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Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: 69442] #981163 01/16/10 02:14 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 66
M
minydigger Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
When my calipers were sticking it made the peddle spongy like there was air in the lines.


94 Zj custom suspension and other stuff
01 F250 tow hoe 5" exhaust
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Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: minydigger] #981164 01/17/10 07:00 AM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 433
Sportege_Panicmech Offline
Mudrunner
Need to pinpoint which corner the squeek is coming from and then inspect it. Soft, spongy pedal can occur after new brakes put on due to the following: When your brakes are normally used, think about how far the pedal travels. Usually it's about a quarter of the way to half right? your master cylinder is just what it is.. it is a master.. cylinder. keyword: cylinder. where am i getting.. you don't press the cylinder beyond more than half way all it's life under normal use.. the unused part of the master cylinder collects corrosion and contaminates on the cylinder lining. Then when you compress your calipers to fit new pads and/or bleed the brakes, your pedal then becomes capable of traveling 100% to the floor. This is when your master cylinder becomes damaged because the seal gets messed up. When you bleed brakes, or replace pads etc.. whenever you are capable of pressing the pedal to the floor you shouldn't do it because of this. instead, press the pedal down no more than 1/2 the way and let up and press again over and over till you feel pedal firm up.
Also if your rear shoes are not adjusted properly, your rear brakes can and will likely act up like you describe. Your e-brake applied the rear brakes mind you.. so you can also differentiate the problem to the front or rear by whether the noise happens when you use the e-brake. your shoes should be adjusted so that they are just rubbing lightly on the drum. Drums having a lip will make it harder to adjust properly. good luck

Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: Hydra747] #981165 01/17/10 07:59 AM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 27
S
ScottC Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Sounds like maybe your rear brakes aren't adjusted properly. If this is the case, I believe the rear drums on the Kia are self-adjusting, but i'm not sure. If so it should improve over time. Or it's possible air in the lines. Squeaking could be from the new brakes themselves, did you go cheap on the pads & rotors? Many times cheap aftermarket brakes tend to be squeaky. A little lube on the back of the pads, where they contact the caliper, will sometimes help.


Keepin It Awesome
Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: Hydra747] #981166 01/17/10 11:00 AM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 34
F
flyinwall Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
replace all the flexible brake hoses with better quality ones as original brake lines have the tendency to stretch when the brakes are applied thus making the pedal feel "spungy"
hope this helps as i had this sort of problem with my 80 series landcruiser and i replaced the hoses and the master cylinder and problem solvered

Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: ScottC] #981167 01/17/10 12:32 PM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 894
bombardj1 Offline
Rock Warrior
the rear brakes are not self-adjusting


2001 5sp. K&N stock filter 215/70/15
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Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: bombardj1] #981168 01/17/10 06:52 PM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 587
6
69442 Offline
Rock Warrior
Hydra, what did you conclude on this? Hopefully something simple cuz we all want you to move on to your new sneakers and pics <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


LIFT OR BUST! 2001 Sportage EX 4dr 4WD with 300,210 miles & counting .....
____o_o
l_l_l\___\___
l----[o]==[o]
l----==[--]==
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Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: Sportege_Panicmech] #981169 01/17/10 09:55 PM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,814
Hydra747 Offline OP
Roll Me Over
*
Quote
Need to pinpoint which corner the squeek is coming from and then inspect it.


From the pedal or around it, I think (like I hear the spring squeek) <BOOSTER or what>???!!!!??

Happens every time I push down on the pedal while the vehicle is in park---I could play a tune with my foot pedal....And while in motion it has very weak pedal pressure from the hydraulic aspect i think?

I can still drive and stop the vehicle of course....Just takes a little longer...The seals were changed and the lines were bled and that is it!

(5 months ago the breaks were changed). The symptoms are recent after the cylinder/seals and bleed job....but the noise is as recent as 2 months now....

Sorry if I can't explain it correctly.....
Lot's of info MEchanic.....Am I getting that you say master cylinder too??????

I will take it in on Monday....

Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: Hydra747] #981170 01/18/10 01:20 AM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 433
Sportege_Panicmech Offline
Mudrunner
Sound like your pedal just needs some greasing at the pivot point.. same as a squeaky door hinge. Sometimes new brakes need time to "mate" together before they really stick like they should, but this process usually only takes like 5-50 miles depending on use of the brakes in that time. You may need to purchase better quality pads as stated. If the friction material isn't sticky enough, then it requires you to press the pedal harder to acquire the same braking distance. It was also stated to upgrade your lines. While that will help some, that doesn't explain why you had a firm pedal before the brake job and then a sudden soft pedal after! Sometimes it takes more than 1 round of bleeding to get the air out. Just like a glass of soda, the air bubbles will stick to the inside lining of a caliper for a while still they are irritated over time to rise to the top at the bleeder. Tapping the caliper/wheel cylinder with the wrench your using for cracking the bleeder is enough to do this. Also, vacuum bleeding isn't always sufficient. This is when a tool is attached to the bleeder and vacuum is applied to suck the old fluid out. it speeds the process up and makes a clean job, but it's common that when you crack the bleeder open that air gets sucked in to the caliper through the threads of the bleeder and right back out through the bleeder tube into the vacuum tool, therefore isn't pulling the fluid out at a good rate. Not enough to disturb bubbles stuck inside the caliper anyway. This is why at last resort you use the 2-person method: one at the bleeder and one pressing the pedal.. this way you blow the bubbles out for sure. Sorry for novel, but I'm trying to bring up all possibilities to help solve this. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: Sportege_Panicmech] #981171 01/19/10 12:15 AM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,814
Hydra747 Offline OP
Roll Me Over
*
Thanks for all the input guys!
Went in this afternoon and they changed out the master cylinder ($30 part price -Advance Auto)...and employed the 2 person bleeding method. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

There is improvement but I can still put the peddle kinda far downward if I try!

I guess that the problem has been resolved.....mostly???

Better but not completely sound......oh well at least it still stops pretty well though!

The mystery has gotta be in the caliper area as some-one has mentioned?

Problem resolved for the most part and thanks all for your time <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Mikey

Re: QUICK brakes question? [Re: Hydra747] #981172 01/19/10 11:06 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,243
DamKia Offline
Kia Moderator
Emergency braking technique for Hydra747 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />


2002 Sporty , Ironman 2.5" spring, 2" body, 15 x 7 ROH wheels, K&N, 15 x 10.5 Simex Centipedes, Powerchip 91.

"Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level then beat you with experience!"
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