Hi All, Last weekend I took the Montero to a U-Pull to pick up a bunch of parts (Radiator, Fan Shroud, Equalizer Radio, Tail lights, Skid Plates, Inclinometer Gage Cluster). It was a pretty good day! The trip was 2.5hrs each way, mostly highway. The temps were in the low 90's and I cruised at ~70mph on the way there without issue. Got all of my parts pulled and then started the trip home. About 1hr in while cruising at ~75mph (spent a little too much time at yard ) I noticed that my A/T Temp light came on. I slowed down to the shoulder and let it idle to allow transmission fluid to cool off. I idled for ~20min and light didn't come off, so I drove at very low speeds (~20mph) on a side road and after a minute the light went off and stayed off for the rest of the drive home. As you can see in the attached picture my coolant temp was low. For the remainder of the trip I kept my speed under 65mph. My transmission fluid was between the MAX/MIN lines on the HOT section of the dipstick while I was cooling, had a light honey color to it and didn't smell burnt. I'm not sure what fluid the PO had in it when I bought it.
Following this incident, I'd like to change out the fluid to SPIII and install a new screen in the transmission pan. I have ~200k on my transmission and don't see any indications that it has been rebuilt in the past. What I'm trying to figure out is if I should do a drain & fill and then drive for a while to allow the fresh fluid to loosen any build-up to get caught in the pan screen. Then after I have driven for a while I would drop the pan and clean it all out. I would coincide this screen change with the installation of the OEM radiator I got at junkyard in place of the cheapo plastic tank unit currently there.
Does the plan above make sense for a starting point? I'm starting to read through the FSM, but I don't see much information regarding the A/T Temp light other than it identifies the transmission fluid is >122F.
I dropped off the OEM radiator I had pulled at the yard to get rodded out and the AT cooler at the bottom cleaned out. Once I get that back, planning to install and do a filter/fluid change on the Montero to start fresh. Then probably ~5k mi, will drop the pan again and clean out any new debris caught in the screen.
Well after a relatively productive evening of removing the aftermarket radiator, hacked shroud, OEM fan & clutch (still working) I proceeded to drop the A/T pan to change out filter screen.
Once I was done wishing ill fate on the 89 dipstick engineer and hoping that was the last project he worked on (~2ft extension w/17mm socket & swivel... ) I was able to swing the pan out of the way and remove the filter screen. The screen was holding all of the fluid behind it when I dropped it out so I think there is some clogged pores to the screen, but nothing noticeable to the naked eye. Picture is attached. What I also noticed is the MD609189 replacement screen I picked up off eBay does not match the bolt spacing for the one I have (It fits 90-94). Checking the 89 Raider catalog the p/n is MD609041...
By the way, how does anyone get the 17mm bolt back in to secure the dipstick tube during re-assembly?
The transmission pan gasket had a silvery colored sealant on the gasket, is there any specific recommendation or just ATF compatible from parts store?
1988 Mighty Max turbo 2.6 service body 1980 Power Wagon W400 Sundry Mitsubishi Montero Gen 1 parts, Gen 1 and Gen 2 Max parts Parts vehicles: 89 LS Montero 4-door, 2002 Sport AWD For Sale: 1989 Power Ram 50 extended cab, #277 Montero
Hi All, Just a slight delay in the re-assembly. The (3) orders I placed with Mitsubishiparts.com were cancelled due to parts not being available and one of them including the filter screen, so I'm looking for a few items:
- Transmission Screen (MD609041) - Can this be re-used following a backflush with carb cleaner and compressed air? I gave in and ordered a replacement from NAPA. - Transmission Screen Gasket x2 (MB896470) - These were very brittle and started to come apart while removing the screen. I cannot find these anywhere, does anyone see an issue with tracing & cutting a new one from gasket sheet? - Rear Transmission Mount (MB581620) - Rubber is very soft, found an aftermarket through NAPA
I'll keep browsing the internet, see what I can find.
Also, Regarding the transmission mount, mine appears to have been missing a bolt. Can anyone help identify the item number for the bolt that is supposed to go into #33 in the attached picture?
It’s finally back together!!! I was able to get the following done: - dropped transmission pan and replaced filter screen. Very little “sludge” on the magnets in the pan. - disassembled all of the shifter linkages and cleaned and lubricated all the pivot points per FSM. - learned about the handy dipstick o-ring and not needing to remove 17mm bolt from backside of block....🤯 - fresh fill of 5qts of SPIII, it’s all I had. Will check level after driving. - new OEM heater core hoses and clamps - new upper, lower and bypass coolant hoses with OEM clamps - OEM clamps on the trans cooler lines (can you tell I hate band clamps yet...?) - rodded radiator and factory shroud with gasket between shroud and radiator. - OEM radiator cap - OEM rear trans mount.
The FSM was great with torque values and general schematics for reassembly. I have the old aftermarket radiator and shroud free to good home. Would prefer to not ship it.
Also, I’m looking for the boot on the end of the shift linkage with the springs.
I drove in to work today and Montero operated great. No leaks and I ran defrost to ensure I had the coolant circulating 100%, topped off radiator with some pre-mix once it cooled. With the transmission warm, it looks like I'm ~1qt low, so I'll pick some more up to get the level right. I through I recalled that the drain & fill is ~5qts, so I must have lost some more by dropping the pan and disconnecting the cooler for the radiator replacement.
One thing I'll note is that I did (2) Oxalic Acid flushes of the coolant system (ran for ~3hrs ea) before I installed this radiator and back-flushed the system with engine running (cold) until the water ran clear and even now, I still have some red "rust powder" in my coolant. I'm guessing it will just have to be there until I rebuild the engine and have the block hot tanked with the freeze plugs removed.
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