hub apart from the brake rotor

Some pictures comparing the old small rotors to the new larger ones.









As you can see, the old bolts that hold the rotor to the hub have a unthreaded shank that is too long, and they cannot be used.



Replace with new shorter HARDENED bolts, and new washers and nuts.

Now... it's time to get dirty! - well, full of grease anyway. My grease of choice for this job...





Pack the center of the hub, between where the 2 bearings sit with grease



I won't go into how to pack bearings with grease... There are plenty of tools, or YouTube videos on how to do that. Install the rear packed bearing, and install the new rear grease seal.





Once you have that done, reinstall the rotor/hub assembly on the vehicle. Make sure you smear a little grease on the lip of the rear seal before installing



Then install the outer bearing



And then the ring nut



Hand tighten the nut while turning the rotor

You need a special tool to tighten the nut to spec. I opted to buy this one (which came with 4 prongs instead of 2), and to take my cut off tool to 2 of the prongs.





Use the tool to tighten the hub nut to 94-145 ft lbs per the manual. I like to do this in steps while turning the rotor in the early part to make sure the bearings seat properly.

Once torqued down, loosen the nut completely, and then re-torque to 18 ft lbs. Then, loosen 30 to 40 degrees (less than 1/8th turn).

According to the manual, you are then supposed to measure the amount of force it takes to turn the hub assy. I didn't personally bother, but if you have the tool, by all means go ahead. Spring scale reading should be 1.1 to 4 lbs.

Once all that is done, install the lock washer and install the 2 screws.