As I find useful tech over at MMUSA on FB I will be bringing it here so it can be found. Hopefully getting the tech here will be something the nuggets will realize makes it worth it to come here. So with that said, this is a post written by Çaģri Atilla Balkan;

As many already know, these throttle bodies have a Fast Idle Air Valve (FIAV) allowing coolant to flow in and out, warming the throttle plate. Since this is essentially a glorified thermostat, the wax wears away over time, and once it’s stuck open, you end up having coolant constantly flowing in and out causing all sorts of issues. My 6G72 12-valve would run at 2,750 rpm on a cold start, then even out at 1,300 rpm once it hit operating temperature. In cold or high humidity environments, the FIAV helps prevent icing of the throttle plate, but where I’m at, I don’t have to worry about either of those.

I was determined to replace the FIAV, but $265 was a bit steep for something I’m almost never going to need. I’ll probably still end up buying one at some point, but for now I ended up doing what a lot of 3000GT and Evo owners do; bypass it. Some folks block it off altogether, canceling out the IAC valve, which might be alright on a race car. Others reroute the hoses, and some Russian Pajero folks even went as far as dismantling the FIAV to tighten the plate shut with the spring compressed all the way. I just got the $19.99 special; a bypass plate which still allows the IAC to function while eliminating the FIAV.

The parts list:

• FIAV bypass plate
• FIAV gasket (MD614406)
• Throttle body idle adjustment screw (MD614948)
• Throttle body idle adjustment screw O-ring (MD608806)
• Throttle body idle adjustment screw cap (MD614532)
• Throttle body gasket (MD184046)
• M5 x 0.8 x 35 bolts (4)
• M5 x 0.8 x 20 bolt (1)
• Anti-seize compound
• Multi-purpose synthetic grease

After pulling off the throttle body assembly, I let it sit overnight in undiluted Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner. This stuff is aluminum safe and even Boeing approved! It came out looking like new the next day, but the 22-year-old Philips screws were still pretty much welded on. Managed to get two of them out with a pair of locking pliers but had to get the Dremel out for the others. The new bolts are 8 mm hex, although the short one I got ended up being a T-20.

The O-ring on the idle adjustment screw was shot, and since its plastic, I got a new screw just in case I had an unpleasant surprise. Mine never had a cap either, so I got one too.

I put everything back together, applying a bit of anti-seize on the threads (my favorite is Loctite N-5000, which is high purity nickel-based for nuclear powerplants). Dissimilar metals don’t go together and the whole mess cutting out the bolts could have been eliminated with this stuff. Also put a light layer of grease on the gaskets.

Adjusted the TPS using a 0.65 mm feeler gauge and making sure I got no continuity (OL) on pins 3 and 4 before tightening it down, then put everything back on the truck. While it didn’t shoot up to 2,750 rpm on a stone-cold engine this time, I let it idle until it hit operating temperature and adjusted the throttle body idle adjustment screw.

When cold, it now idles at ~1,250 rpm and at operating temperature it’s at 700 rpm; just like it did when new. Turn the AC on, and it goes up to 900 rpm. Mission accomplished! No more "Whoa horse, whoa!!" the moment you put it in gear. 😁

I'm still working on figuring out how to post the pictures themselves on here.i apologize .

This is a perfect example of a technical write-up, with the exception of getting the pics attached. I wish they were all this well done and informative.

Very good info. Minus the pics.

Sweetness. Great post. Thanks!

Wow! Ok. So the pics take a minute to show up. But they are there. On to the next important post. 70+ pics on it.

Wow! Ok. So the pics take a minute to show up. But they are there. On to the next important post. 70+ pics on it.

Of note, the great thing about doing it this way. For youse guys in colder climes, it allows you to keep the water flow set-up on your truck. On mine, down here in Florida, we don't have lasting cold. I just used a flat plate to block mine of, and looped the water inlet hose. When it does get cold for like the mornings, it runs rich enough to be able to smell it as opposed to when it's warm. So it's running rich until it warms up. Plus those of you with a visual inspection by your State, nothing appears to be messed up with.

I may try this while mine is broke down at the moment.
If I can delete it all.