not sure if your talking bout mine or his but mine came off a full size truck its about 30 years old. These worm gear winches are awesome very slow but like the m.m. hyd. winches you can just rip houses down all day long without a break and they don't care, only thing is our alts can't keep up with them or any winch so all day winching is out.
first off, TJM is very rare to even find on a vehicle. Second, you found one at a junk yard. Third, you got it for $50!! You were extremely lucky! Sweet find for sure! Glad to see you aren't wasting any time. Is that the new "Marn" winch? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
Yeah I'm kind of jealous!!! I wish I got my new TJM for $50! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />
I bought a harbor freight winch and winch plate, then cut the plate in such a way that the "L" shaped pieces cut off each end stand up vertically (and get welded on). I bolted the flat plate to the bottom of the frame at the factory winch mount holes, and I bolted the new 'uprights' to the inner sides of the frame at the factory weld-nuts there. those require half-inch spacers because the frame rails get narrow right there. I used some short pieces of pipe "temporarily" for several years and haven't had the need to put a flat piece of half-inch steel in there like I intended. I have used this setup to winch the Raider out stuck good a few times and some other trucks mildly stuck and a whole bunch of weird / fun utility stuff. A note about the old HF winch I got; they made their own solenoid switching assembly, it's pretty beefy with thick brass plates and contactors. It only uses two solenoids in a push/pull arrangement and that's how it can reverse. The whole switching can be rebuilt using only a small flat-blade screwdriver. I remotely mounted the solenoids under the hood so the winch would fit under the Raider body. I still had to trim the plastic winch clutch lever a tiny bit but I had no issues with that** I have a 2-inch body lift now, so there's plenty of room, but It fit before the body lift (barely**) with half-inch shims to lower the winch frame. (removed shims after body lift installed).
-almost forgot, I had to cut about 3/4 inch off the rear of the factory front tow hook to get my plate to fit. I used a sawsall patiently and it was super clean. sorry, no close up pic of that. maybe tomorrow in the light.
I'll attach a bunch of pics of it. Sorry they're at night with a flashlight, but I think they get the important info across.
PS this is an old thing, I just am getting back into my Raider and am catching up on some stuff I always meant to share.
Last edited by djacidjac; 02/03/1805:23 AM.
87 Dodge Raider 5sp 2.6l no jet valves, Tuffpan OME Dakar leaf springs + T-bar crank + 2" body lift (4" lift). 5500lb winch, Starion alternator, grp31 marine bat' OBA (stock AC compressor) 33x12.5x15 Baja Claws or Wintermark extra load 235/75/15 M/S
last 1 pic oh, bonus!; I used an old body mount bushing as a cushion between the hook and the fairlead so I just pull the winch in untill it snugs and all good. no rust or noise and no hook yanked against a d-ring or anything. looks tidy too. This setup could use some reinforcing on the bumper/fairlead, but, you know, I'll get right on that.
87 Dodge Raider 5sp 2.6l no jet valves, Tuffpan OME Dakar leaf springs + T-bar crank + 2" body lift (4" lift). 5500lb winch, Starion alternator, grp31 marine bat' OBA (stock AC compressor) 33x12.5x15 Baja Claws or Wintermark extra load 235/75/15 M/S
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