Bumping my old post in this thread. Don't have the ODs measured. The Jeep springs are of similar height and OD. But the steel rod used for the coils is notably thicker on the 106AA vs 105AA. Hope that helps. If needed, I can jack my Sporty up and measure the springs.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Mr. Peabody, It would be great if you could measure the actual rod diameter. My eyes are not what the use to be. I can see the difference in your pictures but trying to compare my springs to your pictures <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I'm sure this would be of help for others down the road as well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Measured the springs today. The 106AA "equivalent" (aftermarket purchased from RockAuto) measured 5/8 inch diameter, while the 105AA (the real deal) measured 19/32 inch diameter... slightly smaller, but measurable.

Peabody, what, if anything, did you do on the front to prevent the CV boots from rubbing?

I'm getting between .572-.585 (rotating my calipers)which which is just under 19/32 so they must be 104AA or 105AA.

This is good news as I really didn't want to lift 4". I have a two door (with a Rally Top shell & removed rear seat) so I could see more than 3" of lift.

On the front I'm debating on replacing the springs. I had an alignment done mid October and the shop said they could not get the camber in spec as the front end has too much sag. It definitely needs from struts as the passenger side is leaking.

I haven't had a problem with the CVs rubbing. However, they make contact with the upper fork when the wheel is hanging. I've considered devising a stop to limit the amount of hang, but haven't followed up on that thought. The other option would be to lower the front diff, as some have done. But that's easier to do with the non-american Sporties because one of the brackets is different. I'm a bit hesitant to go the route of lowering the diff, as I see it defeating the goal of gaining max clearance for the undercarriage. I'd rather have the inch or two of clearance and less articulation in the front end than knocking an aluminum axle housing on a rock. But that's just my opinion.

FYI: Rescue Tape can seal small holes in your CV boot. I used it to patch mine after discovering the limit of travel... the hard way... and it's holding up well. Definitely worth keeping a few rolls in you rig for emergency repairs on the trail. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Peabody. So even with a 4" lift, the only time the CV boot rubs is when the wheel is at full hang? That is not so bad, seems like you could just be mindful when you are in these kind of situations. Id say 99% of my driving would not include those kind of situations. Im just building a trail rig, but we all like to push it once in a while haha.

Actually I might try to contact the guy in Korea to see if the 50mm fork extensions are still available. This really seems like the ideal solution and they aren't HUGE so maybe shipping won't be ridiculous. Any downside to using fork extensions?

Extended forks will give the same CV boot rub if the lift is the same, it rubs on the lower suspension arm at full hang. The biggest downside to these forks is they're not available any more <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> at least I tried and was told they can't be had in Korea.. if you find some let me know!!

Working on it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Hopefully have some news early next year <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Cheers Chris <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I thought the extended forks were supposed to fix the CV boot rubbing issue?? Are you saying it just makes it rub on something else?

Who are you talking to 4runner? I just tried emailing picorp yesterday, still waiting for a response.