Fuel pump $22 at PnP, That's the next try for sure.

Got a tach installed this weekend and I can tell it was at about 1800 rpm's that it was cutting out, every gear, even parked.

Now I haven't had the prob for about two weeks then BAM, steady cruising about ten miles down brand new bumpless highway and it cut. Went away after about five miles of dealin' wit it. Then it came back that evening after about 75 miles of driving in between. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Now it seems it's been gone (for about two weeks) since I removed the cap, cleaned the terminals and the rotor but also did a few other things,

So this weekend I replaced it with a new brass contact set.

Been running it W/ my voltmeter hooked to the IDL circut on the ECU, but ya know the dang thing won't cut untill I get sick of the mess and put the ECU back and replace the kick cover.

So I'm done untill it cuts again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> Then off to get the fuel pump. Can't diagnose anything untill it's in that mode.

Looking at 110 here in a few days so I think I'll concentrate on charging that air conditioning <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> that'll be a good test for the peel n seal soundproofing. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Check out my earlier post on similar problem
Surging Idle Problem & Fix FYI
#825449 - 12/22/05 07:33 AM

I didn't get a chance to read through all the previous responses but figured I'd chime in. I know of two ways to make a very similar problem happen. The first is excessively high idle speed adjustment, and when the brake pedal is stepped on, the surging begins. If the brake is released, the surging goes away. The second way I know of to make this happen is low coolant or an air bubble. I routinely have this surging happen after I've flushed coolant or installed a new engine and I'm waiting for the engine to warm up and the t-stat to open. Now, while neither of these issues may directly be related to your problem, they may help. If there's an air bubble at the engine temp sensor, it will cause the surging. Have you checked or replaced your temp sensor? Second, the computer knows the brakes are applied and cuts the injectors until the RPM's drop down (below around 1300RPM). The theory is that if you are braking, you are not stepping on the gas and don't need fuel. There's a basic switch on the brake pedal assembly that's responsible for turning the tailight's brake light bulbs on, but the wire does not run straight from the pedal to the bulbs. The wire goes through the computer, and that's how it knows the brakes are applied.

So, a few thoughts that come to mind are 1) malfunctioning computer, 2) improperly adjusted brake pedal switch 3) malfunctioning temp sensor.

Whatever the issue is, it appears to be an all or nothing deal. Meaning, it's not just affecting one cylinder such as would be the case with a bad wire or plug. It's affecting everything, and it's symptoms are very similar to an air bubble at the temp sensor or high idle.

Loosen your gas cap and see how it drives; might not be ventilating properly.

??? Think of how fluids flow out of a container that have the vent cap left on; same deal.

Something cheap to eliminate for a change.