Well, I’ve finally completed this surgery. I had allotted an entire weekend for it. The final day count was 7 days, representing about 50 hours of actual work, however fully half of that represents the time taken to deal with my Broken Crank Pulley Bolt
which story I’ll eventually update
Here are a few musings and notes, whish will hopefully assist others when attempting this painful process. Additionally, I've updated my parts list above with some superseded part #'s, as well as prices.GENERAL
1) SRMan (aka Torry Shepherd) gets the beverage of his choice, for his offer of assistance, and validation of my spark plug wiring issue.
2) A long “locking” 3/8”-drive ratchet extension, and “swivel-sockets” make this job much easier. I picked up a metric set at Sears for ~$60, and well worth it. The most common sizes on this engine are 10 & 12 mm, with a few 14’s thrown in. An air ratchet makes it even betterer.
3) Thou shalt have a torque wrench. A 3/8” drive with a rating up to 40 ft/lbs is great for just about everything except the crank damper pulley bolt. That needs a 1/2” drive unit that is good for at least 140 ft/lbs to tighten it.
4) Thou shalt also have a magnetic pickup.DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
1) The Changing the Lower Intake Plenum on a 1995 Montero SR with 3.5L DOHC
article is invaluable
in taking the top end of this engine apart. I printed out all the pictures on my color printer to have in the garage with me. I will happily also buy author Richard Myatt, and editor Phil Hansford the beverage of their choice, should I ever have opportunity to meet them.
2) Stuff rags in to all openings. Especially the intakes once you have the intake plenums off. Also the oil return passages in the heads and the spark plug holes.
3) PB Blaster works well for stuck-on vacuum/cooling hoses as well as bolts.
4) The belt tensioners for the accessory drive belts were seized for me. PB Blaster alone wasn’t enuff to free them. I had to apply force on the adjusting bolts while at the same time tapping on the tensioners with a rubber mallet and/or piece of 2x4.
5) The easiest way to remove the bolts for the A/C compressor and bracket is to go thru the drivers-side wheel well. I left the tire on, and went thru the rubber flap with two 12’ extensions and a swivel socket. This is much easier with a second person underneath to support the A/C compressor, as well as to guide the socket. Removing the battery tray, while a pain, is worth it to get at the compressor.
6) The intake plenum bolts are different lengths, so either tag them as they come out, or notice the documentation in the plenum write-up noted above.
7) The “main” accessory bracket bolts also have differing lengths, so either tag them, or observe the documentation on them on Service Manual page 11B-30.
8) Be careful with the crank pulley bolt. It’s necessary to remove it, and I had to resort to the “starter trick” to try and remove it, which broke the bolt. I’ll detail the rest of that saga in Crank Pully Bolt Broken CAM TIMING
1) Leave the plugs out until you have the cams retimed, as it makes rotating the entire crank much easier.
2) It would appear there is an error in the manual regarding the timing belt/cam timing procedure. On service manual pages 11B-33,34 steps 1-7 : When replacing the timing belt, you are told to align all four cams with their marks, and then hold them in place with clips on the timing belt. Then you are told to rotate the crank 1 full rev counter-clockwise (step #8), before
placing the timing belt on the crank (step #9). This has the effect of making the pistons collide with the valves on the passenger-side head, which has the cam timing marks set where some of the valves are open. I believe that step #8 should be after
the belt is set on the crank pulley.
3) The “slack” in the timing belt made up for 2 teeth on the belt. Therefore in order for all timing marks to line up (as checked in Service Manual page 11B-35 Step#5) once the belt was tensioned, I needed to set the belt on the crank with the crank set two teeth before TDC
. In other words the crank sprocket timing indicator was 2 teeth before the engine casting timing mark. Once the timing belt slack was taken up by the tensioner assembly, this put my timing dead on. (I ended up timing the engine 4 times to finally discover this. Well, actually 3. The fourth time was because I forgot to install the lower timing cover first <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> )
4) The crank timing belt sprocket has two tiny index pins on the back of it that mesh with the “sensor wheel”. If these are assembled properly, there will be a small “notch” on the sensor wheel that will align with the sprocket timing mark, and the wheel will NOT turn independently of the sprocket.
5) The Service Manual specifies a special tool to set initial tension in the belt tensioner pulley. I simply used a pair of needle nose pliers, and “guessed”. Later on in the procedure for checking the protrusion on the hydraulic adjuster, I was OK, so apparently I guessed correctly enough.
6) Be sure to rotate the entire engine by hand at least 720 degrees before buttoning the timing cover back up.
7) Remember that the lower timing cover goes on before
the damper pulley! (This bit me).
8) Keep your old timing belt, and you can wrap it around the damper pulley, and secure it to allow you to torque down the crank damper pulley bolt. (I looped it down and stuck an extension thru it that I wedged between the axle and anti-sway bar)
9) Don’t forget to thread the cam sensor wire back thru the timing belt before the cover goes on.
10) Watch the torque on the cam bolts. I broke one, and they are special-order items from the dealer.IGNITION
1) I broke a coil attempting to rotate it to break it’s seal on the spark plug on the driver’s side. They are expensive little buggers. Removing the other two by pulling straight up seemed to work OK.
2) The Electrical Service Manual on page 16-62 has the TEXT
in error on the Top-View diagram of the spark-plug/coil wire diagram. The actual wire digram is correct, but it’s hard to actually trace them on the picture. For the record, the correct routing (as documented in the Plenum article referenced above) is:
Cylinder 1 Spark Plug - Cylinder 4 Ignition Coil
Cylinder 3 Spark Plug - Cylinder 6 Ignition Coil
Cylinder 5 Spark Plug - Cylinder 2 Ignition Coil
3) Spark-plug cable routing on this engine is a real pain. Be careful removing the wires, and you can re-use the plastic “tray” in the back of the engine which keeps the insulation from resting directly on any metal.SEAL REPLACEMENT
1) To keep the valves up with the springs removed, I used this tool: KDT-2992
. It worked well with the deep holes the spark plugs are in.
2) The Schley valve spring compressor mentioned above worked well also. If you find yourself a couple of thick washers (to clear the index collars), you can mount the brackets to the center two bolt holes where the front and back main cam bearing journals go. You can see them in this pic:
3) To compress the valves, it’s easier to do all the intakes on a head first, and then reconfigure the compressor to then do all the exhausts. In the tight spots next to the firewall and the brake booster on the driver’s side you may have to re-orient the compressor from “push” to "pull". Ditto for clearing the rail above the passenger-side head, which you can also see in that pic above.
4) Stuff rags in to all the oil returns and spark plug holes!
5) A pair of needle-nose pliers and some firm twisting pulls the old seals off. Inspect the guides to make sure they are free of debris before setting the new seals.
6) A 12MM deep socket does well for setting the seals. Press firmly and you’ll (usually) feel a little ‘pop’ as it sets.
7) Setting the valve retaining clips can sometimes be best accomplished in the tight spaces by setting them in place with a magnetic pickup, and then pressing them home with a screwdriver.
8) If in some cases the valve retainers “stick”, and the valve opens rather than just compressing the spring, try re-configuring the compressor to make sure the arm is oriented straight at the retainer. The exhaust valves are set at more of an angle then the intake valves, so it can be deceiving.
9) The engine will rotate when you pressurize the cylinders to do the valves. Be sure everything is clear. This has the side effect of blowing any rags out the other spark plug holes if you do this too quickly (which can be a surprise). It could also potentially suck them in, I suppose.
10) Remember to move your air pressure hose to the correct cylinder as you move on!!!
That’s about all I can think of right now. As I remember more I’ll edit this post. If anybody has any specific questions or suggestions to add, I'll be happy to try and answer/add them. As I hope to never have to use the valve compressor and air hold fittings again, I’m happy to let others borrow them.. it’ll save you a hundred bucks or so.