Ummmm, I don't think you can do that any more. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

oops! fixed <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

thanks for the right up! I should be picking my 8" IFS up in a few hours <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

6 and a half hours later with my uncle not knowing a clue what to do we pulled it!
4.625, 107k miles, $110! giggity giggity <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />


Now to buy lockout hubs, 1" BJ spacer, Gen2 arms, Gen2 brakes, and Aussie locker all to go in at once and not pull it apart 5 times <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Looks nice, I hope you grabbed the driveshaft.

damn...






<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> they're different I assume? Well, gives me an excuse to go tomorrow! I forgot some other stuff aswell... In FL they don't have as many junk cars(no rust) so I grabed it before some messican did...and I only guessed what I should need <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

It was an early afternoon of rework, for sure not my favorite thing to do. 2 things required redo.

1. I was unpacking my parts container getting ready to get going today and noticed I had 4 brass thrust washers - crap! I forgot to install it on the already together Left side. Dropped it all apart again to reassemble.

Don't forget this:


It goes here:



2. The FSM seams a bit vague on how to assemble the Aisin hubs. First try I didn't have it correct. The FSM doesn't show that the Tension Spring needs to be wound into the Free Wheeling Hub Clutch. So I was perma locked



Finally have the whole Left side together, all the bolts properly torqued and new cotter-pins installed.



On to the driveshaft - working my way across the vehicle. I didn't see this documented anywhere. The 2.6l driveshaft is about 1" too long. It didn't bolt up - just too long. Measuring up the V6 dif quickly from the pinion flange to the cover it is almost 1" longer than the 2.6l dif.

This is the 2.6l shaft measuring 26 1/4" U Joint center to center:



This is the V6 shaft measuring 25 1/4" U Joint center to center:


Glad I still had the V6 shaft. Please note that pulling the driveshaft from the transfercase is a quick way to evacuate the lube. I have Redline all over my driveway now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

The Left side is all together now too, but waiting for daylight to torque it up. Hopefully it is dry here on Sunday.

What do I fill the new dif with? I have several quarts of Mobile 1 75W 90. Is this OK?

Good write-up! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

75-90 synthetic should work very well in the diff.

So the V6 front driveshaft fits the 4 cyl. t-case with no mods? Did that V6 25-1/4" shaft come from the same manual trans V6 Raider as the diff? Is the 4 cyl a stick or auto? Would an auto trans V6 front driveshaft be longer? Would the early 3 speed 904 auto trans 4 cylinder shaft be shorter than the stick one?

Does anyone know if the Gen 2 reverse cut front diff assy. will fit the Gen 1 4 cyl. frame in a similar manner? Would the center axle disconnect be difficult to remove? 4.88's seem to be easier to find in Gen 2's and reverse cut is stronger in a front diff application. (I'm seeing alot of these in the yards from the clunker program <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> )

What about the Montero Sport front diff? Any advantage to that one? (Alot of these showing up, too)

Grasscat and Cheif (I think) have both swapped complete early SR suspesnion into there rigs. So Id say its doable