When I transfer case died, I went with 4.7 gears. At the time, I had every intention of getting in to rock crawling and doing some more serious trails such as Rubicon and Fordyce. Well, I played around on the Rubicon a few times and realized it wasn't for me. So, about half the time I regret going 4.7 and wish I had a 2nd case-not for a super low combo but for 'regular' stuff off road. I like the 4.7 enough to keep it and will eventually add a 2nd case to recover the lost gearing options. If I had to do it all over knowing what I know now, I would have stayed with the stock gearing. I use 4 wheel drive for exploring, getting to fishing holes and hopefully, soon, back to some 'fun' wheeling. For me, that means a 5 or a 6 on the 10 scale.

How about dual T cases with stock 2.88 gears.

The cost doesn't seem to be much more than the 4.7 gears.

The over all gearing isn't as low, but maybe it doesn't have to be.

Of course someone mentioned the 4.0 gears.

What do you think jeepeater?

I agree with Jeepeater. Dual cases with stock 2.28 gearing would be a better option for you. If I were to build my rig again, that is what I would do. I really miss my original low-range. But you would have to have your driveline lengths changed at a shop and swap out your X-member.

BTW, resize that photo. Too darn big. You can use "Microsoft Photo Editor".

30" and 4.10 = geared fine, no loss of RPM on the highway
Its a yota - it'll go...
Short rubber, no locker - gonna up the skill level depending on terrain if you wanna keep body crisp (NICE rig BTW <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> ) - - No winch and the above (even if you do have an ultimate rig) DEFIANTLY wheel with a buddy... Wont take much for the right mud hole to swallow..
Or heaven forbid
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />


1st dent hurts the most - all the others are easy <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!

The reality of it all.
Marlin Bolt In Crawler Box $539.00
New transfer cases mount ... BudBuilt ... 299.00
Shifting set up for forward shifting Trans. $100.00
CV joint for rear drive line. ??
Drive line work $100.00

This is the setup I believe best suits my needs, but the price is a lot more than I expected.

Any thought on this matter?

I started out with a single 4.70 case, within a year I had put duals in. Why, I missed the stock low range. If I were just starting out I would go with the dual cases with stock gears in both. That way down the road if you want lower gears, 4.70 the back case.

Gonna toss this out - others can chime in on this....

What about diff gears?? maybe able to go cheaper, if swapping toy diffs.... 4.30/4.88/4.56

Gears would be ideal for taller tires - I run 4.30 which is still close to the 4.10 (but i can tell a diff between the other rigs in group runnin 4.10)

I would suggest 4.56/4.88 as direct toyota swaps - could go 5.29 swapping ring and pinions...

Crawl Ratio's per Marlins site....

Not the same yeilds as Duals or 4.70's.... but..??....

And not sure how this would effect highway performance with a smaller tire (30") vs 33"+

On my 1500+ mile trips lower gears would be a problem.

The T-case mounts are pretty expensive.
What are others doing? Are you just biting the bullet and buying them or are you fabricating new ones?
Can one make a good one out of 2 old ones?
How about the CV joint off the front drive line?
Marlin wants me to add one to the back drive line What do you think? The 4,0 gears are starting to look better and better.

I ran dual cases for years with just the stock crossmember and a single mount.

You can swap the front CV for the back u-joint shaft, swap the flanges on the t-case, too as the bolt patterns are different.

I've seen the multi-pattern flanges.
Will that work? http://www.trail-gear.com/toy-flanges.html