Before you do anything, park your rig on a level, flat surface. Don't try to do this on an inclined or uneven surface. Don't jack the vehicle.....you want to leave the suspension settled in its natural state, as it normally would be after driving it. It's okay to manipulate the torsion bars while the vehicle's weight is still being supported by them. You're not going to be removing any nuts, bolts, or any other supporting hardware.
Measure your current ride-height. Measure both left and right sides before you start. You can measure:
center of wheels to top of wheelwells
floor to undercarriage
floor to body-feature
top of tire to top of wheelwell
anything else which catches your eye
The important thing is to take numerous measurements before you start, that way you'll have a baseline for your progress. Measure, then measure again. Again, both sides.
Loosen the adjusting nut on one side. There is another nut right below it - hold it with another wrench to prevent it from spinning while loosening the adjusting nut. Once you have the adjusting nut loose, keep a wrench on the nut below it then tighten the anchor arm bolt. It'll take quite a few cranks to get some lift. You may not want to tighten it all the way because you're suspension may end up being rather stiff. Once you're done, tighten the adjusting nut back up. Repeat with other side.
You may want to trim down the rebound stoppers (bump stops) on the upper control arms so that you still retain a little articulation. There are two bump stops on each upper control arm. One forward and one aft. They can be trimmed down with a hacksaw, but take them off the rig first before trimming (it'll be a lot easier to trim if not encumbered by all the other stuff in the way).
Lastly, once you're done and have everything where you want it to be, get a front-end alignment done