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Re: tick, tick, tick...oh my [Re: n2dp] #712642
04/05/06 06:50 PM
04/05/06 06:50 PM
W
Winston  Offline
Rock Warrior
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 509
SF Bay Area
Parafin does not equal Wax. The parafin that you buy in the grocery store (wax) is not what is in Pennzoil.

New oils (API SM) are ALL very very good. In the past, synthetic oils would keep your engine much cleaner than regular oils. Today, not so much difference in cleanlinss between regular and synthetic.

The noise will vary with the viscosity of the oil. Generally(not always), lifters like thinner oil. Not all 10W30 oils are the same viscosity. They are within a range of viscosity's. High Mileage oils are generally thicker than regular oils. So, if HM oil made your engine noisier, it is probably because your lifters like thinner oil. You can find out the actual viscosity of an oil on the oil manufacturers web site. Beware, mfg tend to change the blend and viscosity every few years.

Diesel rated oil, (HDMO) is good stuff, but it generally has more additives that can harm your catalytic converter if your engine burns a lot of oil.

20W50 is to thick for these engines unless you have an oil pressure problem.

My 02.


'90 Montero XLS (Sold, sadly)
'95 Montero LS 160k
'03 Montero Limited 30k
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Re: tick, tick, tick...oh my [Re: lochabay] #712643
04/06/06 12:40 AM
04/06/06 12:40 AM
FrankR  Offline
Web Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
Columbia, SC ****
Quote
Are there any old engines anywhere that don't tick?


Yes - mine. It's as quiet and smooth as silk at 140k miles.... and uses that nasty old Pennzoil 10W-30, changed (along with OE filter) at 3k mile intervals. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> In fairness, I did rebuild it about 5k miles ago. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> When I tore it down, there was no evidence of sludge, varnish, heat scorched oil deposits, valve deposits or any other sign of damage from poor oil quality.... but also in fairness, I bought the truck with 130k miles and don't know what oil the previous owner used..... but - whatever he used, I'd have to question, since before I rebuilt it, the cylinders were egg-shaped, the rings were worn, one cylinder was 15psi below the others and it ticked like crazy. He probably used that terrific Castrol or Mobil 1. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

C'mon guys - use a quality oil, change it often and rebuild your engine when it needs it..... no one should complain about the valve train on a car after 150k miles - particularly if you haven't owned the truck since new and/or don't know if the oil, filter and air filter has been changed at recommended intervals - or sooner with severe duty - or if the truck has been used for towing.

I've used Pennzoil in every engine - including marine engines, motor homes, lawn mowers and generators - since 1970 and before..... all were perfectly fine, except I did have one engine blow when the oil pump seized on a MB 300D.... with over 300k miles on the clock. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Those who run thicker oils as a remedy for low oil pressure are only buying time. Low indicated oil pressure with recommended 10W-30 is a sign you have problems with main bearing clearances or a bad oil pump. If the upper end is ok and you go to a heavier oil, you'll get better pressure on the mains, but flow will likely decrease on tighter clearances such as the valve train. Reduced flow in normal clearance areas will then result in less lubrication, more heat throughout the engine (approximately 1/2 of heat is eliminated via oil flow/heat transfer) and accelerated wear on otherwise good components will result - so while you're extending the time to a rebuild by using a heavier oil, you're probably increasing wear on more components and making for a larger list of replacement parts when the engine dies and a rebuild becomes mandatory.

An engine is like any other part of an old truck.... sometimes it needs some attention. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Last edited by FrankR; 04/06/06 01:15 AM.
Re: tick, tick, tick...oh my [Re: FrankR] #712644
04/06/06 01:38 AM
04/06/06 01:38 AM
LRJ4x4  Offline
Web Wheeler
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,725
Monterey, CA *****
I believe it, I've seen pictures of your engine bay and your garage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> You must be running the Pennzoil "Pure Base" they spent a lot of money getting rid of the parrifin issue with marketing. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />


98 Montero with cold weather package
96 Toyota Land Cruiser, fully locked Mall Machine :-)
Re: tick, tick, tick...oh my [Re: LRJ4x4] #712645
04/06/06 02:34 AM
04/06/06 02:34 AM
FrankR  Offline
Web Wheeler
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
Columbia, SC ****
I don't care much about any of the marketing hype from any of the refiners - I use the conventional 10W-30 like this:

Pennzoil

I'm not saying it's any better than any other quality oil - nor am I saying other choices are inferior. Everyone's free to choose and believe what they will. Some folks are susceptible to marketing hype - others have very good reasons to believe one oil is better for their application than another. I guess that's why they have that paramutual window at the horse tracks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I believe the choice is a very personal one, but I don't like to denigrate one product to make another look good.... sell the product on its own merits - not by running down another one, hopefully leading the mark to the conclusion that the only way to salvation is by buying this "wonderful" product to save himself from the "evils" of another.

All I'm saying is I can attest to way over a million miles driven on plain ol' Pennzoil - not counting the offshore extreme-duty marine engines, generators and lawn mowers - all loved Pennzoil and only one ever complained when the oil pump quit with my wife driving and she didn't see the pressure drop - seized engine resulted.... don't know if I can blame the oil after 300k miles.... and I sure know better than to blame her. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Use a quality oil, change it (and the oil/air filters) often, keep your cooling system in top shape and you should get good service from most any engine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: tick, tick, tick...oh my [Re: FrankR] #712646
04/17/06 03:01 AM
04/17/06 03:01 AM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered

I stop the tick by turning off engine for 4 or 5 sec.start it back up and mmmmmmmmmmm no tttiiiccckkkiiinnnggg.

Re: tick, tick, tick...oh my #712647
04/17/06 03:08 AM
04/17/06 03:08 AM
n2dp  Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 64
Centerton, AR
It is such an odd thing. One day it ticks forever and the next it's quiet as a mouse. I have been driving it to work, but that is less than 10 miles each day. Hopefully, I will be able to put a couple of hundred on it next weekend.


1988 Raider, 2.6L (Weber carb, PaceSetter header, Centerforce D/F clutch, 5-Speed M/T, 33X12.50 Pro Comp M/T, 15X8 US Wheel 97 Series)
3" Body Lift
Re: tick, tick, tick...oh my [Re: n2dp] #712648
04/17/06 03:30 AM
04/17/06 03:30 AM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered

ya that ticking is crazy if it ticks when you first start it up tune it off and back on

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