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Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: Axe Man] #615875 01/03/11 10:38 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1
L
lytning Offline
Need a Spot
Where does this electric to the solonoid come from?
The solonoids on my 2001 kia are not the same. Also the one on the passenger side has a vacuum line that seems to go to the back of the truck and then coming back to the hub. The line will not hold a vacuum Where does this line go, and what does it do?

Last edited by lytning; 01/04/11 02:56 AM.
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Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: lytning] #615876 01/10/11 07:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
D
DavidM Offline
Need a Spot
Ok, I know it was mentioned earlier, but I never saw anyone really address this issue. Now I'm having it.

Front right suddenly starts pulling. Sounds like its randomly locking. I'm ordering the manual hubs right now.

Problem is, this is the only daily driver we have at the moment. Would it hurt anything if I just gutted the hub and drove it like that? Just long enough for the new hubs to get here? Or will it tear itself up like that?

Also, there is a tiny bit of play in the wheel bearing. still spins nice and smooth though. Is it normal to have a little play on these?

Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: DavidM] #615877 01/10/11 09:37 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,221
logansportage Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Might be easier if you just disconnected the vacuum line up in the engine bay. That way if you go through a puddle crap doesn't get sucked in the line or make its way down inside the hub from the exposed end if you pull it off at the top of the knuckle.

If you can feel the tiny bit of play with your wheel on the ground then you will probably need to tighten them when you install the Warn manuals. If you feel the play when the wheel is off the ground then it might be OK, but you should still check it with a pull gage when you are installing the Warn manuals.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


White 1998 4 door KIA Sportage 4x4 w/Eibach 2.5 spring lift and TJ rear coils, 4crawler 1.5 body lift, Monroe Sensa.trac shocks, Bosch 4+ plugs, Eaton LSD, 31x10.5x15 BFG KM tires, 2.5 cat back exhaust w/SpinTech muffler
Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: logansportage] #615878 01/10/11 10:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
D
DavidM Offline
Need a Spot
Quote
Might be easier if you just disconnected the vacuum line up in the engine bay. That way if you go through a puddle crap doesn't get sucked in the line or make its way down inside the hub from the exposed end if you pull it off at the top of the knuckle.

If you can feel the tiny bit of play with your wheel on the ground then you will probably need to tighten them when you install the Warn manuals. If you feel the play when the wheel is off the ground then it might be OK, but you should still check it with a pull gage when you are installing the Warn manuals.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


Cool. I unplugged the vac solenoid in the engine bay, and gutted the right side hub. Seems to have fixed the problem....*crossed fingers*

The play was with the wheel in the air. Barely any play on the ground. Might be time soon. But I seriously doubt the bearing was the problem this time. Unless its failing differently than I've ever dealt with before.

Do those bearings get pressed in?

Last edited by DavidM; 01/10/11 10:04 PM.
Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: DavidM] #615879 01/10/11 10:28 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,221
logansportage Offline
Body Damage is Cool
No, but the race does. There is one other bearing in the front end you will want to check when you have it open. Check the spindle bearing. The last time I pulled mine open and checked it, it was completely rusted over. I ended up having to cut it out, clean it out to bare metal again and replace the spindle bearing. This is the bearing the axle shaft rides on. It's only used when your front axle shaft is rotating, so it doesn't see a lot of use 90% of the time. However, it really kills your mileage when you put it in 4wd because you are rubbing the axle shaft against a frozen bearing. This causes a lot of ware and could end up causing the need to replace the axle. To really check it you have to pop the knuckle completely off. This involves popping off the tie rod ends and separating the knuckle from the lower ball joint. Please keep in mind typically when you do this you end up having to replace the lower ball joint and the tie rod end. So to simple test the bearing, with the wheel off and everything else removed down to the point where there is nothing left on the knuckle, spin the front axle shaft by hand and feel if there is a lot of drag. This way you donít have to pop off the tie rod end or the lower ball joint. If there is a log of drag or a lot of play side to side/up to down, you probably need to replace this bearing. If it rotates easily and has very little play, the bearing is probably still good.

When you put on the Warn manuals, you may want to put a cap on the inlet pipe in the knuckle to keep water and other contamination from getting down inside to ruin this bearing. I replaced my hubs with Warnís a while ago and didnít cap off this vacuum inlet and over time moisture/water got down in there and killed the bearing.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


White 1998 4 door KIA Sportage 4x4 w/Eibach 2.5 spring lift and TJ rear coils, 4crawler 1.5 body lift, Monroe Sensa.trac shocks, Bosch 4+ plugs, Eaton LSD, 31x10.5x15 BFG KM tires, 2.5 cat back exhaust w/SpinTech muffler
Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: logansportage] #615880 12/17/11 03:37 AM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 326
Peabody Offline
Mudrunner
I just pulled apart my passenger-side knuckle and found the needle bearings buried in rust, brake dust and mummified-grease. I went looking on-line for replacement bearings and the inner seals. It wasn't a very straight-forward task. I had to call the Kia dealer to get the part numbers because no one - not even Rock Auto - had the bearings or seals listed for my '97. After I had Kia's part numbers, I was able to cross-reference both the bearings and seals to aftermarket MFGs. The part numbers for both follow (just to spare others the pain and suffering I went through for 2 hours <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />)...

Front Knuckle/Spindle needle bearing (supports CV half-shaft):

Kia #0K01133152 (cross refs in Napa catalog)

SCE188 (cross refs with many bearing manufacturers)

Edit: Also found this one...
FAG Front Wheel Bearing, part #KIA027559



Inner seal (inner-side of knuckle):

Kia Part #0K08133065 (cross-refs in Napa catalog)

Beck-Arnley # 0523996 (1-piece)

Auto 7 (2-piece seal - everyone else is 1-piece):
Part # 1260010 + Part # 1260031

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Last edited by Peabody; 12/17/11 08:34 AM.

1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: Peabody] #615881 12/17/11 09:18 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,396
DennisThompson Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Good info, when you get all your bearings and hubs squared away just remember to pull them apart at least once a year and clean and regrease everything to prevent it from happening again. Almost 200,000 miles on mine with regular maintance and no hub or bearing problems.

Dennis


95 Sportage, gone but not forgotten.
98 Jeep TJ, 4" Zone springs with RC Long arms, Ford 8.8", 4.56 gears & Detroit locker rear, D30, 4.56 & Detroit Trutrack front.
Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: DennisThompson] #615882 06/06/12 01:15 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 34
4x4troy Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
ok i have a problem....i have warn manual hubs and 4x4 does not work....any ideas?

Last edited by 4x4troy; 06/06/12 02:41 AM.
Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: 4x4troy] #615883 06/06/12 03:11 AM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 326
Peabody Offline
Mudrunner
I have noticed that my Sporty will not engage the transfer case unless I shift into 4wd with the transmission in neutral (mine is an automatic). The "shift on the fly" doesn't work, perhaps because the vacuum system that engages the automatic hubs is disabled. But shifting from neutral does the job, on my rig, at least...


1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
Re: READ FIRST IF YOUR 4WD DOES NOT WORK [Re: Peabody] #615884 06/06/12 03:59 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 34
4x4troy Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
mine is a 5 spd., and i have the manual hubs....and it still won't engage 4wd...goes in 2wd low but front tires do not spin at all. i need to check and see if front ds spins in 4x4.


1995 Kia sportage 4x4 2.0 dohc auto...Mine

2000 kia sportage 4x4 2.0 dohc 5spd...Melissa's

2002 Kia sportage 2wd 2.0 doch 5 spd...parts truck
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