Hi All, Just wanted to say a quick hi. I've been reading through the archives for a while as my member ship was getting approved. I just bought an 89 Montero LWB this last weekend that is in amazing shape. It's my first one, so I'm in the process of going over it with the manuals I found on this site. The initial goal is to get it caught up on all of the prior maintenance and enjoy it as a daily driver. Short list of initial items: Oil Change Trans fluid drain & Fill (Mitsu SP3 Fluid) Coolant Flush Fuel filter - OEM Chassis Lube
This is still the most thorough site for Monteros.
Your Monty is super clean, makes me a little jealous.
1988 Mighty Max turbo 2.6 service body 1980 Power Wagon W400 Sundry Mitsubishi Montero Gen 1 parts, Gen 1 and Gen 2 Max parts Parts vehicles: 89 LS Montero 4-door, 2002 Sport AWD For Sale: 1989 Power Ram 50 extended cab, #277 Montero
Hi Russell, Thanks for the welcome. It's surprisingly clean and the build quality is impressive too. I have some work getting some of the previous work resolved to return it to factory. So far I've just been going through the maintenance items with the FSM. Cold compression was decent @ 130PSI on the 2 cylinders I checked, I'll get the rest when I replace the plugs.
I've ordered the OEM pan gasket & filter for the trans and the OEM radiator cap. The SP3 fluid I picked up from Mitsubishi dealer is ATF SP-III (MZ320200), which I believe is different from what was originally specified for these. I need to do some research on what is the correct fluid for the transmission.
Also, the PO replaced the radiator with on that has plastic tanks and I believe aluminum fins. I'd like to go back to the factory design, but need to post a wanted ad for my increasing list of items. I'm running my 2nd batch of Blue Devil cleaner with distilled water in the current cooling system to loosen all the rust up. I still need to find the block drains so I can make sure that area is clear of any deposits.
So for now, I'll just keep driving back and forth to work and let that coolant flush do it's work.
Cooling is important. When you find a radiator, look at the depth of the top and bottom tanks vs. the depth of the core. For some reason, Mitsubishi used 2 row cores with the tanks able to handle a 3 row core. I don't know if this was just a North America thing. Anyway, you should be able to have the 2 row core replaced with a 3 row core. This should give you somewhere about 30% more cooling surface. Along with more fluid capacity.
Hi All, I just wanted to follow up to this thread regarding the rust in my coolant. So far I have done the following since I purchased the vehicle back in March listed in order: - 2 rounds of Blue Devil Cleaner flush - 3 rounds of fill and drain with water on warm engine and thermostat open (dumb idea) - Backflush of coolant system with garden hose through Tee installed by previous owner in the heater core hose. Started engine and ran until water out of radiator was clear. - Added 16oz/1gal mix of Sulfamic acid to remove mineral deposits. Ran without thermostat for ~3hrs on highway. Allowed to cool and drained from lower radiator hose - Added 16oz/1gal mix of Oxalic acid to remove rust deposits. Ran without thermostat for ~3hrs on highway. Allowed to cool and drained from lower radiator hose. Did this twice - Neutralization with 16oz/1gal mix of washing soda and run for 15min to mix and then drained when cool. - Removed aftermarket radiator and did backflush on cold engine through the tee in heater core line. Let water run for ~15-30min. Plugged lower radiator hose so that coolant came out of bypass hose connections. - Poured (2) gallons of distilled water into the tee on heater core hose to displace the existing tap water from block. - Installed recently rodded OEM radiator and all new radiator hoses, heater core hoses and coolant bypass hose. - Added 1 gallon of straight Green antifreeze. Allowed to mix with existing straight water in the block and then topped off with 50/50 mix until all air was bled out.
I ran with this configuration for a few days and I'm getting a significant amount of rust sludge floating in the top of my coolant when I remove cap and also it is stuck to the bottom of the cap. Attached is a picture after 2days of driving. Is it possible that the coolant loosened up rust that was stuck in the block? I would think that after all of the efforts listed above this would have all been clear or I would have seen just a little bit.
I thought about that initially, but they seem to be clumps of rust particles that are stuck together. I pulled one out this morning that was size of marble When they are pulled out the coolant/water dries and they are powdery. I'd think that if it was oil they would stay oily.
Chad, some years ago I owned an International Scout with the 345 V8 engine. It had a rust problem very similar to yours, and it took me at least a couple of years of frequent flushes to get rid of it all. I think the stuff you're seeing has been loosened up from the treatments you've been giving it; I'd suggest continuing the flushes. If my experience is any guide, it will get better.
Hi Grant, Thanks for the feedback and I think you might be right. I'm probably a little pissed that I finally bought some "clean" new antifreeze and it's all contaminated. I'll probably just have to put a flush every 3mo on my calendar and do it regularly. Any chance that this rust powder could clog up an important passageway in the heads etc? That's probably my biggest fear.
It would be nice to add some coolant filtration like the diesel guys do, but I haven't looked at whether anyone has done that before.
Coolant passages are pretty big; if they weren't already plugged, I don't think you'll have a problem now. The two places I'd worry about are the thermostat and radiator. If you find your engine not cooling as well (temperature going up), look at those first.
BTW, I'm pretty sure that those clumps are caused by silica deposits. I'd be willing to bet the previous owner poured in a can (or two or three) of "stop leak", which is composed largely of silica, before he finally broke down and replaced his leaking radiator. That stuff settles and collects rust just like you're experiencing. You're doing the engine a favor by getting it out.
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