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Re: Frame question [Re: FrankR] #568781 02/16/05 07:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 792
J
javven Offline
Rock Warrior
Hmm. Have you owned this rig since new? It may have been wrecked and stretched on a frame jig. In such a case the rigidity of double-C and boxed frame now works against you. I bet this frame is pretty resistant to reshaping but... who knows?

Go around the vehicle - measure the driver/passenger door clearances. Front, rear, left, right. Now measure the A Pillar clearance. Check under the vehicle at the body mounts. Have they even been hammered / worked? It's probably obvious - I doubt anyone who did any work there would make an effort to hide it like you would on a fender.

Now, take a ball-peen hammer and go tapping on the frame. It should poing-piong-poing back at you everywhere you tap. If it makes a dull thud noise... that's probably rust and probably bad.

Simple test here, more complex below. If you have a plumb bob (hardware store will sell you one), drop and measure from the very front of the frame on either side. Draw a dot where the bob indicates. Ditto on the rear of the frame. Move the truck and measure diagnoally. Are the measurements equal? They might be off a little bit. If they're out an inch, double-check everything. If they're still out, owie.

Park on a level surface. Equalize pressure on the rear tires. Jack up and support the vehicle on stands from equal but opposite points but only in front. Make sure the stands are on the frame in recommended locations. If you ain't sure you better ask someone. Mess up here and you can die, or get horridly mangled. Your truck won't like you either...

Anyhow, now measure the distance from the rearmost point on the frame to the ground on either side. Now go to the trailing arm hanger or spring hanger (whichever you have) and measure from the frontmost weld on both sides. Now measure 3' forward of that on either side. See where I'm going with this? Your driver side vs passenger side measurements should be the same. Someone please correct me - Gen2 ain't my thing so one rail could be lower but I seriously doubt it. If they're not = bad juju.

I have some fairly extensive rust damage to my frame just forward of the pax side spring hangar. However, the truck's fine as-is, really. There's more meat LEFT there than there is on some new trucks factory new.

My guess? Sorry to say bro but sounds like a lemon truck that was wrecked, slapped back together in the 'cheap as possible' way and sold.


Change your oil hot and often.
07 Taco V6 4WD 5-Auto
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Re: Frame question [Re: FrankR] #568782 02/16/05 08:33 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 18
A
awineke Offline OP
Need a Spot
I've had the truck a couple years. It's always been like this and I've never gotten a good reason why. Tires matched, regularly rotated. The windshield is cracked in a few places. On the passenger side bottom, the gap between the sheet metal and the glass is wide enough that the rubber seal won't stay put.

Re: Frame question [Re: awineke] #568783 02/16/05 08:54 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline
Web Wheeler
****
It sounds like your truck was wrecked and not properly repaired before your purchase. I've never heard of a gap between the windshield seal and the frame of the windshield - unless part of the windshield is missing in that area - or the windshield frame rusted through.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: Frame question [Re: FrankR] #568784 02/17/05 03:33 AM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 342
Racer4 Offline
Mudrunner
Is there any chance one or more of the body rubbers are missing? Just a thought? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />


88 Montero with Gen 3 alloys, 31 inch Toyo's, A/T, Dual Bouncy Seats, Midland CB radio, Rebuilding 2.6L . See the details http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/710921
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