The Skinny on the 3.4L motor swap.....WARNING...this is very long.

Alright....A couple of people have asked me to write this all up...so here it is. Feel free to come back with specific questions if ya got them....I'm sure I'm gonna miss something here....and many others have done this too....so feel free to fill in any gaps I've missed.

FIRST....This is just my experience...quote me on nothing, I accept no responsibility for any of this info if it's wrong. My swap was on a '93 4Runner with a '97 3.4L motor. Your truck and engine years will present different problems then mine did. From what I hear the only real difference is in the wiring....but like I said, I gaurentee nothing here.....So, you'll need to do some homework for your year truck and motor. And, I hear that the 22R trucks are totally different (and the 4-cyl tranny is too weak)

WHAT YOU'LL NEED: The engine package is kind of a pain to find. You will need the complete engine and pretty much everything attached to it. All the injectors, brackets, manifolds, belt driven accessories, all of the sensors and switches...Don't forget the two (2) O2 sensors, the MAF sensor if your motor has one, All the VSV's, the EVAP Box AND the engine wire harness, The ECU and the body side wire harness plugs that connect to the engine wire harness. And, the under dash ODB connector would be nice to grab too, if you need all that to work for emmissions testing (like I do). I also got the 3.4L airbox....I didn't use it, but I did scavenge some of the large rubber tubes from it. That whole package costed me $2,800 after taxes. I've heard of some guys finding the same package for as low as $1,500 on E-bay or from someone parting out a wrecked truck. Offroad Soltuions (ORS) in Arvada, Colorado (they specialize in this swap) say the average engine package for them is about $3,000. They also have a website with a techical article on this swap. The article has a pretty complete list of the engine parts's package you'll need. They also sells a conversion kit ...for about $1,700 I think...that has pretty much all the conversion items you'll need, but the exhaust. Their kit also contains a conversion wire harness which would greatly reduce your headaches.

ENGINE COMPARTMENT LAYOUT: They are different. All the components are on the oposite side...air box, battery, EVAP box...everything. They all have to be relocated. I just bought about 10' of steel stock (1" x 3/16" I think) and some 1/8" sheet metal and bent up brackets for the EVAP, Cruise control and fabricatged a battery tray. All the stuff fits in there, just have to be creative. For the Air Cleaner you can go with a K&N system or make your own. I bought a cheap aftermarket 3" air tube for a '99 honda civic and cut it to fit (same shape as the K&N air tube, but about 4" too long). Then I scavenged some of the rubber air tube from the 3.0 and 3.4L air boxes and connected it to the motor and then to the MAF sensor and then to the air cleaner. Plus I was able to get the T for the brake master cylinder in there with on of the scavenged rubber sections. There's a little more detail on the relocation stuff as I go.

ENGINE MOUNTS AND TRANNY: The engine bolts right up to the tranny. The 3.0L and 3.4L blocks are almost identical on the outside, so all the holes are in the same places. You need to use the 3.0L motor mounts though. The pedestral are at a different angle on the 3.4L vehicle frames. Obviously, you should buy new motor mounts if your's are worn out.

CLUTCH: Use the 3.4L clutch plate, pressure plate and pilot bearing AND a 3.0L throwout bearing (the one for your vehicle and tranny). Obviously, this is the best time to do a clutch job....so buying new parts is my suggestions. The guy at Offroad Solutions actually conned me out of a CenterForce clutch kit. They say the toyota clutch is actually better than the centerforce unless, you are racing the thing...take that for what's it's worth.

OIL PAN, BAFFLE AND PICKUP TUBE: the 3.4L tacoma and 4Runner pan, baffle and tube won't work, 'cause the front differential is on the passenger on the newer trucks. You will need to either buy these items for a 2WD T100 OR you can use your 3.0L pan, and tube and the 3.4L baffle, with some minor modification. You should be able to use the 3.0L baffle, but the way it gets sandwiched between the block and the pan bothered me. To modify, you will need to Cut a hole in the 3.4L baffle for the strut on the 3.0L pickup tube. And then, dimple the 3.0L pickup tube to clear one of the baffle plate bolt caps. You'll see it when you get there. After that, just bolt on the pan and your done there.

BELT DRIVE ACCESSORIES: You need all of the 3.4L accesories...P/S, A/C and alternator. My alternator is kind of close to my stearing column, next time I replace that belt I'm gong to try and find one that's about 1/2" shorter. The banjo bracket also needs to be shortened to clear the steering column....break out the blow torch and grinder....I actually used the A/C pump from my 3.0 engine and just swapped the pulley's. The are basically the same pump (on the outside anyways), but the upper manifold is different and I didn't want to buy custom A/C hoses to fit the newer fittings...plus the newer pump is for an R134 system and mine is an R12 system. Oddly, one of my original A/C lines is now too short to connect back up. I don't know why...but, I'll need to find a 3" entension to fix that.

RADIATOR AND COOLANT HOSES: The 3.4L radiator is more than adequate. I've heard it's even bigger than the stock 3.4L radiator. You will need to find all new radiator hoses though. I started by buying a stock 3.4L upper radiator hose for the car my motor came from. The upper and lower are the same on a 3.4L vehicle. As it turns out the upper hose I needed is about 2" longer and, the lower hose is about 2" shorter than the stock 3.4L hoses. Once I knew what I needed I went to a parts store and looked at a wall of radiator hoses untill I found a couple that worked. For the heater hoses I just bought some bulk heater hose and used that. The heater hoses bends are pretty minor so there is no kinking. Although, you only need to replace the ones that connect directly to the motor. The others will be the stock ones for your vehicle.

EXHAUST SYSTEM: The exhaust system is on the passenger side on a 3.4L motor (drivers on a 3.0L), and is too small for the 3.4L motor (in my opinion). You can either take it to a shop and say 'do it for me' or do you own. There are a few options here. You can use the 3.4L stock manifold, but will need to have a custom header pipe made to re-route the exhaust to the drivers side. Or you can use headers and a custom Y-pipe.
I did my own custom 2.5" exhuast, with Downey headers....kinda of a pain too. First I bought a bunch of 2.5" pipe (3-8' sticks), a Flowmaster muffle, high flow cat and an 8" flex pipe....and a bunch of 3 bolt flanges. I had the shop bend a tail pipe just like the original tail pipe for my truck. Then I had them take the remaining 2 sticks of pipe and put 1 - 90 bend in the middle of one stick and an 80 degree bend at one end. On the 3rd stick I had them put 2 - 90 degree bends at each end of the pipe. Then I went home and fired up the blowtorch and sawsall. You have to assemble (and in this order, front to back) the flex joint, an O2 snesor bung, the Cat, another O2 sensor bung (scavenged from a scrap yard), and then the muffler. And, you have to do this in the tightest possible space. Make sure your CAT is short...like 8 or 10 inches or you won't have enough room. You have to put all this stuff between the tail pipe and T-Case and you'll need to be about 12" from the T-case to get the Y-pipe in. Once I had all this done and hung under the truck, I installed the headers. Really not too hard, put them on from underneath. The Downey headers come with an EGR mount. This will interfere with the streering column (atleast it did on mine). I had to cut is off with a sawsall and weld on a cover plat over the hole. After the headers are done you can fabricate the Y-Pipe. You need to come off of both headers, along the tranny and T-case. For this I used the 3rd stick of pipe with the 2 - 90 degree bends at the ends I cut off one of the 90's leaving about a 12" tail. Using the longer piece for the drivers side, I cut the bent end to be flush with the collector on the header and the straigt end goes into the flex joint, along the tranny. For the passenger side I took the shorter 90 bend cut it flush with the header and the 12" tail parralell and straight along the tranny. Then I welded it to the header. I welded this one to the header 'cause the end of the header collector is about a 1/2" from the frame...no room for a flange there. With this welded you don't have that problem (and the header can still be removed easily from underneath). After that I took the 2nd stick of pipe and cut off the 80 degree bend, leaving about a 12" tail. Then I cut and ground this piece so that it would fit to the drivers side pipe, right behind the flex joint, with the 12" tail running to the passenger side about 3" from the T-case and Drive shaft. This forms the 'Y' and connects the two headers. Last I took the reminaing 90 degree bend and cut it to connect to the 2 pipe ends....the one from the passenger side header and the 80 degree bend coming from the drives side. Routing is (coming from the passenger header) along the tranny and T-case, then through the gap between the T-Case, torsion bar and frame (also the fuel filter is in there). Once everything was cut to fit and hung, I welded on all the flanges, tacked all the butt connections and then sleeved them. This pipe looks almost like the Y-pipe that NWOR makes for their 3.0L header system...go to their website they have a drawing of it. Took me 2 days on the floor of my garage. I should of had an exhaust shop do all that for me. Would have only costed about $300.

HOOD CLEARENCE: You will need a minimum 2" body lift OR a hood scoop. I went with a lift for several reasons. 1) it was cheaper....I bought a 2" lift kit, with all of the shifter, stearing, bumber, ect. brackets and extension for about $190 (from a guy on 4x4wire who's screen name I can't remember...just ask about Roger in ther....I do recommend his kit...went right in with no problems)...the hood scoop would have been over $200 with painting the hood. 2) the lift gives more clearence for the exhaust and ventalation for the engine and exhuast, Ventalation probably isn't that important, but the extra room for the exhaust was a nice benefit. 3) Gives me more room for bigger tires.

FUEL LINES: The flexable fuel line coming from the engine is on the drivers side (passenger side on 3.0L vehicle). You will need to relocate the steel line coming from the gas tank. I just bought a 5' piece of steel fuel line and replaced the section between the filter and the motor. You'll need a small tubing bender for this. You will need to extend the fuel return line to reach to the other side of the engine compartment too. Again, I just used bulk hose for this.

BRAKE LINES: On the passenger side frame rail, behind the wheel, there are several brake lines coming from the master cylinder (and rear anti-lock control box...if you have that) and going to the front and rear slave cylinders. You will probably have to relocate these as they passenger side header was about a 1/4" from these break lines. I bought a stick of brake line and some unions and routed them out and around the header along the frame. Then made a heat shield out of aluminum sheet and bolted it to the clutch slave cylinder. You will also want to extend that heat shield around the clutch slave cylinder....which is about a 1/4" from the header. Not much else you can do there.

STARTER: Just use the 3.0L starter. It's kind of close to my headers, but there is nothing I can do for that but insulate and heat shield the starter.

THE WIRING: This is what scares most people....I know it did me. Here's how it goes....

Dont' sweat the electrical stuff....it ain't that bad. I have always been horrible with electrical stuff....honestly, I've burned more wires, fried more components and electricuted myself so many times, I'm like a Pavlovian dog......I dont go near the stuff. But, this time I did my homework...and it payed off too.

There's a couple of key things you will need:

1) Good wire diagrams for both your vehicle and the vehicle the motor came from. And not a chiltons guide...you need the actual toyota wire diagrams. Go to a website called techinfo.com. It's a pay site, costs like $10 a day, but you can spend all day downloading all the actual toyota service manuals AND wire diagrams. Took me about 4 hours to download two complete service manuals on a phone line connection....that will be the best $10 you spend on this project.

2) The revelation that there are 3 types of wires on a car. Wires that carry a negative (-) charge, wires that carry a positive (+) charge and wires that carry a signal. I don't know why, but it took me forever to understand that. I knew it, but I never really thought about it. This is important becuase the new engine has things that your old truck doesn't...and you have to be able to figure out what kind of wire that component needs.

3) This one isn't necessary, but I found it helpled a lot......a Big ass piece of paper to map out your rewiring plan.

I made a 'Re-Pin diagram on a 36"x48" piece of paper. There are 2 plugs from the engine wire harness, and two from the body harness AND a 3rd plug needs to be spliced into the body harness and connects to the ECU...So, you really have 3 plugs from the body harness that need to be connected. So... I drew 3 vertical lines on the the lower half of the sheet of paper, each one representing a wire plug from the engine harness. Then I drew in evenly spaced tick marks along each line and numbered them. The tick marks represent all of the pin holes on the given plug....so if there were 26 pin holes in a particular plug, then I drew 26 evenly spaced tick marks along the vertical line that represented that plug...and then repeated that for the other two plugs.

Now....prior to all of this, I had spent many, many hours going over the wire diagrams. The wire diagrams tell you what color a wire is, what plug and what component the wire goes to AND they tell you what pin number that wire is in the plug. There are also drawings of the plugs showing the pin numbers in each of the pin holes....so with a good set of wire diagrams you can identify any give wire in any given plug.

So....I went back to the big ass piece of paper and wrote a description of each wire to the left of it's corrosponging tick mark...I did this for the engine first....The descriptions included the wire color, what components it came from, whether is was a ground, a power source (and if it was, whether is came from the battery directly or from the ignition swicth..or the ECU.....) or, if it was a signal wire (and if it was a signal wire, what kind of signal it carried and from what component). Then I grabed both my vehicle wire diagrams and the engine wire diagrams and just started going back and forth on each diagram until I found a wire coming from the body that either supplied the charge I wanted or went to the component I wanted. When I found that wire I wrote a description of it (that also included what plug and pin number it was). You need to be a little careful here, some components have multiple wires going to them. The wire diagrams have little descriptions of what type of wire it is (like batt, b+, FC...FP) That nomenclature is used on both diagrams so you can sort out which wire goes to which pin on the component....This is when that "3 types of wires" revelation comes into play.

There are also about....7 wires that you have to add to your body wire harness, about 20 that you need to extend several feet, and I think about 20 pins that have to be soldered on. Buy a new roll of solder, and a few feet of heat shrink plastic tube. I also had to re-do my battery wire harness 'cause it was too short to reach the relocated battery.

....anyway......that's how I solved that problem. I actually made 3 earlier attempts to 'map' out a solution that ended up being too confusing and useless. The method I described above was really easy to understand. Once I had the 'Re-Pin" diagram drawn up, it took about 4 or 5 hours to institute my plan. I put the ECU back in the stock location and rotated it 180 degrees, so didn't have to extend all of the wires going to the ECU plugs, had to make new mounting brackets for it, but it fits nice and snug and worked out pretty slick.

TACHOMETER: The 3.0L tach doesn't work. You;ll need to modify it. A guy on here who gave me plenty of good advice sent me a couple of pictures of the modification. It is really easy. You have to take out the gauge cluster, remove the tach and solder in a 10K ohm resister to a specific location on the back of the tach (on the circuit board)...shown in the pics . Hit me up later and I'll send you thos pics.

POWER STREERING HOSES: You'll need to use the 3.4L power steering pump...which works fine with the 3.0 power stearing box, but the hoses don't reach. For the high pressure hose, you'll need to have a custom one made. I bought mine from ORS...was actually much cheaper than having one custom made at a shop. ORS buys them in bulk, so they can sell them cheaper. For the return hose I just used some bulk hose fromt he parts store. You will loose the vacumn control unit for the power steering, but I haven't noticed anything being different without it.

OTHER STUFF: There are a few brackets and things you will need to make to move wires, hoses and fuel lines out of the way. Nothing real hard though. I think I even managed to just modify some of the orignal brackets to work. Make sure you swap in the 3.0L oil pressure sending unit. I didn't and I burned out my oil pressure gauge (that and forgeting to splice in one wire were my only mistakes)



So...That's how I did it all. I'm sure I left out a few things. I have a bunch of pics of all this too, I'm going to post them when I get them developed. And thanks to all those who answered all these questions for me as I went along.

That's all it took to do thew swap?

Maybe I'm missing something.....Could you please explain it all in a little more detail?

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Hey, I couldn't resist!

Thanks for taking the time to explain it all.

EXCELLENT!!!! 850 thumbs up man. I probably wont use it until about 150,000 miles <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> but I will definitly use it when I need it. Thanks for taking the time to type it up.

Thanks a lot,
Buddy

Wow! I actually read through that whole thing! I will definetly bookmark this and use it if my 3.0 ever dies!

One tiny mistake you made. When you talked about the radiator, you said "The 3.4L radiator is more than adequate. I've heard it's even bigger than the stock 3.4L radiator" I think you meant to say the 3.0L radiator is more than adequate!

You are hereby required to do a writeup and submit it to Joe or Harry....

Hey, I'm serious! Hope you took pix.

Yeah...I did mean the 3.0L radiator was bigger and better.

And what is a write up? I thought that's what this was?

So if I send you a release form can I use the above information to format into an article? Will you send me images and answer further questions from myself and the rest of the Toyota staff? I hope so, this information is very useful and I appreciate you sharing it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Articles on 4x4Wire though have a lot longer shelf life than messages on the bulletin board.

Before the pulleys rub the the number off of your serpintine belt... what is the number on the one that you currently run?

Should be like 89515, 15895, 895K5 or similar...

Once you figure out the number scheme, it's pretty stimple to find a shorter belt.

Yeah...no problem at all. I should have the pictures developed within a week or so...and I'll have my 're-pin' diagram scanned one of these days too ...tell me where to send it and I'll forward them on.

.......I finally gave it it's maiden voyage today....drove about 50 miles, round trip, to a friends....highways and city traffic. No problems at all!!!

My main concern was it actually catching on fire. With the headers so close to the clutch slave cylinder I would have bet that the slave cylinder boot whould have flamed up at some point....but I had no problems at all. The engine paint I put on there stank a bit, but I didn't see any smoke.

....as for performance.....I loved it!!!!...has to be the best modification ever ('cept maybe a small block). Plenty of power...didn't have to shift gears to pass.....Hell..I can actually pass other people now!!! The engine ran smooth and very nice.

My only complaint is the exhaust...I went with a FlowMaster muffler and it's a bit loud for my tastes. I prefer quiet sleeper type cars....Loud if for kids.

Still have to put back on all the body skirts and fender wells and stuff like that...but it's back on the road.

Now, it's on to the suspension....the thing is like driving a go cart at 60 mph...all over the place.

I have no idea....it's the stock one for that motor. It works...just leaves the alternator close to the steering column. Hasn't rubbed yet...so I'll live with it.

I do know the about the number scheme on belts...I'll deal with it when the time comes.

Thanks though.

CORunner93 thanks for doing all of this. It surely helps us all who wanted to do the swap. The engine that I got is also from a '97 but I need to hunt down the EVAP system, engine (injector) harness and ECU. I am hoping that I could just get that from car-part.com

I'll keep an eye on the rest of the pics and that re-pin diagram of yours. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Wow, nice little writeup. Yep, I think this one deserves permanent bandwidth over in the mods/tech archives. I know some guys here have done the swap, but this is the first go-about. Any other tweaker points from those of you who've mastered this?
Again, ver' nicely done. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

By the way.....I got my lift kit from 4Crawler. Very nice kit and no hassles, I do recommend his stuff.

Yeah, got his 1" BL. Very well made. Do you think 1" BL is sufficient or do I still need a hood scoop. Planning on supercharging it after the engine swap if I still have any $$$ left. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I'm pretty sure you will need a 2" lift. My hood closes to the intake manifold just like it did with the 3.0L in there....which is tight.

You can also go with a hood scoop too. I actually considered this....I'm not a big fan of cheesy mods to the body of a car (like hood scoops...if they aren't needed)...but I do like the look of the reverse scoops on the big Chevy's....where the scoop opening is facing the widshield. But, the 4Runner hood doesn't go al the way to the windshield...there's a valance panel in there...so I couldn't get that look anyways. Plus the lift has more benfits to it.

Anyone out there want a 3.0L motor...it's almost complete...Missing more than a few nuts and bolts and a couple of brackets though...but the block and heads haven't been disasembled at all.

It had 165K miles on it and got new bearings courtesy of the dealership at 130K...ran pretty good and did pass emissions in CO recently.

I'm giving it away....just come and get it out of my garage....I'll throw in a 3.4L exhaust manifold and a set of factory running boards for a 2nd gen 4Runner too.

It's free if you come and get it (I'm in Colorado, north of Denver)....and $300 plus Shipping if I have to box it and ship it anywhere.


Would make a good dispay piece in the living room....move fast...it will go quick....to a junk yard if no one wants it

No one is interested in a FREE 3.0L?..just come take it away

I'd take it if I wasn't half-way across the country from you... I'm sure I could find some use for it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />

paperweight <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Ditto on the 3.0L paperweight. I paid to have a 3.4L put in and the shop couldn’t dump the old motor for anything. Great write-up… lets me know I did the right thing letting someone with time and patience put the 3.4L in for me. Besides the wife says I gotta work on the house, not the truck when I’m home. So I wheel, climb and try to avoid hanging around the house too much. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Hey 93CoRunner, when you get the chance could you post the info on getting the tach to work? My swap has been done and running great for about 2 months now but I have no tach!
Thanks a ton!

I'll have to crack open my dash and take a picture of it first. which I'll need to do sooner or later to fix my oil pressure gauge.

It's easy to do. Just solder a 10K ohm resister onto the back of the tach circuit board just like the 3.4L tach has.

I've been conned into giving up all my pictures, diagrams and info for a technical article on here (4x4wire) so give it some time and it will all be posted in that article.

My oil pressure gauge doesnt work either, and I read somewhere that another guy's oil pressure gauge doesnt work after he did the swap. So im not sure whats up with the oil pressure gauge.
Thanks

You probably did the same thing I did.....left the 3.4L oil pressure sending unit in and burned out your oil pressure dash gauge. I was able to get mine to work a little....which is to say the needle moves a little, but that's about it.

The two sending units (and therefore gauges) work differently. The 3.4L sending unit will send a full 12 volts to the gauge and that will cause the needle to go all the way right and bend a thin metal strip in the gauge. Once it's bent the gauge is pretty much gone.

I've heard of a one guy who had some success in re-bending the strip, but I failed.

914Runner send me an email and I will send you a photo on how to do the tach mod tomorrow.
bcwhitehead1@comcast.net

Hey CO93Runner Good Job on the write up. The only thing that could be added is the dip stick relocation and pluging of the old port. Can't wait to see the article.
Brandon

Thanks...

yeah....I was sure I was going to miss something. Feel free to add anything else I missed. I'm really not going to be doing the write up. One the the 4x4wire editors is, my pics and info will be in it and a lot of the info from the little write up I did probably. Should be pretty cool.

Just wish it was here before I did my swap. Still fun to do.

.....and thanks for all your help

So do you have to swap out the 3.4L oil pressure sender for the 3.0L one?
Thanks

EDIT: went back and re-read the original post, and that answered my question.
Thanks

yes...use the 3.0L temp sender or you will burn out your gauge, like I did

luckly i got and extra gauge cluster with an oil pressure gauge so I will swap in the new gauge when i do the tach mod.
Thanks

914Runner,

Let me know how the tach works out. We need to hook up one of these days. Along whith the othe Vancouver/Portland wheelers!!

Brandon

OK, this is getting weird. First before I read this thread I thought my 3.4L oil pressure sender was bad so I got a new one from toyota. I did not put it in when I found out from another guy who did the swap that his gauge didnt work either so I did not want to waste my time until I figured out what was wrong. So now that I read this thread I went to toyota today to get a 3.0L sender, because I wanted to keep my 3.0L complete, fix and then sell it. When the toyota guy handed me the 3.0L sender I imediately noticed that the one he handed me was a one wire sender and the 3.4L sender that I swaped with him was a 2 wire sender. So I figured that I would go home and look at my 3.0L to help me figure out how to wire this sender. When I got home and looked at my 3.0L I noticed that the supposedly 3.0L sender that I got from toyota was different from the one on my 3.0L.
So what the heck do I do?
bwhitehead and COrunner93, do you know what the part number is for the sender you used?
Thanks!

I used my sender off my old 3.0 haven't had any problems. Acts just like a typical toy sender low at idle and normal under load. If you need any pics let me know. I will ask my parts guy at the dealer he is pretty good.

I can think of a few possibilities here, but they are just guesses at best......you're 3.4L might have had an idiot light switch and not a sender....or your 3.4L wiring called for 2 wires, instead of one, which would incorporate the ground wire in it's loop.....instead of using the motor as a ground. Like I said though, I'm just guessing. Hard to do anything else without being there and seeing it.

If you ran the 3.4L sender to your 3.0L gauge though you probably did the same thing I did and burned out your gauge. So don't be too disapointed if the gauge still doesn't work when you get the new sender hooked up.

I am pretty sure I fried my gauge <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> . I am just trying to find out if the toyota parts guy gave me the right sender and how to wir it up?
Thanks

Did this thread go any farther than this??? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

No, it didn't BUT, there were a few other related threads that also addressed the oil pan and accessories. We were hoping to get this put into the tech articles, but I might move this down into the Toy archives instead. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Well, I will throw in some info here as well, for when this gets archived. The 10K ohm tach mod recommended for the V6 tach also works great on the I4 tach... You do have to turn the calibration pot a tad so it will read accurately.

This would seem to suggest, for you SR5 cluster swap dudes who can't find just what you need, that an I4 tach will work on the 3.0 V6 as well, or vice-versa (same year application of course).

RE: oil pressure gauge, be sure to use WHATEVER year/model sender matches your gauge.

Very nice write up here, thank you for sharing.

Couple questions.

I have the '93 P.U. Planned on this a few years back & for next to nothing. I picked up the 3400, 5 speed trans/transfer case, both axles, drive shafts, ECM & all the wiring from a 96 4Runner. I've been saying, soon as something dies on this truck, I'm doing it. Well clutch went out(finally, can't kill a TOY) & that's close enough. I haven't compared drive trains yet. Since the new rear axle is the locker type I'm considering swapping it as well, or if just doing the entire package would be easier. Any input pro's & con's?

The '93 rear axles is stronger than the '96 Runner, so you should retain it, the locking diff from the Runner will fit in the truck axles with a little modification to the housing.

The wiring issue is a lot easier to do today than it was when the article was written, ORS supplies them now.
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-3-4l-conversion-harness-for-3vz-e-and-22r-e-vehicles/