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#568812 - 02/15/05 05:45 PM Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
It appears the '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC w/ 93K miles that I've owned for 3 days needs the valve seals. So... I've spent a number of hours here reading away, and it looks I can do them w/out reomving the heads using either the compressed air or rope method.

I've done a number of searches, and if anything I'm getting too many hits to successfully narrow downa few things. If anybody has any insight to the following, I'd appreciate it:

- Good source for a preferred (Chilton? Haynes?) service manual?

- Is there a HowTo/writeup for this procedure on this specific engine?

- What valve spring compressor is small enough to do the job on vehicele? (I've seen several suggested, but no confirmations that they did the job)

- Are there updated seals that won't harden in 60K miles?

- Is the lower plenum a must while I've got it off? (bushing issue)

- Any other insights, or anybody who has done it willing to PM?


Thanks for any helo you may be able to offer.

-Steve


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC


#568813 - 02/15/05 07:32 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
Winston  Offline
Rock Warrior
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 509
SF Bay Area
I cant help you with details of how to replace the seals, but I was wondering why you are changing them. I assume it is because you are burning a lot of oil. How much oil does your car use? My seals leak (about 1 qt per 2k mi), but oil is cheap. Are you sure the timing belt was replaced recently? The belts in your car tend to break more frequently than in the SOHC cars (my '95).


'90 Montero XLS (Sold, sadly)
'95 Montero LS 160k
'03 Montero Limited 30k

#568814 - 02/15/05 08:24 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: Winston]  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
I just got the vehicle this past weekend, and only afterward did I notice that after a few minutes idling, if starting the vehicle while warm, and then reving the engine, I get a SIGNIFICANT amount of bluish smoke, indicative of burning oil. I'm down halfway between the marks on the dipstick after 1000 miles, and no dripping, so it's being burned.

Several hours of thread reading here seems to indicate that these are classic symptoms of valve seals gone bad, and right in my milage range (over 80K). Apparently a plugged PCV valve can exacerbate the condition, but that's no easy fix either.

So, in order to have any hope of passing emissions (and not being embarassed at stop lights), I'm going to attempt to change them out.

I may well tackle the timing belt while I'm at it... I don't have clear indication that it's previously been done.


Thanks for the reply.
-Steve


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

#568815 - 02/15/05 08:53 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
Winston  Offline
Rock Warrior
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 509
SF Bay Area
In California it is the sellers responsibility to get the smog cert. If it won't pass smog you don't have to pay. Where are you?


'90 Montero XLS (Sold, sadly)
'95 Montero LS 160k
'03 Montero Limited 30k

#568816 - 02/16/05 05:43 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
Anonymous
Unregistered

That's the first thing I did to mine as well. The timing belt is fairly easy to remove once you get down to the heads. There is a whoole write-up on it somewhere, keep searching. As far as manuals, splurge and find the factory service manual set. Chiltons/Haynes books suck on this vehicle and have misprints on the splark plug coil/wire order, etc. Major PITA when I was working on mine.

There is a special valve spring compressor to fit this head. The outer sides of the head are too high for anything you can get at a local parts store. Here's a link to the tool I bought. It's twenty bucks less than when I bought it two years ago.

I would definitely do the plenum as well. You're gonna have it off already, and it's a lot easier to do it once and not have to worry about it later. I didn't realize mine was bad until shortly after doing the valve seals <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />. I had a mysterious vacuum leak I couldn't find until I smoke tested it.

Good luck. If you have questions I'll be happy to help with what I can.

Torry


#568817 - 02/16/05 02:18 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
Torry-

Thanks for the comments. Looks like it will be a valve seal/plenum/timing belt weekend. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Would you be willing to estimate how long the whole job took you?

I'll grab that specific spring compressor. I also got a link to a manual in .pdf format, and I think it is the factory manual.

If anybody has any suggestions regarding finding the writeup on the procedure for this specific engine, I'd appreciate it. I've found one for a SOHC engine, but not for the 3.5 DOHC.

Again thanks.

-Steve


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

#568818 - 02/17/05 03:56 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
BMT213A  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 26
NJ
I'm about to attempt this repair on my '95 3.0 24V. I posted a while ago about whether the 24V motors in general have the seal issue (most refs are 12V SOHC based) but there doesn't seem to be much concensus.

I'll add in my $0.02 that I've picked up ahead of the repair:-

1) Genuine Mits vale seals seem like a good idea - the inlet and exhaust are slightly different (different part#) it seems.
2) Parts manager at the dealer advised a large socket and hammer to compress the springs. Quicker and the socket catches the retainers. Still need the spring compressor to for assembly though.
3)Several references talk about using a compression tester adaptor to pressurize the cylinders. All the compression testers I've bought have a check valve to hold the gauge reading. They don't flow air backwards!
4)You're going to have more fun with the DOHC - cams have to come out I think.
5) PCV problems may well be more to blame for the smoke than the seals. The baffles in the rocker covers can become clogged.
6)If you haven't done so already, check compression to rule out any major issues.

Hopefully after next weekend, I'll be a hardened world expert on 24V seals and have a non-smoking Monty. if so, I'll post!


Paul


#568819 - 02/19/05 01:33 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: BMT213A]  
Anonymous
Unregistered

Quote

1) Genuine Mits vale seals seem like a good idea - the inlet and exhaust are slightly different (different part#) it seems.


Most definitely the case. The "new" seals are teflon coated to extend the life, however the only seal they use now is the original exhaust seal. It works on both intake and exhaust.

Quote

3)Several references talk about using a compression tester adaptor to pressurize the cylinders. All the compression testers I've bought have a check valve to hold the gauge reading. They don't flow air backwards!


If you bump the engine with the starter just like doing a compression test, this method will work.

Quote

4)You're going to have more fun with the DOHC - cams have to come out I think.


YES <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

Quote

5) PCV problems may well be more to blame for the smoke than the seals. The baffles in the rocker covers can become clogged.


Possible, but the PCV system would cause smoke slightly all the time, more heavily on acceleration. Based on the symptoms, this is a classic valve seal issue. Very common before they switched to using the same seals for intake and exhaust stems.

Good Luck on this. As far as time is concerned, mine took longer because I removed the heads. Took me about ten hours, not including time spent cleaning baffles in the valve covers. Nylon pipe brushes and lots of diesel came in handy for that. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Where's the PDF for the manual? I'd like to see it. Make sure that you follow the instructions for the timing belt to the "T". It'll save you alot of headache down the road. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


#568820 - 02/21/05 07:37 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: BMT213A]  
Winston  Offline
Rock Warrior
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 509
SF Bay Area
I would love to hear how the seal repair went on the '95 3.0 (24 valve). How many hours, what tools were required, etc.


'90 Montero XLS (Sold, sadly)
'95 Montero LS 160k
'03 Montero Limited 30k

#568821 - 02/21/05 10:54 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
After several more hours of forum searching, Service Manual reading, and WinCaps surfing, I'm trying to narrow down a parts list for changing the valve seals on my Montero (as listed in subject).

Here's my parts list thus far, and a few more questions if I may:

DESCRIPTION PART # QTY COST
Timing Belt tensioner pully - L MD140071 1 24.59
Timing Belt tensioner pully - R MD319022 1 22.71
Lower Intake Plenum MD335940 1 299.56
Timing Belt MD193875 1 94.9
Intake Manifold Plenum Gasket MD300483 1 4.33
Induction Control Valve Gasket, Secondary MD307582 1 3.59
Induction Control Valve Gasket, Primary MD307583 1 5.38
Sparkplugs MS851335 6 10.4
Spark plug Wire set MD311208 1 54.54
exhaust seals MD307343 12 3.21
intake seals MD306079 12 3.17
PCV valve MD183547 1 12.69
Cam Seals MD152603 4 6.58
Throttle Body Gasket MD184662 1 2.17
EGR Pipe Gasket MD149764 2 4.19
Water Pump MD972440 1 101.7
Timing Belt Hydraulic Tensioner MD319040 1 89.58
Spark Plug Seals MD186787 6 3.88
Rocker Cover Gasket MD186786 2 20.18

Valve Spring Compressor (Schley Products) 91400 1


- One reply by SRMan suggest that there is a writeup for this procedure on the 3.5L DOHC, but I've been unable to find it. Does anybody know definitivley where it may be?

- I grabbed the part #'s for the tensioner pulleys from WinCaps, but is there an entire 'tensioner assembly' that needs to be replaced instead?

- WinCaps lists MD30343 as the part number for the valve seals, and has quantity 12. It also has another indicator the 'same' part on the illustration, and specifies quantity 24, but no part #. I've seen one comment that Mits has gone to a newer teflon-seal for both intake and exhaust, is this why thy quantity change w/ no part # update?

- For my DOHC engine, the cams have to come off. I assume this means new cam seals on the sprocket ends, correct?

- Anybody know where the part # on the updated lower plenum is stamped? I'm trying to see if I already have the new one.


Thanks again for all the help this far. When I tackle it, I'll try to document the procedure for others.

(ON EDIT: I've updated a couple of part #'s, and added the rocker cover gaskets, which I had forgotten earlier. I've also added the individual item costs from mitsubishiparts.com, as of 4/2005. The total cost for all these parts with the quantities indicated was just about $1000, which was %50 less than dealer costs)

Last edited by scaesare; 05/11/05 07:27 PM.

-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

#568822 - 02/22/05 09:25 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
Anonymous
Unregistered

Quote
Exhaust valve guide seals MD307343(?) 24 (?)


This is correct. I had to double check with the dealer (I actually called 2 different dealers to ensure one was feeding me a line of BS) because I don't trust parts guys, having been in the parts business for awhile.

As far as the write-up is concerned, about two years ago there was another guy doing his 3.5 DOHC about two weeks after I did mine. He said he was planning on doing a write-up at that, with pics and all. Whether or not he actually did I don't know. I lost track of this board for awhile and just recently rediscovered it.

The tensioner assembly is a major PITA. make sure you follow the procedure in the book on that one. It calls for inserting a pin through the pushrod and tensioner housing. A closely fitting cotter pin works great for this. Just make sure you have it positioned with the "loop" end towards you.

Also, have fun on the bracket bolts for the AC <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />. Just when you think they are all out (because you just removed the impossible one), there is one more even more difficult to get to. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

I'll pm you with my home phone # so you can ring me if you need ideas for reaching those crappy locations. Oh, and some of the bolts you'll be removing are easier to access through the wheel wells. Put the truck on jackstands and remove the front wheels.

Do you know when the water pump was replaced, if it was replaced? If it hasn't been done, I would recommend doing it now as well. Tearing that engine down that far again is something you won't want to do any time soon, I promise! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />


#568823 - 02/23/05 02:24 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: Winston]  
BMT213A  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 26
NJ
Still a work-in-progress on the 24V SOHC front. No claims as yet, that Monty has quit smoking...

Progress/observations so far:-
1) (This is the one that caused the delay of play) A dry run of pumping ~100psi into the cylinders showed a leak down rate of 7.5 to 8.5 psi/min seemingly past the rings into the crankcase (blowing back up the oil galleys in fact) ! This is from a compressor rated at 4cfm at 90psi. All the posts I'd read said the air requirement would be minimal, and at first this seemed excessive and contradictory to the decent compression readings (190psi min). I really wondered if the oil consumption was unrelated to the valve seals. Some subsequent thinking though convinced me this might not be unreasonable for a stone cold, idle motor. I plan to either spin the motor or shoot some oil into the bores and repeat the test.

2) My spring compressor is too big to get anywhere close to the inlet valves. The solid coolant tube running front to back interferes with access. Schley unit now on order...

Stay tuned for next weekend's episode...

Paul


#568824 - 03/01/05 07:31 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
ryany  Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,508
Phoenix, AZ
I'm in the middle of my valve job, waiting on the machine shop and parts ordered from Mitsubishi. I'm curious to know how yours is coming. I determined that there was no way I could get the valve springs off with the heads still on the block with any of the 3 valve spring compressors I have, so the heads came off. Even with the head laying on my workbench, I still had to create an extension out of an old spark plug socket so my valve spring compressor could compress the springs. Before I took the heads to the machine shop for a valve job, I broke out the trusty Dremel moto-tool and cleaned up all the rough finishes on the ports, and matched the ports on the intake & exhaust manifolds to the ports on the heads. By the way, the dealer had separate part numbers for the intake & exhaust valve seals. (intake:MD306079, exhaust:MD307343) I also decided to do all the valve cover gaskets while I was in there, along with the belts, water pump, thermostat, and all cooling system hoses, even though there was no sign of a problem with any of them. (it would be silly not to do the water pump while you're there) Let me know if you need part #'s for any of these.


95 Montero SR 3.5
OME shocks & springs, cranked torsion bars, 2" body lift, 3" gas tank lift, 4.90 gears, Aussie front locker, factory rear locker, Aisin manual hubs, Roger Brown Rock Sliderz, 315/75r16 (35") BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 16x8 Eagle Alloys, custom 2 1/4" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler

#568825 - 03/01/05 03:41 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: ryany]  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
Ryany-

Thanks for the post... sorry to hear that you ended up having to pull your heads.

Out of cuiosity, were any of the valve-spring compressors you tried the one mentioned above (Schley Products #91400)?

It seems there is contradictory info regarging whether the seals for intake & exhaust are all the same part # these days.

Thanks for the reminder about the water pump, that will go as well. If you do have the part # handy, that would be great. I've listed the other part #'s I believe to be correct in a post above... if anything you have differs, I'd be interested as well.

Thanks again.


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

#568826 - 03/03/05 03:36 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: ryany]  
BMT213A  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 26
NJ
Still a Work in progress on the 95 3.0, but I'm happy to share a few updates:-

1) Schley spring compressor does fit, although I had to shorten the pivot bar by about ~3 inches to enable easy location/set up within the bay.

2) Big drawback to the Schley unit is that it doesn't "latch". i.e. you have to keep pressure on the lever to keep the spring compressed. Sounds trivial, until you are bent over, applying force with your left hand and trying to relocate keepers with tweezers/mag pick up/fingers in your right. After the 6th valve, I rigged a few blocks of wood to wedge the lever and hold the spring compressed. Much easier...

3) The leakdown rate on at least one of my cylinders was too high (and thus hold pressure too low) to break the spring loose from the inlet valves (exhaust were OK though). I kept pushing the valve open and venting air through the inlet. The problem is that after a few attempts, I seem to get enough debris in/on the valve seat to ensure the max pressure achievable is relatively low (60psi). Still haven't quite cracked this one yet, but I'm hoping a week of (4) will help.

4) A liberal helping of WD40 (or pentrating oil of choice) around the keepers helps to break the spring loose of the keepers/valve retainer , especially the inlets (surprised me these would actually stick - errant combustion deposits I assume)

5) Beware of leaving the sealing ridge of the old valve guide in place. They seem to rip off when the old guide is pulled off.

6)If pushed, I'd say the old inlet seals were in visually worse shape than the exhaust. Sort of agrees with the sticky retainers. I'm more (but not yet 100% convinced) this is the root cause of my Monty's smoking habit.

7)FYI, I'm replacing with different inlet/exhaust part numbers based on the local stealer parts guru. MD184303 for exhaust, MD307342 for inlet. BTW, the Mits bag ID calls these "exhaust guides" even though they are inlets. Physically, they look the same except for the seal color.

8) Whatever you do, BLOCK the oil feeds. I "launched" one set of keepers by prematurely releasing the spring. One would have ended up in the sump had I not blocked the oil feed.


Paul


#568827 - 03/03/05 05:48 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
ryany  Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,508
Phoenix, AZ
I didn't see that post until the day after I pulled the heads, so I didn't have the opportunity to try the Schley Products tool.
The water pump part # is MD972440, and comes with the necessary gasket & o-ring. I wonder if the valve seal confusion could be due to different part #'s for the different engines (i.e. 3.0-24 valve, 3.0-12 valve, 3.5)? I was looking at the parts guy's screen when we were ordering parts and can vouch for the accuracy of the 2 separate part #'s, providing the info in his catalog was current & accurate (the parts department at the Nissan dealership that I used to work at got catalog updates every month from Nissan).
I should be getting my heads back from the machine shop tomorrow and may be able to get my Montero back together this weekend. Keep updating this thread with any useful experiences or info.


95 Montero SR 3.5
OME shocks & springs, cranked torsion bars, 2" body lift, 3" gas tank lift, 4.90 gears, Aussie front locker, factory rear locker, Aisin manual hubs, Roger Brown Rock Sliderz, 315/75r16 (35") BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 16x8 Eagle Alloys, custom 2 1/4" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler

#568828 - 04/12/05 04:56 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: ryany]  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
OK, I've gotten back to needing to do this,and I'm getting ready to order parts. I'll be confirming part #'s for the seals, as there seems to be some contradictory info here...

Thanks ryany for that water pump part #.

A couple of more Q's-

1) I'll be checking mitsubishiparts.net. Any other good sources for parts?

2) I see that the online tool arehouse referneced above has another valve sprin compresoor that's designed for use with the heads on the block, but substianlly cheaper. Has anybody used this type? URL Here:

Compressor

3) How do did y'all fab up the adapter to keep the cylinders charged with compressed air? Did you ise one of these?

4) Finally, would anybody recommend using one of these:

Retainer Tool

Thanks guys.

Last edited by scaesare; 04/12/05 05:05 PM.

-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

#568829 - 04/13/05 08:10 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
Anonymous
Unregistered

Quote
4) Finally, would anybody recommend using one of these:

Retainer Tool


This will not be possible. The valve spring compressor slides over the valve stem, the same place this tool is used. This would work great for most Chevy/Ford V8's utilizing a c-clamp style valve spring compressor, but our engine is a real piece of engineering work. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />


#568830 - 04/13/05 02:25 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
SRMan-

Thanks, I was rather wondering that myself.

In addition, here is an updated parts list for doing this job. A couple of updated part #'s, including one for the plenum gasket specified in "Tech Section" of the site here (any ideas on how we can update that?)



[EDITED TO REMOVE THIS LIST. INSTEAD I HAVE UPDATED THE ORIGINAL LIST ABOVE]

These parts were confirmed by the folks at mitsubisihiparts.com, as well as a local dealer parts dept.

Also, here's a link to an air fitting that should do the job for keeping the valves up:


Air Hold Fitting

Thanks again for everybody's input.

Last edited by scaesare; 05/12/05 01:53 PM.

-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

#568831 - 04/14/05 12:16 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
ryany  Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,508
Phoenix, AZ
I found that I was able to use the hose from my compression tester, which has a quick disconnect on the gauge end. Just thread the hose into the plug hole like you're going to check the compression, and connect the other end to an air hose quick disconnect fitting, no adapter needed. My gauge is made by Actron, but I've seen other brands with this same design.


95 Montero SR 3.5
OME shocks & springs, cranked torsion bars, 2" body lift, 3" gas tank lift, 4.90 gears, Aussie front locker, factory rear locker, Aisin manual hubs, Roger Brown Rock Sliderz, 315/75r16 (35") BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 16x8 Eagle Alloys, custom 2 1/4" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler

#568832 - 04/18/05 03:56 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: ryany]  
BMT213A  Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 26
NJ
Update on my '95 3.0 SOHC:-

Oil consumption has dropped drastically since getting the monty back on the road. Prior to the seals I was using 1qt/tank. Post seal replacement, I've yet to add any after 2 tanks. More importantly, the Monty is thru state inspection and has kicked its smoking habit.

I was skeptical before completing this that the seals could account for such a large oil consumption. Hindsight though, says they were in need of replacement.

Regarding the compressor adaptor, I found mine on the shelf at my local Pep Boys. Looks like a compression tester adaptor, but doesn't have the check valve.


Paul


#568833 - 05/11/05 09:32 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
Well, I’ve finally completed this surgery. I had allotted an entire weekend for it. The final day count was 7 days, representing about 50 hours of actual work, however fully half of that represents the time taken to deal with my Broken Crank Pulley Bolt which story I’ll eventually update

Here are a few musings and notes, whish will hopefully assist others when attempting this painful process. Additionally, I've updated my parts list above with some superseded part #'s, as well as prices.

GENERAL

1) SRMan (aka Torry Shepherd) gets the beverage of his choice, for his offer of assistance, and validation of my spark plug wiring issue.

2) A long “locking” 3/8”-drive ratchet extension, and “swivel-sockets” make this job much easier. I picked up a metric set at Sears for ~$60, and well worth it. The most common sizes on this engine are 10 & 12 mm, with a few 14’s thrown in. An air ratchet makes it even betterer.

3) Thou shalt have a torque wrench. A 3/8” drive with a rating up to 40 ft/lbs is great for just about everything except the crank damper pulley bolt. That needs a 1/2” drive unit that is good for at least 140 ft/lbs to tighten it.

4) Thou shalt also have a magnetic pickup.


DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY

1) The Changing the Lower Intake Plenum on a 1995 Montero SR with 3.5L DOHC article is invaluable in taking the top end of this engine apart. I printed out all the pictures on my color printer to have in the garage with me. I will happily also buy author Richard Myatt, and editor Phil Hansford the beverage of their choice, should I ever have opportunity to meet them.

2) Stuff rags in to all openings. Especially the intakes once you have the intake plenums off. Also the oil return passages in the heads and the spark plug holes. [Linked Image]

3) PB Blaster works well for stuck-on vacuum/cooling hoses as well as bolts.

4) The belt tensioners for the accessory drive belts were seized for me. PB Blaster alone wasn’t enuff to free them. I had to apply force on the adjusting bolts while at the same time tapping on the tensioners with a rubber mallet and/or piece of 2x4.

5) The easiest way to remove the bolts for the A/C compressor and bracket is to go thru the drivers-side wheel well. I left the tire on, and went thru the rubber flap with two 12’ extensions and a swivel socket. This is much easier with a second person underneath to support the A/C compressor, as well as to guide the socket. Removing the battery tray, while a pain, is worth it to get at the compressor.

6) The intake plenum bolts are different lengths, so either tag them as they come out, or notice the documentation in the plenum write-up noted above.

7) The “main” accessory bracket bolts also have differing lengths, so either tag them, or observe the documentation on them on Service Manual page 11B-30.

8) Be careful with the crank pulley bolt. It’s necessary to remove it, and I had to resort to the “starter trick” to try and remove it, which broke the bolt. I’ll detail the rest of that saga in Crank Pully Bolt Broken


CAM TIMING

1) Leave the plugs out until you have the cams retimed, as it makes rotating the entire crank much easier.

2) It would appear there is an error in the manual regarding the timing belt/cam timing procedure. On service manual pages 11B-33,34 steps 1-7 : When replacing the timing belt, you are told to align all four cams with their marks, and then hold them in place with clips on the timing belt. Then you are told to rotate the crank 1 full rev counter-clockwise (step #8), before placing the timing belt on the crank (step #9). This has the effect of making the pistons collide with the valves on the passenger-side head, which has the cam timing marks set where some of the valves are open. I believe that step #8 should be after the belt is set on the crank pulley.

3) The “slack” in the timing belt made up for 2 teeth on the belt. Therefore in order for all timing marks to line up (as checked in Service Manual page 11B-35 Step#5) once the belt was tensioned, I needed to set the belt on the crank with the crank set two teeth before TDC. In other words the crank sprocket timing indicator was 2 teeth before the engine casting timing mark. Once the timing belt slack was taken up by the tensioner assembly, this put my timing dead on. (I ended up timing the engine 4 times to finally discover this. Well, actually 3. The fourth time was because I forgot to install the lower timing cover first <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> )

4) The crank timing belt sprocket has two tiny index pins on the back of it that mesh with the “sensor wheel”. If these are assembled properly, there will be a small “notch” on the sensor wheel that will align with the sprocket timing mark, and the wheel will NOT turn independently of the sprocket.

5) The Service Manual specifies a special tool to set initial tension in the belt tensioner pulley. I simply used a pair of needle nose pliers, and “guessed”. Later on in the procedure for checking the protrusion on the hydraulic adjuster, I was OK, so apparently I guessed correctly enough.

6) Be sure to rotate the entire engine by hand at least 720 degrees before buttoning the timing cover back up.

7) Remember that the lower timing cover goes on before the damper pulley! (This bit me).

8) Keep your old timing belt, and you can wrap it around the damper pulley, and secure it to allow you to torque down the crank damper pulley bolt. (I looped it down and stuck an extension thru it that I wedged between the axle and anti-sway bar)

9) Don’t forget to thread the cam sensor wire back thru the timing belt before the cover goes on.

10) Watch the torque on the cam bolts. I broke one, and they are special-order items from the dealer.


IGNITION

1) I broke a coil attempting to rotate it to break it’s seal on the spark plug on the driver’s side. They are expensive little buggers. Removing the other two by pulling straight up seemed to work OK.

2) The Electrical Service Manual on page 16-62 has the TEXT in error on the Top-View diagram of the spark-plug/coil wire diagram. The actual wire digram is correct, but it’s hard to actually trace them on the picture. For the record, the correct routing (as documented in the Plenum article referenced above) is:
Cylinder 1 Spark Plug - Cylinder 4 Ignition Coil
Cylinder 3 Spark Plug - Cylinder 6 Ignition Coil
Cylinder 5 Spark Plug - Cylinder 2 Ignition Coil

3) Spark-plug cable routing on this engine is a real pain. Be careful removing the wires, and you can re-use the plastic “tray” in the back of the engine which keeps the insulation from resting directly on any metal.


SEAL REPLACEMENT

1) To keep the valves up with the springs removed, I used this tool: KDT-2992 . It worked well with the deep holes the spark plugs are in.

2) The Schley valve spring compressor mentioned above worked well also. If you find yourself a couple of thick washers (to clear the index collars), you can mount the brackets to the center two bolt holes where the front and back main cam bearing journals go. You can see them in this pic: [Linked Image]

3) To compress the valves, it’s easier to do all the intakes on a head first, and then reconfigure the compressor to then do all the exhausts. In the tight spots next to the firewall and the brake booster on the driver’s side you may have to re-orient the compressor from “push” to "pull". Ditto for clearing the rail above the passenger-side head, which you can also see in that pic above.

4) Stuff rags in to all the oil returns and spark plug holes! [Linked Image]

5) A pair of needle-nose pliers and some firm twisting pulls the old seals off. Inspect the guides to make sure they are free of debris before setting the new seals.

6) A 12MM deep socket does well for setting the seals. Press firmly and you’ll (usually) feel a little ‘pop’ as it sets.

7) Setting the valve retaining clips can sometimes be best accomplished in the tight spaces by setting them in place with a magnetic pickup, and then pressing them home with a screwdriver.

8) If in some cases the valve retainers “stick”, and the valve opens rather than just compressing the spring, try re-configuring the compressor to make sure the arm is oriented straight at the retainer. The exhaust valves are set at more of an angle then the intake valves, so it can be deceiving.

9) The engine will rotate when you pressurize the cylinders to do the valves. Be sure everything is clear. This has the side effect of blowing any rags out the other spark plug holes if you do this too quickly (which can be a surprise). It could also potentially suck them in, I suppose.

10) Remember to move your air pressure hose to the correct cylinder as you move on!!!


That’s about all I can think of right now. As I remember more I’ll edit this post. If anybody has any specific questions or suggestions to add, I'll be happy to try and answer/add them. As I hope to never have to use the valve compressor and air hold fittings again, I’m happy to let others borrow them.. it’ll save you a hundred bucks or so.

-Steve


#568834 - 05/12/05 04:05 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
Anonymous
Unregistered

Excellent write-up on this procedure. That lower timing cover bit me too! Congrats on the success of your procedure. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


#568835 - 05/12/05 05:52 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC  
justice  Offline
Roll Me Over
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,269
So Cal, USA *****
Wow good job..looks like I'll have to take a weeks vacation time to tackle this one..So hows it run..I cant even remember what its like not to smoke on the trail..good job


99 Gen 2.5, fixing blown head gasket
89 SWB- 33's, ARB Front locker, SR rear locker/axle, SR F brakes, winch, WST Offroad Armor all Around, 2.85 Aussie T-case Gears (SOLD)
Sold: (2) 95 SR's, 86 SWB, 90LWB, 91 LWB
-Can Change a timing belt in my sleep..

#568836 - 05/12/05 02:05 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: justice]  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
Oh.. right... how does it run?

Great! Not a lick of smoke any more. I've also now gone thru 2 fuel-ups and have not had to add oil. I was going at a rate of about 3/4ths of a quart every tank prior.

Speaking of off-roading... I actually was trying to get this job complete before my camping/off-road trip scheduled for this past weekend. Due to the issues I ran in to, I actually ended delaying me departure time from Friday morning to Friday evening, after literally getting the entire thing back together at 2pm. (At one point there were 5 people(including me) in my garage wrenching on the thing.)

After a final visual check, and looking at the "old parts" pile to make sure nothing was missed I cranked it a couple of times without letting it fire. Then I actually started it. I gut the "cut-it!" wave from my buddy. There was a rather disturbing mechanical clacking. I literally felt nausous.

After some discussion we pulled the injector fuse, and just cranked it for a bit. No mechanical noise. We thought about the fact that the water pump had been changed, and hence running dry. With that small hope, we started it again, and after a few seconds it quieted right down. It simply just ran after that.

It did great on the highway and trails for my trip. It's a pretty darn capable off-roader!

-Steve


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

#568837 - 05/16/05 02:43 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
Anonymous
Unregistered

here is the link for the manual

http://pajero.dn.ru/pdf/pajero-manual-pdf-big/

good luck

Mike


#568838 - 05/16/05 01:39 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
I have the manual (hence my page references to it in the above post, as well as corrections to it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> )

Incidentally, your link is password protected.


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

#568839 - 05/17/05 04:30 AM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: scaesare]  
MontyMcV  Offline
Trail Leader
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,340
Cleve-burg OH USA
Look at the popup box carefully. It tells you the login and password.

Nice write up. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> My 95 3.0L needs the seals done. Thanksfully the 98 only has 60k on it. (Timing belt coming soon though.)


Big Truck: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 5-Spd drive line in hand!
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 65k
Daughter's: 06 Eclipse, Keeping it Mitsu!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com

#568840 - 05/17/05 02:47 PM Re: Valve seal procedure - '95 Montero 3.5 DOHC [Re: MontyMcV]  
scaesare  Offline
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
Well looky there, so it does.

Duh. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the offer, and good luck on your 3.0... I dunno how different the rigs are, but I'll be happy to do what I can, including loaning the spring-compressor and air-fitting.


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC

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