If you go with electric, pay attention to the pressure. I do not recall the source, but there are some write-ups about electric fuel pumps replacing manual pumps.

You would need to do a google search.

The fuel pumps have 1 way valves in them. If you just put an electric pump before the mechanical pump, it will push fuel to the carb no problem and you can leave it all well enough alone. Then again... If you don't want it to look that ugly under the hood a block off plate will fix that right up...

If it were me, I'd install the electric pump in line with the system just to prove to myself that there was a fuel delivery issue before I removed the mechanical pump.

If it were me I'd leave well enough alone! A lectric pump needs a few things you won't be able to install in there. Like a roll-over switch..
As cheap as mechanical pumps are, just install a new one of those and forgetaboutit!
One day that Jeep may just get into trouble and start squirting fuel out when you don't want it too. I advise staying with the mechanical pump.
Big JIm

I am leaning to the simplicity is better concept myself.

Just remember, when messing around with fuel lines, always use NEW rubber hose....

When in doubt replace that hose....

the pump is a brand new one and it was workin fine and then i got stuck in the mud and i got pulled out and i was wrappin the strap back up and the jeep was idling and all of a sudden it just shut off, and now the fuel pump isnt pushin enough

Any fuel lines bent???

Yoto tell us how you know for sure the pump isn't pushing enough fuel? If it is pushing any fuel, after a minute or less of cranking it should at least pop and crackle.. Have you poured a bit of fuel into the open carb to see if it runs thataway?
You do know that it pumps squirts out and not a full stream of fuel..but the squirts are plenty to keep her running at full speed. There should be about 6 pounds of pressure.
Big JIm

Like BigJim said, I'd stick with the stock replacement mechanical pump for a carb'd engine, it will last 10 years or so and cost under $20. The late 258 fuel pumps include a roll over valve in them.

I would add that you should carefully inspect all of the rubber hoses on the suction side of the pump all the way back to the fuel tank sender, any small crack in the hose or a loose clamp can allow the pump to pull in air instead of fuel. It may also be seeping fuel. If the rubber hoses are over 10 years old, replace them, they don't last forever! Usually, the stampings on the hose contain a date code. I'd almost bet that your rubber hoses to the tank are from '76!

Marty are you saying the newer intank pumps have the rollover protection right there in the pump itself? I hadn't heard of this happening before your post.. I wonder how one resets a device like that?
I'm gonna have to find a schemetic and look at one of those.
Big JIm

when i spray carb cleaner in the carb it will fire off and run i hooked up an electric pump that says its 5.5 to 9 psi and it was runnin good but as soon as i floored it for a little bit its like the carb ran dry???? i think im gonna try the mechanical again with a boat gas tank and some fuel line