It's an open front diff (as Peabody just said) so if you're really stuck and you mash the fun pedal you'll have one-wheel peels on both axles. But it does make a huge difference anyway. The "other" ones look like Chinese junk to me. If you want something cheaper than the Warns, hit the boneyards and find a 4x4 Mazda B-truck (one of the brick-shaped ones before they turned them into a Ranger with upside-down taillights), the manual hubs on those are a direct bolt-on if you have the awful vacuum hubs, though you have to swap the axle nut and retainer if you have the centrifugals.
I just bought the warn locking hubs on amazon and they should be here Monday. Hopefully, the install will go as easy as everyone says and I will get some more traction in the snow. Thanks to everyone for their advice.
If anyone is interested, I'm selling a set of the WARN manual lockers that I recently put on my 2002. (Not sure if this is the proper place to post this. Mod. please advise). See my post here on previous page.
My Sporty has died and I'm trading it in. These hubs have been locked in for literally less than 500 ft. When I installed them, the only snow was in the yard, so I drove it around there to test them and they worked fine. Of course, there has been no snow here since then.
I'll sell them for $75 for the set. PM me. Thanks.
Question for those of you with Warn manual locking hubs.
Even though I own an Isuzu, I'm always on the lookout at the junk yards for manual locking hubs, doesn't matter what type of vehicle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
I found a pair of Warn hubs on a '99 Sportage that I salvaged and before I put them up for sale, I would like to know if the retainer ring is required or just the hub and 6 bolts? Pictured is what I got. Thanks in advance for any advice. Edit, won't let me upload an attch.
Maybe a stupid question. i just got avm hubs today, from what i gather the install is pretty simple. Do i need to get grease and grease the hubs or anything? it isn't mentioned anywhere in the instructions
The hubs should already be greased inside from the factory. I would spread some grease on the inside of the splines if they are dry. Other than that, it should be a simple, bolt-on application...
And a word of caution from my own error - don't get any kind of form-a-gasket or RTV sealant inside the thread holes if you elect to use such a sealant between the hub and the locking body. I discovered the hard way that those compounds expand or outgas when heated. If that happens inside the bolt hole, which is effectively sealed by the bolt and the sealant, it will cause the hub body to bulge exactly where the outer wheel bearing race sits. And that, as I can tell you from experience, will deform the bearing race and destroy the bearing. I had to replace both hubs and wheel bearings because of that - a pricey lesson learned. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> Here's proof...
1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
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