Time to clean up the locking hubs.



Remove the snap ring holding everything together



Once apart, clean all the parts. There is another snap ring holding the remaining parts together.





Reassemble the reverse way, and apply a thin layer of grease to all the parts.

If you keep the dust shield like I did, you'll probably need to bend up the lip for clearance a little.



Install the Caliper bracket, caliper, and pads. Be sure to put a thin layer of grease on the pad hardware.



I also use grease on the back of the pads to help eliminate any brake squeal.



And... Installed!

Install the locking hub body.



Install the circlip to the end of the axle. PLEASE NOTE that it only goes on one way. There is a flat and rounded side to the circlip. It's been a while since I did this, but if I remember correctly, the flat side faces out toward you.



If you take apart the locking mechanism, PLEASE note that there is a little detent ball and spring. DON'T lose them!



Reinstall the locking hub mechanism, and you're nearly done.

I neglected to take many pictures of my brake line setup, but here are some stock pictures, and a couple of actual pictures of what I used, and where.

For the caliper, Earl's Performance 592032ERL Fittings:



For where the hard line comes down into the wheel well area, Earl's 989538ERL or 989545ERL fitting:



Used here:



and then used a -3an stainless line with a 90 degree bend on one end (caliper end). The ones I got were 21" long. You could probably get away with 18", as long as one end has the 90 degree bend.





This all eliminates the 3 piece brake line setup that is stock. I ran the stainless line through the bracket, wrapped some electrical tape on it to prevent vibration from wearing through it, and zip tied it tight.

Now, because the volume of the 2-piston calipers is so much greater, you really need to replace the master cylinder with the upgraded one as well. Because the stock master cylinder has a brake tee built into it, and the new one doesn't, you'll have to adapt. I got one of these:



It's advertised on Ebay and Amazon as a VW Dune Buggy part, but it's just a metric (10mm x 1mm) brake line tee.

Then, with another pair of the Earl's Performance 592032ERL Fittings and a 9" -3an Stainless Line, here is the finished install:





Properly bleed the brakes (have a VERY large container of brake fluid on hand). Start with the rear, and then the passenger front, then driver's front.

Done!! Enjoy your new braking power!

Awesome write-up. The MS backing plates wouldn't work for the Gen I hub? Curious about that. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I believe they do, from other things I have seen on the forums, but I just didn't bother.

Great write up - this should be a sticky; looking forward to getting this done myself shortly

Great write up, used your directions for my 91 LWB brake conversion.

Thanks! Didn't see this until now. Glad my write up helped.