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Changed Valve Lash Adjusters VLA but still noisy! #1101439 06/04/16 08:41 AM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 28
W
wilde Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Replaced all 24 VLA yet tapping noise continues at idle until 2,900 RPM and stays gone as long as above 2,900 RPMs.

Montero Limited 3.8L motor has 173,000 miles and has always run good and doesn't burn oil at all or leak much either.

Yes, I inspected the new VLAs and they seemed good, and I performed the 0-3,000 RPM flush-bleed upon replacement... 50+ times. Noise got a little better here and there for those 50 bleed cycles but never went away.

When the original VLAs started making noise about 500 miles ago the bleed cycle process would stop it for 2-3 days. And I'd only have to do about 13 cycles to make them quiet for those 2-3 days. That worked twice, maybe three times, and then it wouldn't go away so I figured a VLA was completely bad.

It sounds as though the same Valve Lash Adjusters are making the exact same noise as the replaced ones...Passenger side #3 Cylinder. Out of the 24 VLA only two were noticeably bad when I removed them...both from Cylinder #3 (the 2nd from firewall on Passenger side). One was exhaust and other was an intake. But the Exhaust VLA was very smashed up and Intake was only slightly.

When I did the VLA replacement I also changed plugs and noticed all the cylinder heads were very dirty with carbon. Took a flashlight and looked down spark hole. That's the only thing out of the ordinary I noticed. I also cleaned the rocker shafts and all the small oil ports...all seemed clean and clear.

Do you think #3 Cyl is so dirty that the valves are not seating and causing the Exhaust and Intake VLA to get banged up?

I thought about timing but it was redone 12,000 miles ago and if it was a slipped belt it would likely beat up all or at least several valves right?

Plus the noise totally stops at 2,900 to 3,100 RPM and then returns when RPMs drop below 2,900. I've tested it several times up to 5,000 RPM and it's quiet after 2,900 RPM while driving load or parked.

Any suggestions? I want to kick its windshield out and cut it in half right now!...20hrs and $300 of my time/$ maybe wasted.

My plan is to rinse my oil/crankcase system with 10w transmission fluid for 2 hours at idle and some RPMs also for short periods. Then add motor flush at double strength, if the 10w tranny fluid detergents don't work. And follow the instructions with the flush product. Finally change oil and filter and do a coolant back flush and refill also (because it's due).

If that doesn't stop noise then I'll add double strength fuel system cleaner to 10 gallons fuel and run that at mixed idle and high RPMs. Maybe that will clean carbon off valves and seats.

And lastly regardless if these work I'll add something like Blue Devil or Green Seal head gasket sealer to my fresh crankcase and fresh coolant to reinforce any weak areas I scrubbed too much with cleaners.

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Re: Changed Valve Lash Adjusters VLA but still noisy! [Re: wilde] #1101441 06/04/16 06:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 7,304
PajEvo Offline
Trail Leader
*****
Quick Q... did you bench bleed before putting them in place?

Re: Changed Valve Lash Adjusters VLA but still noisy! [Re: wilde] #1101442 06/04/16 07:47 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,508
ryany Offline
Body Damage is Cool
I think the trans fluid and motor flush idea is a good start. Did you change the oil when you replaced the VLAs? What weight oil are you using?

Water works really well to steam clean the carbon out of the combustion chambers - allow it to be sucked in slowly through a vacuum line or spray it directly into the inlet pipe. Far cheaper and more effective than adding anything to your fuel. If you feel that the water treatment isn't enough, pick up a can of GM Top Engine Cleaner - you'll feed that into the engine through a vacuum line and allow it to stall the engine as you reach the end of the can. After sitting for a while, restart the engine and revel in the mosquito-killing cloud of smoke it creates. Seafoam is supposed to work well in the same application but I have never used it that way.


95 Montero SR 3.5
OME shocks & springs, cranked torsion bars, 2" body lift, 3" gas tank lift, 4.90 gears, Aussie front locker, factory rear locker, Aisin manual hubs, Roger Brown Rock Sliderz, 315/75r16 (35") tires, 2 1/4" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler
Re: Changed Valve Lash Adjusters VLA but still noisy! [Re: wilde] #1101443 06/04/16 08:24 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 28
W
wilde Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
No I didn't bleed them. The originals and the new ones were all firm. I thought bleeding was only for diagnosis or cleaning. New ones were coated in oil and since Rock Auto sent no special directions I assumed they were ready to go. Plus there is the bleed (3,000 rpm revving) procedures that I thought would work if any were noisy and needed it post-install.

My oil is clean from last change 2,400 miles ago. I change at 3,000. It's a clean burning motor, as far as the oil appears. I was going to put in 16oz Seafoam first, run that 1/2 qt high/over until changed, and then do an additional rinse with 4 QTS tranny fluid. If noise still there, then I'll top it off with Motor Flush product with the tranny oil. Then drain and change filter, drop pan.

What vacuum line on the intake area is best for sucking in Seafoam?

Re: Changed Valve Lash Adjusters VLA but still noisy! [Re: wilde] #1101452 06/05/16 03:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 7,304
PajEvo Offline
Trail Leader
*****
My new ones were coated in oil and in sealed packages but I still saw a lot of air coming out of them when I bled them prior to installing. I still think that's the problem...if it's in fact the vla's that are clacking.

Re: Changed Valve Lash Adjusters VLA but still noisy! [Re: PajEvo] #1101453 06/05/16 05:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,508
ryany Offline
Body Damage is Cool
I'm thinking Phil's got it right, there's probably still air in the VLAs that's causing your noise - it's about the only thing that makes sense short of having a defective one right out of the box. I seem to recall that there's a procedure to bleed them in the FSM.

As far as the vacuum lines, you'll just need to identify one that will feed all the cylinders as equally as possible, so preferably one near the throttle body instead of on the intake manifold.


95 Montero SR 3.5
OME shocks & springs, cranked torsion bars, 2" body lift, 3" gas tank lift, 4.90 gears, Aussie front locker, factory rear locker, Aisin manual hubs, Roger Brown Rock Sliderz, 315/75r16 (35") tires, 2 1/4" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler
Re: Changed Valve Lash Adjusters VLA but still noisy! [Re: wilde] #1101466 06/06/16 04:47 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 28
W
wilde Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
I posted another topic to explain what happened. The NEW timing belt kit I used failed and the tensioner didn't last more then 12,000 miles. Causing the belt slap that EXACTLY mimics the VLA failure and noise symptoms.

What a pain. Don't buy the crap from CNS Auto Parts, eBay vendor. The kit was $105...came with belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, and associated gaskets for pump and valve covers.

What brand should I use to replace?

Re: Changed Valve Lash Adjusters VLA but still noisy! [Re: wilde] #1101470 06/06/16 10:17 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,508
ryany Offline
Body Damage is Cool
OEM is the only belt tensioner that I would use - what's at stake if it fails just isn't worth the cost savings of buying an aftermarket part.


95 Montero SR 3.5
OME shocks & springs, cranked torsion bars, 2" body lift, 3" gas tank lift, 4.90 gears, Aussie front locker, factory rear locker, Aisin manual hubs, Roger Brown Rock Sliderz, 315/75r16 (35") tires, 2 1/4" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler







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