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Bob's 3.0L Engine #747797 08/27/06 06:35 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline OP
Web Wheeler
****
Bob (87_Montero) was kind enough to lend me his blown engine for use in my S/C project. I agreed to rebuild it in exchange for his effort in getting it to me and his patience while I did the mockup work. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I started taking it apart this morning - found some jelly in #3:
[Linked Image]

It looks like the cylinder head lifted and the gasket breached between #3 and #5 cylinders - note non-OE gasket set:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
The head appears to confirm a breach between the cylinders:
[Linked Image]
I don't know yet what caused the tracks between the #3 plug and valve - maybe residue from burnt coolant:
[Linked Image]

The driver side seems fine, but appears it was on the way to blowing as well:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

I'm now at a standstill - the crankshaft timing sprocket is rusted to the crank - so far I've managed to mangle the sprocket, but not enough to get it off. A WD-40 soak and heat on the sprocket didn't work... I guess next I'll try PB Blaster and freon on the crank nose. Payback's Hell... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: FrankR] #747798 08/27/06 06:51 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 927
Macka Offline
Rock Warrior
why don't you weld a bolt to the sprocket and use a slide hammer? or weld 2 studs and use a harmonic balancer puller?


always working
Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: Macka] #747799 08/27/06 06:55 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline OP
Web Wheeler
****
No welder here at home. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: FrankR] #747800 08/27/06 07:13 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,896
sparkem Offline
Trail Leader
***
I have had good results with PB, but mine has never been rusted stuck.


I just want to tell you both good luck, and we're all counting on you.
Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: FrankR] #747801 08/27/06 07:28 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 927
Macka Offline
Rock Warrior
Quote
No welder here at home. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Frank

gear puller?


always working
Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: Macka] #747802 08/27/06 09:58 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline OP
Web Wheeler
****
There's not enough room for a gear puller.... anyway, it's finally off - took about 4 hours of using a big cold chisel as a wedge and a huge offset screwdriver as a pry.... with a 40 oz. shop hammer as a coaxer.... sacrificed the oil pump and sprocket in the doing, though - was going to replace the oil pump anyway, so the only victim was a $30 sprocket. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> The nose of the crankshaft is fairly pitted with rust - still useable after a polishing, but if the last builder had put some anti-sieze on the nose, things would have been a little easier.

Moving on to the bottom end - assuming the block and heads are ok, there's no question of a head gasket breach - water in the oil is very obvious:
[Linked Image]

Bob, better put an oil pickup tube on the parts list - that thing's nasty.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> ... I can clean it in the parts washer, but I wouldn't trust it - your call.

That's enough for today. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> Next session, I'll take a look at the cylinder bores, crankshaft journals, pistons and rods.... I'm guessing they're ok and hopefully will only need a cylinder hone, journal polish with new bearings and rings - if the engine was bored when it was last rebuilt - if not, it'll have to be bored and new pistons installed.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: FrankR] #747803 08/27/06 10:35 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,727
LRJ4x4 Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
Yum, Caramel milkshake <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />


98 Montero with cold weather package
96 Toyota Land Cruiser, fully locked Mall Machine :-)
Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: LRJ4x4] #747804 08/28/06 05:43 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 13,649
fasteddy Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
I split the sprocket with a whiz wheel and a wedge. Cut a groove down one side and drive in the wedge. They crack pretty easy. Some of them have "lightening" holes in the front face that tap out pretty easy to 8mm like the most common mitsu bolt, but the threads are a little weak for real pulling. The sprocket is powdered metal, and if at all mangled, I'd replace it.

Rod that radiator, Bob....


Not responsible for advice not taken...
Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: fasteddy] #747805 08/28/06 11:44 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline OP
Web Wheeler
****
Oh, yeah - it's mangled alright! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I did consider trying to split it with a chisel and hammer - even looked longingly at my air chisel, but in the end, my determination and insistence worked. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine [Re: FrankR] #747806 08/29/06 03:16 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline OP
Web Wheeler
****
First glance at the bottom end suggests good news - it hasn't been long since this one was overhauled - guess the gasket blew shortly after the rebuild.

Rod bearings look new:
[Linked Image]
Crankshaft journals are nearly perfect:
[Linked Image]
Crankshaft bearings are like new - here you can see why the bottom end of a 3.0L is so stout... the main bearing saddle provides a great deal of stability:
[Linked Image]
The cylinder bores look fine, but I'll have to put a dial readout gauge on them to see if they need boring - probably will. Note the lack of honing marks - probably wasn't bored/honed on the rebuild... pistons appear to be original 3.587":
#1
[Linked Image]
#2
[Linked Image]
#3
[Linked Image]
#4
[Linked Image]
#5
[Linked Image]
#6
[Linked Image]

When I was a kid, I would have reinstalled the crankshaft as is and re-used the same bearings on a bottom end that looks this good, but I'll take it to the machine shop and make sure all the clearances are correct - don't wanna be doing any warranty work for forum members. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

The block's gonna need at least honing and if that's all, maybe the original pistons can be re-used (if the ring grooves are still ok) - BUT - I suspect it'll have to be bored .010-.020" and new pistons installed.

It looks like the last rebuild was a freshen-up job with new bearings and gaskets - also the rings were likely replaced, since there was no carbon ridge at the cylinder tops. Anyway, I've sure seen a lot worse to work with than this. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Last edited by FrankR; 08/29/06 03:21 AM.

'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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