Connections to the ECU for a 88-89 Starion.
The third picture con2.jpg has the spark box connector at the bottom center of the picture.
Dist type: It must be a turbo dist. The non turbo units have an igniter built in and are not compatible. the turbo has only a pickup coil and where the igniter goes is empty.
Power to the coil: You need to have 12 volts direct to the coils hot side. I got mine from the original carb motors ignition feed.
There will be two wires for the ignition from the original harness (these stayed even after you removed the original carb engine harness). One of these wires is 12 volts when in the run position. The other is 12 volts when the key is in the cranking position. Connect both of these to the positive terminal on the coil.
The factory turbo spark box will ground the negative terminal on the coil. When a spark is called for it will disconnect this ground and you will get a spark as the magnetic field in the coil collapses.
I am assuming you tested two coils and you don’t have a bad coil or coil wire.
Next on my list is power and ground for the spark box.
The box has a 10 pin connector. Look at the pin side of the connector with the retaining clip facing upwards. On the top row second wire from the left (1.25 mm black wire) is ground. Verify this with an ohmmeter between the pin and the body of the vehicle.
Verify the motor is grounded to the body as well.
The top right wire goes to ground as well (Black with a yellow stripe). This same wire connects to pin 58 on the ECU.
Power to the spark unit comes from the ECI control relay.
This wire is in the bottom row of the connector in the center position (red 1.25 mm). This wire must have power during cranking and when in the run position. This same wire goes to pin 51 on the ecu for ecu power.
Next on the list is the connection to the coil. There are a number of connections to the coil. One is a blue white wire (bottom row second from the left). This connects the negative terminal of the coil.
Also connector to the negative side of the coil is the tach wire that goes into the original wiring harness.
Make sure the fuel injection harness is grounded near the spark box. Look for a large lug with a large and a smaller black wire going to it. Make sure it has a good connection to the body. Connections!
Connections you need to make the system work:
You will notice a number of large black squares. Those are the ground points (1,2, 5, 8, 9,11).
You need power connected to four wires.
1: At the ignition switch to the wire labeled 2-BY (black wire with a yellow stripe). This wire needs to get voltage only in the cranking position.
2: The ON wire again at the ignition switch labeled 3-BW (black wire with a white stripe). This wire needs power in the cranking position and when running. I can post the connections to the ignition switch for a 87 Raider a bit later.
3: The next wire is the power to the fuel pump relay the wire is a 1.25 mm black wire to the battery (connector A34)
4: The last wire is the ECU’s constant power wire. It is also connected through connector A34 (3-W, white wire). This guy needs a small fuse and constant power from the battery. This keeps the memory working when you shut the car off the ECU remembers what tuning it learned when driving around.
That is all the EFI power the system needs to work.
You still need power to the + side of the ignition coil.
You can power the ignition coil from either the Starion harness or the Montero’s original harness. I like using the power wire from the Montero harness.
Remember you need to see +12v at the positive side of the coil during cranking and running.
The negative side should be held low and go high to produce a spark.