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overheating problem #1078116 05/19/15 04:33 AM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,527
Dave Scott Offline OP
Trail Leader
Ok, so anytime I spend 30 minutes or more in stop and go traffic, my radiator boils out. Got a new cap, didn't help, replaced the a/c fan, didn't help, replaced the thermostat, didn't help, replaced the fan clutch, didn't help, I think my belt might be a little loose, so I'm gonna tighten that next, my temp sensor never reads above normal. I don't understand what's going on. One thing I did notice is that there is no distinctive cold to hot change when touching the upper radiator hose when the thermostat should go from closed to open, but I only tested it immediately after installing it and haven't had time to do it again. Thermostat is easy and cheap, no biggie. But does anyone have any other ideas what could be happening?


95 Sportage w/welded and 5.89 geared dana 44's on 38.5" TSL's.- SADLY SOLD
CURRENTLY - 2000 sportage, 5.38 gears, welded diffs, 35" tires, 5.5" lift

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/341410
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Re: overheating problem [Re: Dave Scott] #1078117 05/19/15 05:45 AM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 326
Peabody Offline
Mudrunner
Not sure what to make of it. Seems you've covered the basic parts already. The replacement thermostat could be bad. You can pull it and drop it in boiling water to make sure it opens. I had a similar problem a few times.

One time I did some work on the engine and reinstalled the t-stat upside down (stupid, I know). Seemed to work fine on the road test, but quickly started to overheat when I got stuck in traffic and stayed hot after. That showed up on the temp gauge. I gimped it home real quick with the windows down and the heater blasting on high... in the middle of the summer. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

I had the ground wire connector on my electric fan fail (poor connection that torched the connector and wire). The fan stopped and the temp gauge read high every time I came to a stop... but it cooled off quick after I had the vehicle moving again. So I gimped it home by avoiding every stop light and "California stopping" at every stop sign on the way back... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

The last incident, which happened many years ago, involved coolant puking out of the overflow tank on my Chevy Sprint after driving for a short period of time. I only noticed it after I had stopped and smelled the hot coolant, which had blown all over the engine compartment. It never showed on the temp gauge unless the coolant level got pretty low in the radiator. It turned out to be a blown head gasket that caused a cylinder to pressurize the cooling system via the adjacent coolant passage. It was far more pressure than the radiator cap could handle, thus forcing coolant out of the radiator and the overflow... until there wasn't enough coolant left to blow out. Then it just blew out the residual in the reservoir and started to overheat. I didn't bother fixing that one. Instead, I topped off the coolant, drove it to a gas station next to the local Ford dealer, cooled down the engine and topped off the coolant again. Then I drove it to the dealer and traded it in for a new Ford Ranger. It helped to do the trade just before closing time. The sales people were more interested in going home than inspecting the 3-cylinder "beast"... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I don't think the AC fan would have been the culprit. It should only run when the AC is on. The clutch fan should be sufficient to cool the system at idle, as long as it is spinning normally at idle. Is this a problem that only occurs with the AC on?

I can't think of or have experienced anything else that might be suspect. Perhaps someone else has a thought? I'm curious to hear what it turns out to be...

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
Re: overheating problem [Re: Peabody] #1078118 05/19/15 06:36 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,527
Dave Scott Offline OP
Trail Leader
It steams out with the a/c off, boils out with the a/c on. Gonna switch the thermostat again, I read somewhere a full 44% of thermostats made are faulty to some degree. It's like 5 bucks so, no biggie. But I really hope I don't have a problem I read about another forum poster having years ago - a blockage in the cooling system.


95 Sportage w/welded and 5.89 geared dana 44's on 38.5" TSL's.- SADLY SOLD
CURRENTLY - 2000 sportage, 5.38 gears, welded diffs, 35" tires, 5.5" lift

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/341410
Re: overheating problem [Re: Dave Scott] #1078119 05/23/15 04:54 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,231
4x4Wire Offline
Trail Leader
***
Water pump or radiator are two likely points of problem. Check the cooling fins on the radiator as they do oxidize and loose ability to disappear heat. This is common in coastal or northern climates where you have a build up of salts.

Re: overheating problem [Re: 4x4Wire] #1078120 06/08/15 05:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 22
T
Tommychu Offline
Need a Spot
These Mazda lumps tend strongly toward mystery overheating when the HG fails too. It's an easy thing to test anyway, I like to use those coolant hydrocarbon testers with the indicator fluid but just starting it up with the rad cap off will tell you right away if it's really bad.
A PO may have used stop-leak too. Having a layer of wax through your water jackets in Texas heat would definitely cause issues.
Also, I don't mean to sound like a jerk but it sounds like you're engaging in shotgun diagnostics. All the parts you've replaced that didn't fix the problem were pretty easily testable. You'll save yourself a lot of money if you do a little poking around before ordering parts.

Last edited by Tommychu; 06/08/15 05:39 PM.
Re: overheating problem [Re: Dave Scott] #1078121 06/09/15 04:46 PM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 894
bombardj1 Offline
Rock Warrior
I would pull the thermostat then put the housing back on, see if there's flow, if not I would think radiator blockage or the water pump.

Re: overheating problem [Re: bombardj1] #1078122 06/10/15 06:25 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,527
Dave Scott Offline OP
Trail Leader
Thanks for the replies, I think I figured it out. The radiator is steaming out between the metal and plastic parts, the a/c fan from the junkyard isn't working at all, will check the fuse first, if it's fine, I'm just going to buy a new one instead of pulling another from the junkyard, and I haven't tested the thermostat yet, but I will do that this weekend, if its bad, I'll get another one. Thanks again. Trying to find an all metal radiator under $180, but no luck so far, any tips?


95 Sportage w/welded and 5.89 geared dana 44's on 38.5" TSL's.- SADLY SOLD
CURRENTLY - 2000 sportage, 5.38 gears, welded diffs, 35" tires, 5.5" lift

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/341410
Re: overheating problem [Re: Dave Scott] #1078123 06/11/15 02:55 AM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,224
Everet Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Didn't look to far and found this:
2 row Aluminum radiator
At that price it looks pretty good and it's 2 row!
Let us know what you think.
Everet
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


WWW.UPYOURKIA.COM White 96,4x4, man.hubs,K&N filter,3row rad, twin 16" fans, 3" body lift, 4" UPYOURKIA LIFT KIT,265/75 16 TreadWrights on DC2 wheels,140 amp alt. dual batts.
Re: overheating problem [Re: Everet] #1078124 06/11/15 08:51 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,231
4x4Wire Offline
Trail Leader
***
While an aluminum radiator is good for rapid heat dissipation, take a close look at your mounting points. I would mounting using a firm rubber cushion rather that metal to metal contact at the mounting points. Aluminum is noted for developing stress cracks when rigid mounts are used.

Re: overheating problem [Re: Dave Scott] #1078125 06/13/15 06:15 AM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 894
bombardj1 Offline
Rock Warrior
When you changed the clutch fan was it a new one? If not is the bi-metal spring still on the front? I had one break and the truck would over heat.

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