got comp numbers for my 200,000 mile 3vze today. driver f to b 170 150 170. pass f to b 175 175 170. seem pretty good to me. i had the hg done under recall about 70k ago. and other than that, i have done nothing but maintain it. so i'm pretty happy.

i am getting a code 25 - lean condition. don't know why. truck runs great, plugs look good, o2 sensors (before and after cat) have just been replaced with denso units. any thoughts on that would be appreciated. the only thing i can think is that my stock air box just has a big hole in it, cuz i took the plastic pieces out that route it behind the light. it tripped the ck engine lt within a short time after that. don't see why that would have anything to do with it but that is the only thing i changed around the time the light came on.

I wouldn't think thaat removing those pieces from the airbox would cause it to register lean either. I run an open K&N element and have never had it do that. You may have a vaccum leak that is allowing unmetered air in, even though it is running fine. Check the air intake hose for cracks around the throttle body, and along the vaccum lines, then reset the ecu and see if the code returns. If it doies you want to hunt down the problem, a lean mixture will lead to burnt valves. Also you might want to consider adjusting, the valves on the #4 cyl.(D-side center). You are right at the 20psi difference between cyls., which is the bottom end for being within specs.

if i drop some oil in #4 and the comp comes up then it would indicate rings and not valves, right? is it worth doing, really?? sounds like a real PITA. do i have to worry about cam wear on that cyl? i mean, come on, its got 200,000 miles. if i re shim that valve do i get 260k instead of 250K? i'm just asking cuz i don't know. the only reason i had it tested is because i was curious. it runs awesome and gets good gas milage. i don't want to dismantle stuff and cause more trouble.

What kind of mileage are you getting on your 3vze?

its kinda hard to tell. i got 315/75-16s and 5.29s. i think that makes the speedo close. maybe reads a bit faster than i am going? 1 or 2 MPH. with that in mind, i can get 300 miles outta a tank on the hwy. 270 or so round town. and i got a big dent in the bottom of my tank. i figure 17-19 mpg or so. i actually figure it out everytime i fill up but with out knowing exactly how many miles i'm going, i don't know fo sure.

Yes, if you squirt some oil in and the comp goes up then it is the rings and, not much you can do onm the cheap. However, if the comp stays the same, then you may be starting to have a valve issue, i.e., they are starting to get a little tight, which if allowed to go will lead to a burnt valve and then a head job. The bottom end of the 3.0 should be good for 300k+ if taken care of, so a valve shim shouldn't be considered a waste of money since you only have 200k now. If you burn a valve you are looking at $1-2k(depending on who does the work) for a valve job the heads, or less than $300 for the dealer to adjust(shim) the valves. Though if you are considering selling the rig or need a reason for swapping in a 3.4, then you couild let it go. I would squirt some oil in there and see what numbers you get, then decide from there.

On another note, you are running the same size tires as I am on my '91 trail rig. What combo of lift are you running? So far I have I am using 4crawlers 2" blocks and mod'd the fenders wells back to the body mounts to clear the tires. I am planning on running the ball joint spacers to get a more clearance.

thanks for the advice. i will probably just let it go so as to justify a 3.4 more quickly.

as to the lift - 1" rb body, bj spacers, stock rear leaves w/extra unknown leaf, 3" longer shackle, 8" wide alum rims w/3.5" backspace, 3/4" alum spacer in the front.

basically no rubbing at all. and you can't really see where i cut, so it dosn't look all hacked up. i did take 2" out all the way around the front fender, but that was really to remove the rust, not for clearance. i'm running yokohama geolander mt+ and they seem ALOT wider than the BFGs that i had of the same size. going to the total chaos idler arm took care of the last of the rubbing problems that i had. lemme know if you have anymore ? if i had it to do over again, i would have gone w/ a 2" bl, lot less trimming and no hood cutting when the 3.4 goes in. but everything else has worked out great.

bj spacers don't give you more clearance. you get more travel which means you have to cut more....believe me, i am speaking from exp.

I took about 2" out of the fenders as well, then welded a 3/16 wire along the edge for strength, and the welded the wheel well shield tabs back onto the fender so I can run an inner cover. Once I get the cover on it will look almost stock.

The rims I am using are a 16x10, with a 3.75 bs. Right now there isn't any rubbing when wheels are at full turn on pavement, and some rubbing off pavement. I am still in the building process so I haven't really tried anything to work the susp.

Don't the BJ spacers yeild 1.5" of lift? I know they allow more wheel travel, I would like a little more lift w/o cranking the t-bars. I have cut pounded pretty much everything I can with the fenders, the next step would be to tub them, though I wouldn't gain much more clearance with them already back to the body mounts. I had originally planned to tub them, then I figured if I do do an SAS, tubbing would be a waste of time since I would move the front axle 2" forward with the SAS. I figure once I have the BJ spacers on, if I still rub to much, I will drop to a 305. The 315's on 16 10's stand at 35", whch is taller than normal 35's on 15's, so I could co smaller.

For the rear I was planning on either 3" shackles, or building a set of springs, it really depends how motivated I get before now and then.

yeah, you can get lift outta the bj spacers, but in my case, with the extra travel, i had to do some more cutting to clear. i still gotta get some longer brake lines, different shocks, really i should get some taller shock mounts. etc...etc.. i might get a long travel total chaos kit soon, so i'm not too worried about that stuff. too hot here to wheel anyway.

Damn, sounds like your getting great milage from your V6. I typically get 220 miles on a tank with 31" Mt's. It's gotten a bit better with the top end rebuild but still far from 300!
One thing to check on that lean code is the accordian part of your intake. I had to replace mine after a small crack formed in one of the ribs. It would only open up under heavy acceleration, barely visable. Had to take the intake off and flex it to find the leak. Acura V6 intake tube fits BTW. Dealer wanted WAAAAY too much for a new one.