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Rebuild a Power Steering Pump #1104773
01/03/19 08:49 PM
01/03/19 08:49 PM
B
Bigshankhank  Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 42
Tampa Bay Area
Mine's leaking pretty badly, so I bought an AC Delco seal kit fro rockauto and plan to remove and reseal it this weekend (if not next). Any advice or read-throughs available?


1989 Dodge Raider V6
2001 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
2008 Toyota 4-Runner SR5 4wd
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Re: Rebuild a Power Steering Pump [Re: Bigshankhank] #1104781
01/04/19 09:45 PM
01/04/19 09:45 PM
MarkG  Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,312
Scaly Mountain, NC, USA *****
I don't recall any taking on a power steering pump rebuild. Here is a chance to start one. Take some pictures along the way. I'm sure others will find it helpful.


89 6G72 Raider 2dr, ARB Bullbar, Warn Winch, Aisin Hubs, 31x10.5, Cobra CB, Hella Fogs, Bilsteins, PAJERO Badges, Misc AU/EU Parts

98 6G72 Montero Sport, R D Lock, 31x10.5

02 6G74 Montero Limited
Re: Rebuild a Power Steering Pump [Re: MarkG] #1104786
01/05/19 04:15 PM
01/05/19 04:15 PM
B
Bigshankhank  Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 42
Tampa Bay Area
Originally Posted by MarkG
I don't recall any taking on a power steering pump rebuild. Here is a chance to start one. Take some pictures along the way. I'm sure others will find it helpful.

Guess so, going to try and find a parts diagram so at least I am not totally blind going in to this.

BTW I am resealing this, not rebuilding.


1989 Dodge Raider V6
2001 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
2008 Toyota 4-Runner SR5 4wd
Re: Rebuild a Power Steering Pump [Re: Bigshankhank] #1104846
02/11/19 01:22 AM
02/11/19 01:22 AM
B
Bigshankhank  Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 42
Tampa Bay Area
Got this done this weekend, surprisingly simple but there are a few sticking points. I’ll put up a write up tomorrow, and I shot a ton of video so hopefully I can figure out how to put them all together and make them cohesive.


1989 Dodge Raider V6
2001 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
2008 Toyota 4-Runner SR5 4wd
Re: Rebuild a Power Steering Pump [Re: Bigshankhank] #1104853
02/12/19 12:49 AM
02/12/19 12:49 AM
B
Bigshankhank  Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 42
Tampa Bay Area
Refer to the attachments for parts diagrams.
Here's what it took to re-seal the power steering pump on an '89 Raider SWB with a 3.0l V6 engine w/ 5-speed manual transmission.
Tools needed;
Seal kit
Replacement PS belt
3/8" ratchet
10mm, 12mm, 14mm & 17mm sockets
Pliers
Large crescent wrench
Snap ring or piston ring tool
Bench vice
Heat gun or small butane torch
Flat head screwdriver or small pry bar
1” drift or 1” socket
Dental picks
Drain pans (2)
Shop rags
Cleaner
Wire brush
Gasket sealer

Caution-Some cleaners can be pretty caustic, so protect your eyes and skin from exposure. Some pieces inside the pump are small, can dislodge and become lost, so keep a clean work area with plenty of light to help minimize lost parts. Also, some parts are spring loaded so be extra cautious with these items.
The obvious first step is to remove the existing pump from its mounting bracket on the front passenger side of the engine.
-Drain the power steering fluid reservoir by whatever means you find easiest. I loosened the supply line by removing the spring clamp and allowing the fluid to drain in to a catch pan below.
-Use a 17mm socket and remove the nut and washer from the banjo fitting on the pressure line (that goes to the PS box on the steering shaft). There will be more fluid draining from this line, also.
-Turn the engine crank until the two oblong holes in the PS pump pulley line up with the two mounting bolts on the front of the pump body. Use a 14mm socket to remove these two bolts.
-Use the 14mm socket to loosen the mounting bolt on the back of the pump body. This will allow you to relieve tension on the belt and slip it off of the pulley. Once the belt is off, go ahead and remove the mounting bolt completely and the pump can be lifted out of its bracket. Also at this stage, take the new oil seal out of the package and place it in the freezer. This will cause it to shrink slightly and will make installation easier, when you get to that point
-I kept the pump assembly in a drain pan as it will continue to drain fluid until it has been completely disassembled and cleaned.
-Go over the entire assembly with some wire brushes as there will inevitably be some accumulated gunk. Liberally use spray cleaner to get the surfaces as clean as possible.
-Once the outside is as clean as can be reasonably attained, use the 10mm socket to remove the bolts holding the supply feed tube plate (25). There is a small o-ring on the back of this, discard it. Fluid will likely come out behind this.
-Next, clamp the assembly in a bench vice and, using the 12mm socket loosen and remove the four bolts holding the back plate (20) on the assembly. More fluid will come out.
-Set the backplate aside, remove the odd-shaped o-ring (16) from its groove (or from the backing plate if it stuck) and trash it.
-Using snap ring or piston ring spreaders, with the help of the dental pick if necessary, remove the circlip (19) from the end of the pulley shaft. Discard the old circlip.
-Slide the pulley shaft (24) down and out of the pump body. Inspect the shaft for signs of wear.
-Gently wiggle the case (18) up and off of the pump body and set aside. Remove the other odd-shaped o-ring (16) and trash it.
-There are two parts of the cartridge (17) though the parts diagram shows it as one piece, there is a oblong collar and a round center piece with individual "blades" within it. Make note that the central part of the cartridge has a top face and bottom face. The top face has a small hole on the surface which the bottom face does not. Also, the top face has a slight recess around the splines. The assembly will not work if the cartridge is installed upside down. Lift the outer collar of the cartridge up and off of its guide pins, then gently remove the cartridge (17), taking care not to allow any of the individual plates to fall out. If they do, be aware that there is a rounded face and a square face on the narrow edges of each one. The square face needs to orient in to the center of the cartridge so that the rounded face faces out.
-Lastly, using either a deep well socket or a large crescent wrench, loosen and remove the joint package (8). Be aware that the flow control valve (11) behind it is spring loaded and will pop out upon removing the joint package. Remove the four o-rings on the joint making note of their different sizes and which one goes where, then discard the old o-rings.
-Heat the pump body around the oil seal (14) and use a flat head screwdriver or a small pry bar around the entire circumference working it up and out a little at a time. Take your time and add heat as necessary to keep the metal hot and expanded. Discard the old oil seal.
-Thoroughly clean all parts.
-If you want to repaint the pump, now is the time to do so, otherwise proceed with reassembly.
-Again heat the body of the pump around the oil seal. Take the new seal out of the freezer, lightly smear fresh power steering fluid around the edges of it and using a drift press it in to place. Be sure to get it fully seated as deeply as possible.
-Lightly smear fresh PS fluid on the shaft of the pulley and gently slide it through the new oil seal until it is fully inserted.
-Align the splines on the cartridge with those on the shaft and gently press the cartridge onto the shaft until it rests on the pump body.
-Gently install the new circlip into the groove on the end of the shaft. Be careful not to stretch the clip too much or it will not sit completely within its groove.
-Use a few small dabs of gasket sealer to hold the new o-ring on the case. Don’t overdo it with the sealer, just a small dab in each of the areas where the o-ring bends will be sufficient.
-Slide the case back down on its guide pins with the o-ring facing down.
-Again use a few small dabs of gasket sealer to hold the 2nd o-ring on the case.
-Place the back cover of the pump on the case, being sure to align the guide pins, the end of the shaft, and the o-ring.
-Re-install the four bolts and tighten evenly in a criss-cross pattern. Tighten to 15-18 ftlbs.
-Install new o-rings on the joint package.
-Slide the spring back on to the end of flow control valve and slide it in to its port in the body.
-Compress the end of the flow control valve and spring with the joint package and screw it in to place. This will bottom out, so I am not sure what the torque spec is.
-Re-install the o-ring on the inlet flow tube and reinstall it on the pump body. Tighten to 12ftlbs.
-Re-install the pump assembly into its bracket on the engine, re-install the belt and set its tension per the manual.
-Install the banjo bolt on the flow control valve and tighten the nut to secure it. I do not know the toque spec for this.
-Fill the pump assembly with fresh fluid before reattaching the inlet hose.
-Reattach the inlet hose, fill the fluid reservoir. Follow the service manual instructions for bleeding fluid throughout the power steering system.

All-in I figure this could be done in about two hours unless you are going to re-paint it. Considering I was flying blind (and installed the cartridge upside down which caused the entire assembly to bind once I put it all back together so I had to take it all back apart and in the process dropped about 1/2 of the little blades out of the cartridge and had to slowly reinstall each one individually) I was maybe five hours from taking the pump out of the truck to reinstalling it. I shot a bunch of video which I will try to edit together and post up a YouTube link as well.

Last edited by Bigshankhank; 02/12/19 03:41 AM.

1989 Dodge Raider V6
2001 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
2008 Toyota 4-Runner SR5 4wd

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