You will need a separate amp to power a subwoofer. Subwoofers need a lot of power.

If you are looking for a small amount of base look for a self powered subwoofer. They have a built in amp. You will still need to run RCA cables and power wires but not speaker wire.

Self powered subs
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Tn33WjLTaY8/g_51000/Powered-Subwoofers.html

Ok, basically what I'm looking for is sound quality similar to my 2013 optima, but I can't find any info on the web about what stereo components it has and I really don't want to start taking that one apart too, the wife would have a fit!


And then my next problem. I mentioned I overcharged the a/c system, at least I think I did, those stupid cns with the guages suck. Old one I had worked great, new one sucked. Anyway, the compressor is popping on and off constantly now, making a a think sound and it's not cooling as well as it did before. Is my compressor dying? Or do I need to redo the system charge from scratch?

Ok on the p0171 code, did a little research, I wasn't wrong for buying a fuel filter, but that code could also mean lots of other things need to be looked at too. So swapped the used filter AutoZone sold me, but haven't put it in yet, got the little $10 plastic tool to remove the filter line clips properly, but per that code, still need to check for vacuum leaks, O2 sensor problem, etc. What the code literally means is that the top O2 sensor is picking up too much oxygen. So, my cat could be bad too, one part at a time. We'll see.

So I got the speaker thing mostly figured out, got another set of the pioneers, turned my eq settings down and the volume up and it all sounds much better now. The a/c hasn't been clunking on and off lately, but it's been cooler weather. Also, the Las warm day, it wasn't cooling as well as it should have been, but today seemed fine, again, its cooler weather, so, difficult to know if there is still an issue or not. I have STILL NOT changed the fuel filter cuz I can't get those stupid clip connectors off the old one. Now my arms are all torn up from the charcoal canister mount and battery tray. I may just take it to the shop just to have them put it in for me.

Oh, and a few more changes to my lift and tire plans... I'm changing 2 things... Going to get the strut forks instead of spacers, still using the old Eibach springs in front, still using the Aerostar coils in rear, but going with a 33" tire instead of trying to both fit a 35 and pray that a 35 doesn't have me snapping axles constantly. I ran 32's for a long time on the first Sportage with the smaller rear shafts and fewer splines. I think a 33 will be a better choice for all around use and just the fact that if I ran the 35, I'd have to totally cut and patch all the sheet metal and body mounts behind the front wheels, I think I'll keep it 33 for now...

I'm up in Austin considering my options with my '99 EX. Your old sporty in your cardomain was awesome.

I don't suppose you know where that truck is now?



Just discovered on mine that the exhaust mani was cracked (probably because the exhaust pipe hanger below rusted away), and the gasket leaking at the ends. I'm guessing the crack and bad gasket let in illegal air, tricking the O2 sensor into thinking the exhaust is lean.

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1993-2002-sportage/207377-new-me-4x4-issues-10.html

Well, no, I don't know where it is, I wish I did, it would be less work to fix it than to start from scratch, plus, the last contact I had with the previous owner, he said he sold it to a friend who was not interested in parting with it.

Ok, so, updates, not sure how many of you might also be members of the Facebook page micro monsters, but everything's already posted over there.

First update p0171... It was just a cracked hose on the vacuum line going to the vacuum hubs, located on the back of the intake plenum. Since I already replaced with manuals, I just capped it, ripped all the rest of the system out and erased the code. Gone forever.

Second, I decided to go big or go home, 35's, so it took me a lot longer to get it all done. Sheet metal work, etc.

Put a knock off flowmaster on with 2.25" pipes, built a hidden receiver hitch this past weekend. Previously replaced the intake with aluminum pipe and a k&n.

Total lift: 5.5" in front and6.75" in rear. Unfortunately, the Ford Aerostar coils are taller than I thought. No biggie, worked out great. Also dropped the diff and lanyard. Went with LED headlight bulbs, but I hate them and will eventually still do the projectors, put LED light set into the plastic strip under the headlight, and both diffs are welded vs locked.

I still have a huge list of dodads, but its 90% ready for some real wheeling. 2 years later... Ps, check YouTube. My one and only video upload...

Nice vid Dave. Wow 5.5 inch in the front how's your upper A arm ball joints. They would be fully maxed out all the time wouldn't they?. Best thing I did to mine was fit the bullbar which gave me some down travel back in the front for when I go over speed bumps etc.

Did the 2 1/4 inch exhaust make much of a difference power wise?. I still have my extractors to fit up ad from turtles description it sound like 2 1/4 is the way to go if we keep the back pressure up
Have you fitted the 5.38's yet. I can't imagine running the 35's it would seem so slow to get moving. My 245's hurt enough now even with the 5.38's.

Look forward to the next instalment.

Cheers, Chris