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#194815 - 01/11/03 03:47 PM BADLY Need diagnostic help!  
1987Raider  Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,085
Kentucky
I've already figured out that I seem to have a bad AAP (won't hold vac, got gas when I pulled vac). I've plugged this line (both ways) and here is what the Raider is still doing:
1. 10mpg.
2. While driving if I depress the gas too far, ENGINE DIES, it restarts as soon as I let off the gas, with a big puff of BLACK smoke.
3. Begins to MISS wildly at almost exactly 3000 rpms and above while driving, does not do this sitting still. Really won't pull past 3000 rpms unless going down hill.
4. Plugs - no oil, electrodes are gray, insulator dark, looks to show flooding (could be from AAP).
5. Starts good, idles perfectly pretty much all the time. Oil pressure fine, timing at 7 degrees BTDC, compression good,engine sounds good (except as described above). No coolant use, oil clean.
Thats about it -- I'm going to pick up a carb rebuild kit this moring, but I would really appreciate any advise on what the proble could be (and if rebuild will probabley fix it). <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

<small>[ January 11, 2003, 10:00 AM: Message edited by: 1987Raider ]</small>


1987 Raider 2.6L Auto -- rebuilt, by hand, by me -- Bouncy Seat/LSD/Aisin Hubs -- CB/Whip Antenna --Jensen Stereo -- Fire extinguisher .

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#194816 - 01/12/03 06:01 AM Re: BADLY Need diagnostic help!  
Kevin C  Offline
Trail Leader
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 6,131
Portland OR ****
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by 1987Raider:
<strong>I've already figured out that I seem to have a bad AAP (won't hold vac, got gas when I pulled vac). I've plugged this line (both ways) and here is what the Raider is still doing:
1. 10mpg.
2. While driving if I depress the gas too far, ENGINE DIES, it restarts as soon as I let off the gas, with a big puff of BLACK smoke.
3. Begins to MISS wildly at almost exactly 3000 rpms and above while driving, does not do this sitting still. Really won't pull past 3000 rpms unless going down hill.
4. Plugs - no oil, electrodes are gray, insulator dark, looks to show flooding (could be from AAP).
5. Starts good, idles perfectly pretty much all the time. Oil pressure fine, timing at 7 degrees BTDC, compression good,engine sounds good (except as described above). No coolant use, oil clean.
Thats about it -- I'm going to pick up a carb rebuild kit this moring, but I would really appreciate any advise on what the proble could be (and if rebuild will probabley fix it). <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">This sounds similar to what my carb did... The bowl vent hangs open and lets atmospheric pressure into the bowl. Under normal driving the bowl needs to be at the same pressure as the area above the venturi or the motor goes rich from the pressure drop across the air cleaner.

The standard test is to block off the bowl vent from the carb and see how it runs.

Look at the small pipe from the carb that is bolted onto the valve cover and ends connected to the charcoal canister. Disconnect one end and plug it so no air can get to the carb.

If that cures it you have a bad bowl vent system.

Rob can give you the details on fixing it.

Kevin C


87 Turbo Intercooled Raider, roller cam, torsen rear diff, LSD front diff, lockup auto with modified converter, V6 brakes, low transfer case gears...

#194817 - 01/12/03 06:12 AM Re: BADLY Need diagnostic help!  
Anonymous
Unregistered

1987...I've been having the same problem your decribing. Engine idles fine and will run 80 as long as I just ease up to it but if I get on the gas kind of hard I can feel it start to lose power right around 3000 rpm and if I don't change gears or let off the gas it will just die. Seems to get worse the hotter the engine. I'am really getting tired of popping the clutch to restart when trying to merge onto the highway. Can't wait to hear the responses to yours so I can get some insight to my problem.

Would a failing fuel pump cause this problem at the same rpm all the time or would it happen throughout the power band?


#194818 - 01/12/03 06:25 AM Re: BADLY Need diagnostic help!  
Anonymous
Unregistered

My '88 did the same... its running WAY too rich, hence the black smoke and poor mileage. I tried the bowl vent plug and it helped but not a lot, so I replaced the carb with a $400 Autozone unit and no further problems. I think the same carb I had is now $300.


#194819 - 01/12/03 04:29 AM Re: BADLY Need diagnostic help!  
1987Raider  Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,085
Kentucky
Rebuild kit didn't come in -- waited in town because "it should be in on the 3:00 truck (after promised on the 8:30 truck) -- didn't show at all. It should be in Monday. Spent the rest of day tracing vac lines. I'll try pluging the line to the canister tomorrow and see what happens. Really tempted to buy and rebuild a Caravan carb and install....get rid of the"feedback" stuff!


1987 Raider 2.6L Auto -- rebuilt, by hand, by me -- Bouncy Seat/LSD/Aisin Hubs -- CB/Whip Antenna --Jensen Stereo -- Fire extinguisher .

#194820 - 01/13/03 04:17 PM Re: BADLY Need diagnostic help!  
1987Raider  Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,085
Kentucky
Thanks Kevin C! I plugged the line going to the vacuum canister (both ways). It almost entirely FIXED THE PROBLEM. The only problem now is a small flat spot in the acceleration just off idle, and it's not very bad.

Now, how do I fix it -- I can't just run forever with it plugged, can I?

P.S. - I have to rebuild the carb anyway, bad AAP, will this also fix this problem?


1987 Raider 2.6L Auto -- rebuilt, by hand, by me -- Bouncy Seat/LSD/Aisin Hubs -- CB/Whip Antenna --Jensen Stereo -- Fire extinguisher .


Moderated by  Macka, Mudraider, off-roader, PajEvo, rxinhed 

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