Excellent. Should be stickied

While reinstalling the axles, I found a minor issue -

You should check your axle end play and re-shim to 0.008-0.020". I replaced the passenger side shim with one 0.010" thicker to get 0.012" end play:


Frank

Nice job frank!.. Is that some rust I see on your truck??

Did your last post change Frank? What happened to the axle problem you were having? Yeah, I log onto here waaaayy to much. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Brendan - yes, the spiders did it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

JAgnew8 - yes, I was having trouble installing the driver side axle and thought the problem was a lack of a chamfer in the axle gear to collapse the circlip. So I removed the case assembly and checked the fit on the bench, saw that there is indeed a chamfer cut into the axle gears.... and found that the problem was my installation method. The fit is tighter than the OE gears and requires the outer axle end to be used as a driver...... a little trickier than the original. I was fussing at Aussie Locker unfairly, so I removed the post.

Frank

You really should say something about it ... Half the new lockers or lsd's I install ..If its got a clip ..Theres going to be a fight getting the axle in .. I've been greasing the clip to keep it in the middle of the axle for install that helps .. Allways look at a Lock-Right the chamfer can be off ...

Have a good day

David

Hazardous Toys inc

David -

After fooling with the axle for quite a while, I installed another circlip and had the same problem, so I took a look at the circlip under a magnifying glass and found marks that seemed to suggest that either there was no axle gear chamfer, or that the circlip wasn't centered:


I first re-greased the circlip and centered it in the shaft groove, carefully inserted the axle and tried again - no joy, so I pulled the case assembly, took a closer look and found the axle gears are indeed chamfered. Then, I tried installing the axle into the gear on the bench - no problem...... it went in easily so long as the angle was dead straight and if I used the outer axle end as a slide hammer:


And..... it came out easily with a good jerk - just like it should.

I never had this problem with the open OE differential - I suppose because the clearance is tighter with the Aussie gears. The issue is compounded by my Bilstein shocks which have a large diameter and make it difficult to get the right angle on the axle shaft for insertion. I'll have time to try it again on Thursday (my next day off) and I'll remove the shock. I'll bet it'll go in easily once the shock is out of the way so I can see the angle and get a better/straighter push on it.

I wasn't too thrilled about removing the case assembly again, but I found it much easier/faster to do the second time and used the opportunity to stake over the cross shaft lock pin hole, so all was not lost. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Looking at the photos I see a differance in the taper used to compress the snap ring between the OEM gear and the piece you are replacing it with.

From what I can see in the photos the factory part has a much better leading in to compress the snap ring.

Base on that the locker needs a bit more of a hit and possible some molly assembly lube to lower the friction.

Kevin

Dang good eye, Kevin..... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I hadn't compared the two, but after reading your comment, I looked at the photos and you're exactly right - there is a considerable difference in the lead-in taper angle..... like maybe 20� difference. That explains it.

Here's a view of the OE axle gear chamfer:


And here's the Aussie Locker's axle gear bevel:


I don't think I want to go to the expense of re-cutting that chamfer if I can get it to go in easily with the shock off.... and I don't really want to lose any spline length.... but maybe I'll try some ARP lube on it first before I remove the shock. It really doesn't need much of a bump if it's aligned perfectly straight - but the shock does get in the way of seeing the alignment - so perhaps in the end, it'll be less aggravating to remove the shock.

Good catch!

Frank

Maybe they designed it as such to maximize spline engagement with the axle, since it could possibly see a lot more stress because it's locked..