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Crank Pulley Bolt Broken #598982
05/02/05 01:42 PM
05/02/05 01:42 PM
S
scaesare  Offline OP
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
I have managed to break the bolt holding the damper pulley on to the front of the crank on my 3.5 DOHC. After many attempts to remove the bolt with a breaker bar, I resorted to "the starter trick".

After crank attempt #5 I thought I had broken loose the bolt, only to find out I had BROKEN the bolt.

So... any tips on removing the rest of it? It's been soaking in PB Blaster for the last 36 hours. Current plans are to drill it down the center and attempt to use an "Easy-Out".

Any other suggestions welcome.


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt Broken [Re: scaesare] #598983
05/13/05 02:28 PM
05/13/05 02:28 PM
S
scaesare  Offline OP
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
For the archives...

I should have listened to the Mitsu parts-counter guy. When asked how to remove the broken crank damper pulley bolt, he says: "You don't. Call the guy at Allied Machine Shop and pay him $250. You'll never get it out."


Of course, I had to try. For the record, here's the carnage:

Bolt:
[Linked Image]

Initial "Inspection Mirror" shot of crank:
[Linked Image]

After the break, I gave the area several liberal douses of PB-Blaster over the next few hours, and let it soak over night.

So... attempts to drill it out via my drill, and a right-angle adapter produced the following:

- Several dull drill bits (which I had to cut the shank off on in order to get to clear the radiator)
- A right-angle drill adapter with a melted casing and stripped gears
- Sore and bruised hands and ribs
- Enough progress to thread a #4 Easy-Out in to the bolt


Gradually increasing the force with which I attempted to turn the Easy-Out of course simply broke the Easy-Out.

Have I mentioned that Easy-Outs are incredibly hard?

At this point I've realized that I'm going to have to go thru the front. This involves the fun of:

- Draining the coolant
- Removing the front grill
- Removing the center support/latch/horn bracket assmbly (lots of bolts)
- Removing the fan assembly
- Removing the radiator (along with water and tranny hoses)
- Evacuating the freon from the A/C system
- Removing the A/C condensor (oof major PITA)
- Loosening the tranny cooler & lines
- Loosening the oil cooler

Here's what it looks like when all of that is gone (if you look closely, you can see the 'dull' spot in the center of the broken-off-crank-bolt... that's the broken easy-out):
[Linked Image]

Look at that shiny water pump!!


Several more hours, titanium drill bits, torch-heat application, and Dremel-tool grinding stones later, I was able to thread a #5 Easy-Out (the largest I could find) in there. Of course it broke too.

My buddy later broke yet another #4, and ground most of it out as well:
[Linked Image]

Eventually, I realized I wasn't gonna get it myself, and called in the reinforcements:
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

He had a awesome selection of carbide brinding tools, custom chisels, and metric long-bore taps. 90 minutes and $325 later he had it out. Some thread damage occurred, but there was still enough to hold over the 137 foot-pounds of torque the new bolt required.

My favorite quote from him: "You don't drill out easy-outs. You grind them." I must say I agree.

In the final analysis, a few things:

1) It would appear that somebody removed the pully before, and re-used the bolt but used a bunch of some sort of thread sealant. You can kind of make it out in the picture below, and it was evident that it had dripped out on to the large washer when it had been tightened down last.
[Linked Image]

2) Mitsubishi has changed the part number for this bolt, and the metal on the new bolt is different in appearance. Perhaps this has been an issue previously. (Or is related to the issue on the earlier model crank bolt problems?)

3) The bolt comes from the factory with some thread sealant already on it... I would recommend springing the $4 for a new bolt (and washer, actually... they deform a bit to hold the torque) if ever removing. I would avoid additional thread sealant.

4) Don't over tourque!

5) Be EXTREMELY careful using the "starter trick", or even how you manually attempt to remove the bolt. As you can see in the picture above, there is a "collar" on the bolt that seats on the pulley/washer, which is the clamping surface. The additional length to the head of the bolt is just to extend the bolt head out the front of the pulley depth so you can get to it. The end result of this is that any off-axis torque is multiplied along the bolt shaft. Given that long breaker bars are likely in this operation, there can be a LOT of lateral force exerted on the bolt shank. Be very careful about right-angles on your breaker bars, and fully seating your sockets.

And call the machinist early on.


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt Broken [Re: scaesare] #598984
05/13/05 07:35 PM
05/13/05 07:35 PM
LRJ4x4  Offline
Web Wheeler
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,725
Monterey, CA *****
Wow, what a PITA. I'm thinking about a GenII so I'll keep that in mind


98 Montero with cold weather package
96 Toyota Land Cruiser, fully locked Mall Machine :-)
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt Broken [Re: LRJ4x4] #598985
05/14/05 04:49 AM
05/14/05 04:49 AM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered

Wow. I used the starter trick on my '90 when I replaced the heads (& everything else while I was down there). When I think back to the cheap socket driver I bent in the process I now realize it could have been worse! In the future, perhaps I'll suggest people use a cheap driver so that the brunt of the force goes to it & not the bolt!

BTW, is your Monty the one that was up for auction in Florida? I recognize the unique repaint job on the moulding & remember thinking that the rig looked pretty interesting in that color scheme!

Re: Crank Pulley Bolt Broken #598986
05/14/05 01:30 PM
05/14/05 01:30 PM
S
scaesare  Offline OP
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
Shamer-

Yes it is! I'm new to the Montero ownership club, and this is the first I've heard that my paint job isn't factory.

I bought it in Jan, and flew down from VA to FL with a buddy and we drove it back. From my front door back to my driveway, we did it in 24 hours, including flight.

Incidentally, that dealership was pretty darn reasonable about the cost associated with replacing the seals, despite the fact that I bought it "AS IS".


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt Broken [Re: scaesare] #598987
05/16/05 04:37 AM
05/16/05 04:37 AM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered

Cool - I remember seeing that one but the bidding was a little beyond my wallet at the time. It looked liked it was in awesome condition.

To my knowledge, Mitsubishi never produced a monty with bronze mouldings - generally the black ones had silver moulding, but I have seen several with black which looks pretty sharp.

Anyway, hijack over!

Shawn

Re: Crank Pulley Bolt Broken #598988
05/16/05 01:37 PM
05/16/05 01:37 PM
S
scaesare  Offline OP
Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Ashburn, VA
(Is it really a hi-jack if I'm responding to the off-topic items, yet I'm the thread author? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> )

Now that you've mentioned this, i've been looking closely, and when I was applying Armor-All to the spare-tire cover yesterday, I realized that the lettering on the cover has some silver peaking thru, where whoever went over it with a gold paint-pen has some of it worn off.

Hehe.


-Steve
-1995 Montero SR 3.5L V6 DOHC
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt Broken [Re: scaesare] #598989
05/16/05 07:03 PM
05/16/05 07:03 PM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered

Post some pics of your rig. I'd like to see the custom trim paint. (but start a new thread in the talk) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Re: Crank Pulley Bolt Broken [Re: scaesare] #598990
05/17/05 04:16 AM
05/17/05 04:16 AM
MontyMcV  Offline
Trail Leader
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,340
Cleve-burg OH USA
$325 for 1-1/2 hours of work! Now that's a side job I'd love to have. (Not that I could do it. I'm sure I'd have called in the calvery if it happened to me.)

Nice saga... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> Glad there was a happy ending...


Big Truck: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 5-Spd drive line in hand!
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 65k
Daughter's: 06 Eclipse, Keeping it Mitsu!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com

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