Where does this electric to the solonoid come from?
The solonoids on my 2001 kia are not the same. Also the one on the passenger side has a vacuum line that seems to go to the back of the truck and then coming back to the hub. The line will not hold a vacuum Where does this line go, and what does it do?

Ok, I know it was mentioned earlier, but I never saw anyone really address this issue. Now I'm having it.

Front right suddenly starts pulling. Sounds like its randomly locking. I'm ordering the manual hubs right now.

Problem is, this is the only daily driver we have at the moment. Would it hurt anything if I just gutted the hub and drove it like that? Just long enough for the new hubs to get here? Or will it tear itself up like that?

Also, there is a tiny bit of play in the wheel bearing. still spins nice and smooth though. Is it normal to have a little play on these?

Might be easier if you just disconnected the vacuum line up in the engine bay. That way if you go through a puddle crap doesn't get sucked in the line or make its way down inside the hub from the exposed end if you pull it off at the top of the knuckle.

If you can feel the tiny bit of play with your wheel on the ground then you will probably need to tighten them when you install the Warn manuals. If you feel the play when the wheel is off the ground then it might be OK, but you should still check it with a pull gage when you are installing the Warn manuals.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Cool. I unplugged the vac solenoid in the engine bay, and gutted the right side hub. Seems to have fixed the problem....*crossed fingers*

The play was with the wheel in the air. Barely any play on the ground. Might be time soon. But I seriously doubt the bearing was the problem this time. Unless its failing differently than I've ever dealt with before.

Do those bearings get pressed in?

No, but the race does. There is one other bearing in the front end you will want to check when you have it open. Check the spindle bearing. The last time I pulled mine open and checked it, it was completely rusted over. I ended up having to cut it out, clean it out to bare metal again and replace the spindle bearing. This is the bearing the axle shaft rides on. It's only used when your front axle shaft is rotating, so it doesn't see a lot of use 90% of the time. However, it really kills your mileage when you put it in 4wd because you are rubbing the axle shaft against a frozen bearing. This causes a lot of ware and could end up causing the need to replace the axle. To really check it you have to pop the knuckle completely off. This involves popping off the tie rod ends and separating the knuckle from the lower ball joint. Please keep in mind typically when you do this you end up having to replace the lower ball joint and the tie rod end. So to simple test the bearing, with the wheel off and everything else removed down to the point where there is nothing left on the knuckle, spin the front axle shaft by hand and feel if there is a lot of drag. This way you don�t have to pop off the tie rod end or the lower ball joint. If there is a log of drag or a lot of play side to side/up to down, you probably need to replace this bearing. If it rotates easily and has very little play, the bearing is probably still good.

When you put on the Warn manuals, you may want to put a cap on the inlet pipe in the knuckle to keep water and other contamination from getting down inside to ruin this bearing. I replaced my hubs with Warn�s a while ago and didn�t cap off this vacuum inlet and over time moisture/water got down in there and killed the bearing.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I just pulled apart my passenger-side knuckle and found the needle bearings buried in rust, brake dust and mummified-grease. I went looking on-line for replacement bearings and the inner seals. It wasn't a very straight-forward task. I had to call the Kia dealer to get the part numbers because no one - not even Rock Auto - had the bearings or seals listed for my '97. After I had Kia's part numbers, I was able to cross-reference both the bearings and seals to aftermarket MFGs. The part numbers for both follow (just to spare others the pain and suffering I went through for 2 hours <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />)...

Front Knuckle/Spindle needle bearing (supports CV half-shaft):

Kia #0K01133152 (cross refs in Napa catalog)

SCE188 (cross refs with many bearing manufacturers)

Edit: Also found this one...
FAG Front Wheel Bearing, part #KIA027559



Inner seal (inner-side of knuckle):

Kia Part #0K08133065 (cross-refs in Napa catalog)

Beck-Arnley # 0523996 (1-piece)

Auto 7 (2-piece seal - everyone else is 1-piece):
Part # 1260010 + Part # 1260031

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Good info, when you get all your bearings and hubs squared away just remember to pull them apart at least once a year and clean and regrease everything to prevent it from happening again. Almost 200,000 miles on mine with regular maintance and no hub or bearing problems.

Dennis

ok i have a problem....i have warn manual hubs and 4x4 does not work....any ideas?

I have noticed that my Sporty will not engage the transfer case unless I shift into 4wd with the transmission in neutral (mine is an automatic). The "shift on the fly" doesn't work, perhaps because the vacuum system that engages the automatic hubs is disabled. But shifting from neutral does the job, on my rig, at least...

mine is a 5 spd., and i have the manual hubs....and it still won't engage 4wd...goes in 2wd low but front tires do not spin at all. i need to check and see if front ds spins in 4x4.